Michal101

iTrader: (13)

Just thinking that the clicking could be coming from the spur rubbing the motor mount. I had the same problem after weeks of running the same spur gear without any noise until 2 weeks ago. I changed out the spur gear with a thin PRS gear and the problem went away.

I hope this helps, Mike

MartynD

I doubt the stock spur gear will rub the motor mount. I've used about 4 Xray spurs, and not one has come much closer than 1mm from the motor mount. Of course a slightly chewed up spur will be noisey.

The first time I changed my spur I found the screws holding the spur had come loose. Just something else to look at.

stinkypop

iTrader: (1)

mines doing the same, might try and find a longer pin

polesitter61

iTrader: (4)

I've only run my multi-diff locked, all four of the asphalt tracks I run on require braking a couple of spots. I've tried it with the locked one-way but won't work on the tracks around here. Even at Speedline (which has been a copy of the Reedy track for a while) you still must use some brake. Maybe if I played with it some more it may work at speedline but I'm an aggressive driver so I like the spool.

MartynD

You could try adding something like AE green slime in the slots in the gears. This will stop them moving. Though I doubt there is any harm in them shifting. I looked at mine and there is no sign of wear, I bet while the car is running they don't move at all.

Formula1fan

I had the same problem and had to take some materal off the RR gear. If you look at the inside of the motor mount you may see where the gear is rubbing.

scoobydo

iTrader: (1)

Any word on that 2mm chassis they used at the Reedy race?
Will it be modded to fit 3700's?

Mdoc

iTrader: (29)

if not, you can mod it any way you like....

scoobydo

iTrader: (1)

yeah, but you have to mod the plastic battery holders as well. I hear you have to dremel them up pretty good even after you mod the chassis.
I would rather it be good to go from the get go.

acutts

I am thinking of getting some ceramic diff balls for my rear diff. Will 3mmm be the right ones to get....!?

Anything I should do differently when I build it, different grease etc?

Thanks

centax error!

What part of hadling will I gain and loose if:

Scenario A:
lower the front hingepin to the lowest hole and shorter camberlink (last hole out on shock tower)?

Scenario B:
Add front kickup (one hole up) and longest camber link ( last hole in on the shock tower)

If I add kick up I will gain mid steering and some part on exit but will I lose some steering on entry? What's the first adjustment to make? add rear droop or soften the front?

Btw, base set up is the stock setup on the FK05 manual.

Thanks in advance.

CE

big_G

Thanks for the pointers on the clicking guys - I'll have a look at the spur/layshaft tonight.

acutts

Just checked the manual and see the diff balls are 2.4mm .... the only ones I can get in ceramic are 2.5mm ... do you think this will be a problem??

Formula1fan

I am going to pick some up also, but the manual says they are 2.4mm.

stinkypop

iTrader: (1)

A:your creating anti dive= reduced off power steering
:short link= Less roll= flater through corners/ less cornering grip
B:kickup= less off power st/ more on power st and generally more stable
:long link= more roll/ more cornering grip
to get back the off power steering you lost, reducing droop in the car(more on the gauge) , but if you are running soft springs chances are it will be too soft and the chassis may scrape due to the extra roll from the camber link change.

hope this helps
Matt