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Old 03-25-2014, 08:47 AM
  #4441  
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Originally Posted by 79kmc
Hey guys i have just finished building my xray and im not sure if i have the steering wright, The screws on the ackerman are hitting the scews on the diff case,Just wondering if i have built it wrong or do just need to set the end points correctly so the screws are not hitting each other

Thanks in advance

FYI, check this and make sure you're not having the same issue. Scroll almost to the bottom, friend had the same issue and was fixed after rechecking his build of the steering rack.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...thread-72.html
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
how is it ? everyone was more than happy to post pic's and info but,nothing about how it works ...any info will help
Racing with it tonight but in my 2wd. If I had more time I would do a comparison with the ball vs gear BUT for now... I just want to run the sucka LOL
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:36 AM
  #4443  
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Try imageshack, skypath on ur phone , or photobucket to pist pix
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
how is it ? everyone was more than happy to post pic's and info but,nothing about how it works ...any info will help
OK. Right, here goes.

I've previously raced a Caster S10B and found it to be a good car. However...

...having built and driven the Xray all I can say is WOW!

The car builds beautifully, with no messing about fixing production errors or wrestling with ill fitting parts. I built it entirely as box standard apart from removing the daft plastic insert that sits under the rear gearbox. (I did have to modify the suspension hangers a little to get then to sit down snug on the chassis).

Driving it is interesting. With the Caster I was constantly concentrating on keeping the car under control. With the Xray you find yourself not having to do that. You just drive it. It goes where you want and it behaves entirely predictably. The effect of this is that you end up concentrating on your driving which is different from concentrating on driving the car.

You can push and push - finding better lines and getting a fantastic rhythm. Lap times come crashing down. At the start of my first meeting with the car I was turning 18 second laps consistently. By the end of the day I was into the 15's!

Astonishing piece of kit.

Jimmy

Another wee mod I have done (being a cheapskate Scotsman) is to cut a small strip of Coke can long enough to wrap around the CVD joints. This is then held in place by the existing plastic CVD covers. Eat your heart out Exotek!

Last edited by V6Jim; 03-25-2014 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:02 PM
  #4445  
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Originally Posted by EricW
FYI, check this and make sure you're not having the same issue. Scroll almost to the bottom, friend had the same issue and was fixed after rechecking his build of the steering rack.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...thread-72.html
I have just checked it and its ok
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:50 PM
  #4446  
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Has anyone tried the 2wd xb4 body on their 4wd? I have the stock body on my 4wd and I'm looking to try another body. Any suggestions?
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by J-milz
Has anyone tried the 2wd xb4 body on their 4wd? I have the stock body on my 4wd and I'm looking to try another body. Any suggestions?
I run the DMX body. You will have to lower your mounting posts to fit it properly. It looks great.
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:03 PM
  #4448  
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Thanks for all your help guy's I got it sorted my mate that built the steering rack put the post's upside down that's why the screws were hitting each other
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by elex300
I run the DMX body. You will have to lower your mounting posts to fit it properly. It looks great.

This. I removed the mounting posts completely since I dont use them ( velcro ), gives me the option to put them back on if i ever go back to the 4wd body. We have more than a couple XB4's at our track, and its something different than the original and Finnisher bodies.

Also, if you are running an aluminum servo horn, you may have to run the inside hole, and trim the outer hole off, as it may hit the body.
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Old 03-29-2014, 10:20 PM
  #4450  
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no ball diff feedback????
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Old 03-30-2014, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BentKa
Released yet...................?
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Old 03-30-2014, 12:43 PM
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Hi,

Would like to know what type of spurs everyone is running? Running 17.5 no timing, have been using associated 72 but have stripped out 2 in one meeting.

If this is the only option how does everyone bore out the center hole to make it a perfect fit. Every time I do it I always get it a little off center.

Thanks
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:14 PM
  #4453  
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
no ball diff feedback????
I haven't even been able to find them anywhere. Anyone know of somewhere that has them in stock?

Originally Posted by urismo21
Hi,

Would like to know what type of spurs everyone is running? Running 17.5 no timing, have been using associated 72 but have stripped out 2 in one meeting.

If this is the only option how does everyone bore out the center hole to make it a perfect fit. Every time I do it I always get it a little off center.

Thanks
I stripped out an XRay spur and all I had in a pinch was Associated, so i used a body reamer ( Dynamite double bladed ) and did little bits at a time from each side of the spur. Worked out just fine for me doing it this way, what method did you use to open the hole?
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:37 PM
  #4454  
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Default RW Spurs

RW Spurs

http://www.rwracing.co.uk/cars.html

Best to email Neil directly - he makes whisper quiet, high quality, delrin machined spur gears for the XB4 in 78T to 85T (~$18 each, shipped from the UK)
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:39 PM
  #4455  
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Clocked a BEAM today , pockets out lol
Broke just the frnt arm, quick swap , back in action,lost to my pit buds that i barely beat last week, think i gta use my 6.5 intead of 8.5. Gta be on that power , wheeling it, you suck Bruce M!!!!!
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