68LikesTamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
08-30-2006, 10:27 AM
#5163
I used titanium on the shock tower mounts and aluminum where I could, guess what I saved?
0.6 of an ounce
Steel stayed at the shock end mounts and the bumper. And that screw for the servo. I probably have maybe 10-12 steel screws left. Everything else is aluminum or titanium.
Looks pretty, but that's all, really.
0.6 of an ounce
Steel stayed at the shock end mounts and the bumper. And that screw for the servo. I probably have maybe 10-12 steel screws left. Everything else is aluminum or titanium.
Looks pretty, but that's all, really.
08-30-2006, 11:31 AM
#5165
Originally Posted by gibbous
I used titanium on the shock tower mounts and aluminum where I could, guess what I saved?
0.6 of an ounce
Steel stayed at the shock end mounts and the bumper. And that screw for the servo. I probably have maybe 10-12 steel screws left. Everything else is aluminum or titanium.
Looks pretty, but that's all, really.
0.6 of an ounce
Steel stayed at the shock end mounts and the bumper. And that screw for the servo. I probably have maybe 10-12 steel screws left. Everything else is aluminum or titanium.
Looks pretty, but that's all, really.
If that small savings, is it worth the money to invest into ti screws ?
Tks for all the respond.
08-30-2006, 12:11 PM
#5166
My whole car has Ti AND aluminum. Ti at the shock tower and aluminum everywhere else.
I haven't tried Ti everywhere. I think it's a costly. If the "feel" of one Ti screw versus one steel screw in your hand is any indication, you wouldn't save very much weight anyway going all Ti. But you do have the convenience of hex screws. To me, that's the real benefit - less stripping! However, you can get this for less money with aluminum. I went with Ti at the shock towers because I've snapped aluminum screws using them at the same spot on other cars.
Well, that, and like I said, it's prettier.
I haven't tried Ti everywhere. I think it's a costly. If the "feel" of one Ti screw versus one steel screw in your hand is any indication, you wouldn't save very much weight anyway going all Ti. But you do have the convenience of hex screws. To me, that's the real benefit - less stripping! However, you can get this for less money with aluminum. I went with Ti at the shock towers because I've snapped aluminum screws using them at the same spot on other cars.
Well, that, and like I said, it's prettier.
08-30-2006, 08:11 PM
#5167
Originally Posted by JayBee
I'm running-
1 XC- FRT/FRT
1 XD- FRT/REAR
1 XA- REAR/FRT
1 B- REAR/REAR
The white springs are not actually white, they're the limited edition 'Milky blue' ones. And in front I'm running Blues & in the rear Yellows. I run on high-bite indoor asphalt & the car is hooked up big time
The pics doesn't show the changes I made in the rear but I have the alum. diff in now & 2mm spacers under the outer camber link; that really planted the rear end.
1 XC- FRT/FRT
1 XD- FRT/REAR
1 XA- REAR/FRT
1 B- REAR/REAR
The white springs are not actually white, they're the limited edition 'Milky blue' ones. And in front I'm running Blues & in the rear Yellows. I run on high-bite indoor asphalt & the car is hooked up big time
The pics doesn't show the changes I made in the rear but I have the alum. diff in now & 2mm spacers under the outer camber link; that really planted the rear end.
What is the total sweep in the front and the total sweep in the rear. I dont think i have these blocks and i'm trying to see what i can achieve with the blocks I have.The biggest problem i'm having with the car is the rear end breaking loose on power. let me know what you suggest.
08-30-2006, 09:24 PM
#5169
Originally Posted by DOTMAN
check your front droop. You should be able to lift the front of your car a least 3mm without the front tires leaving the ground. That should allow enough weight to transfer to the back tires and keep the rearend planted on power
You learned
3mm is what you tried?
08-30-2006, 11:19 PM
#5170
Loose on power condition!
Alex,
On the blocks, it's 1/2 degree for each size difference. For example, say on the rear your using A block f/r and C block r/r . So it is 1.5 degrees. same with the "X" blocks say your using XC in the f/r and XA r/r you still have 1.5 degrees, just the narrower your wheel base with the X blocks!
I know Christian is running mod and if you go on power the tires tend to want to break loose. But, you can increase the front droop to transfer the weight to the back when you go on power. Keep increasing the front droop until you keep the backend from breaking free. The downside is you'll loose some on power steering but you can shim the blocks to bring back the steering. The MR set-up or the Josh Numan set-up will show you what shims to lay under the blocks. They are both a little different but they will both have the same results but at different levels. I've also noticed that especially in the rear, the shocks need to be tweak free, i.e. perfectly equal as possible from left to right. Shock length, rebound and spring length, have to be as identical as possible. If not then the shocks react at different rate from each other and will cause the tires to grip the track unevenly and have the car feel like it's loose on power. Ask Timmy, how he sets up his shocks to keep them equal as possible. He should be at the Tamiya track on Sat. What can I say?
The Teacher has trained the pupil well!!!
P.S. Hey Mark D.
Can you p.m. me your set-up from the finals? Can you also give me your brush, spring combo and gearing? Inquireing minds want to know!
On the blocks, it's 1/2 degree for each size difference. For example, say on the rear your using A block f/r and C block r/r . So it is 1.5 degrees. same with the "X" blocks say your using XC in the f/r and XA r/r you still have 1.5 degrees, just the narrower your wheel base with the X blocks!
I know Christian is running mod and if you go on power the tires tend to want to break loose. But, you can increase the front droop to transfer the weight to the back when you go on power. Keep increasing the front droop until you keep the backend from breaking free. The downside is you'll loose some on power steering but you can shim the blocks to bring back the steering. The MR set-up or the Josh Numan set-up will show you what shims to lay under the blocks. They are both a little different but they will both have the same results but at different levels. I've also noticed that especially in the rear, the shocks need to be tweak free, i.e. perfectly equal as possible from left to right. Shock length, rebound and spring length, have to be as identical as possible. If not then the shocks react at different rate from each other and will cause the tires to grip the track unevenly and have the car feel like it's loose on power. Ask Timmy, how he sets up his shocks to keep them equal as possible. He should be at the Tamiya track on Sat. What can I say?
The Teacher has trained the pupil well!!!
P.S. Hey Mark D.
Can you p.m. me your set-up from the finals? Can you also give me your brush, spring combo and gearing? Inquireing minds want to know!
08-30-2006, 11:34 PM
#5171
Originally Posted by maxepower
Alex,
On the blocks, it's 1/2 degree for each size difference. For example, say on the rear your using A block f/r and C block r/r . So it is 1.5 degrees.
On the blocks, it's 1/2 degree for each size difference. For example, say on the rear your using A block f/r and C block r/r . So it is 1.5 degrees.
if you have A - C suspension blocks.. this will only give you 1 deg of toe in. (without adding the built in toe on your rear hubs).
A-B = 0.5
B-C = 0.5
the graphite rear hubs are 1deg... and the newer Tamiya GT1 cars come with 0deg hubs.
check TryHard's website for the Toe Block spreadsheet for reference.
- Chris
08-31-2006, 10:27 AM
#5173
Tech Regular
Looking at going indoor racing during the UK's winter months and looking at the TA05 and just thought i would ask a question or two.
Im not looking at spend much on the chassis as i want to keep it fairly standard as im just racing for fun, do you have any hints and tips for racing on carpet with CS22 tyres ?
What parts should i get as spares just incase i do manage to crash it fairly hard ?
What sort of size 64dp size spurs am i looking at for the car ?
Thanks in advance.
Im not looking at spend much on the chassis as i want to keep it fairly standard as im just racing for fun, do you have any hints and tips for racing on carpet with CS22 tyres ?
What parts should i get as spares just incase i do manage to crash it fairly hard ?
What sort of size 64dp size spurs am i looking at for the car ?
Thanks in advance.
