R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-02-2005, 05:07 PM   #2536
Tech Fanatic
 
Michal101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 985
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by big_G
I've got the same problem but only since last week
The 'clicking' is coming from the rear somewhere! but I cant find where.
I've checked all the pulleys, spur and pinion and I still cant find why

Just thinking that the clicking could be coming from the spur rubbing the motor mount. I had the same problem after weeks of running the same spur gear without any noise until 2 weeks ago. I changed out the spur gear with a thin PRS gear and the problem went away.

I hope this helps, Mike
__________________
(Team Driver)
R/C America
Team Tekin
ProMatch
Parma
Michal101 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 06:03 PM   #2537
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Oshawa, Ontario
Posts: 444
Default

I doubt the stock spur gear will rub the motor mount. I've used about 4 Xray spurs, and not one has come much closer than 1mm from the motor mount. Of course a slightly chewed up spur will be noisey.

The first time I changed my spur I found the screws holding the spur had come loose. Just something else to look at.
MartynD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 06:10 PM   #2538
Tech Adept
 
stinkypop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: South Australia
Posts: 229
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MartynD
Yup, its the layshaft... have mine out right now (am replacing spur) mine clicks as it rotates, not a big deal at all...

The pins holding the two gears are slightly smaller than the holes in the shaft and shorter than the slots in the gears, so they shift as the shaft turns. Under load I doubt they move at all.
mines doing the same, might try and find a longer pin
stinkypop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 06:21 PM   #2539
Tech Master
 
polesitter61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,009
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I've only run my multi-diff locked, all four of the asphalt tracks I run on require braking a couple of spots. I've tried it with the locked one-way but won't work on the tracks around here. Even at Speedline (which has been a copy of the Reedy track for a while) you still must use some brake. Maybe if I played with it some more it may work at speedline but I'm an aggressive driver so I like the spool.
__________________
Slickzero R/C products, check them out, very cheap shipping!!!
www.slickzero.com
polesitter61 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 07:32 PM   #2540
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Oshawa, Ontario
Posts: 444
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkypop
mines doing the same, might try and find a longer pin
You could try adding something like AE green slime in the slots in the gears. This will stop them moving. Though I doubt there is any harm in them shifting. I looked at mine and there is no sign of wear, I bet while the car is running they don't move at all.
MartynD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 09:28 PM   #2541
Tech Addict
 
Formula1fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Buckeye City!
Posts: 691
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michal101
Just thinking that the clicking could be coming from the spur rubbing the motor mount. I had the same problem after weeks of running the same spur gear without any noise until 2 weeks ago. I changed out the spur gear with a thin PRS gear and the problem went away.

I hope this helps, Mike
I had the same problem and had to take some materal off the RR gear. If you look at the inside of the motor mount you may see where the gear is rubbing.
Formula1fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 09:29 PM   #2542
Tech Master
 
scoobydo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bay Area San Jose
Posts: 1,501
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Any word on that 2mm chassis they used at the Reedy race?
Will it be modded to fit 3700's?
scoobydo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 09:34 PM   #2543
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego, Ca.
Posts: 1,024
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

if not, you can mod it any way you like....
Mdoc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 10:28 PM   #2544
Tech Master
 
scoobydo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bay Area San Jose
Posts: 1,501
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mdoc
if not, you can mod it any way you like....
yeah, but you have to mod the plastic battery holders as well. I hear you have to dremel them up pretty good even after you mod the chassis.
I would rather it be good to go from the get go.
scoobydo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2005, 01:50 AM   #2545
Tech Addict
 
acutts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: London, UK
Posts: 507
Default

I am thinking of getting some ceramic diff balls for my rear diff. Will 3mmm be the right ones to get....!?

Anything I should do differently when I build it, different grease etc?

Thanks
acutts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2005, 02:27 AM   #2546
Tech Master
 
centax error!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: " Burn Rubber, Not your wallet! "
Posts: 1,135
Talking Newbie questions

What part of hadling will I gain and loose if:

Scenario A:

lower the front hingepin to the lowest hole and shorter camberlink (last hole out on shock tower)?

Scenario B:
Add front kickup (one hole up) and longest camber link ( last hole in on the shock tower)

If I add kick up I will gain mid steering and some part on exit but will I lose some steering on entry? What's the first adjustment to make? add rear droop or soften the front?

Btw, base set up is the stock setup on the FK05 manual.

Thanks in advance.

CE
centax error! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2005, 02:59 AM   #2547
Tech Adept
 
big_G's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: NE England
Posts: 139
Default

Thanks for the pointers on the clicking guys - I'll have a look at the spur/layshaft tonight.
big_G is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2005, 03:11 AM   #2548
Tech Addict
 
acutts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: London, UK
Posts: 507
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
I am thinking of getting some ceramic diff balls for my rear diff. Will 3mmm be the right ones to get....!?

Anything I should do differently when I build it, different grease etc?

Thanks
Just checked the manual and see the diff balls are 2.4mm .... the only ones I can get in ceramic are 2.5mm ... do you think this will be a problem??
acutts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2005, 04:20 AM   #2549
Tech Addict
 
Formula1fan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Buckeye City!
Posts: 691
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by acutts
I am thinking of getting some ceramic diff balls for my rear diff. Will 3mmm be the right ones to get....!?

Anything I should do differently when I build it, different grease etc?

Thanks
I am going to pick some up also, but the manual says they are 2.4mm.
Formula1fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2005, 04:28 AM   #2550
Tech Adept
 
stinkypop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: South Australia
Posts: 229
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by centax error!
What part of hadling will I gain and loose if:

Scenario A:

lower the front hingepin to the lowest hole and shorter camberlink (last hole out on shock tower)?

Scenario B:
Add front kickup (one hole up) and longest camber link ( last hole in on the shock tower)

If I add kick up I will gain mid steering and some part on exit but will I lose some steering on entry? What's the first adjustment to make? add rear droop or soften the front?

Btw, base set up is the stock setup on the FK05 manual.

Thanks in advance.

CE
A:your creating anti dive= reduced off power steering
:short link= Less roll= flater through corners/ less cornering grip
B:kickup= less off power st/ more on power st and generally more stable
:long link= more roll/ more cornering grip
to get back the off power steering you lost, reducing droop in the car(more on the gauge) , but if you are running soft springs chances are it will be too soft and the chassis may scrape due to the extra roll from the camber link change.

hope this helps
Matt
stinkypop is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTB: NIB Xray T1FK05 & Xray Teflon coated aluminum Shock Body Adam.A Australia Wanted to Buy 4 01-02-2007 03:30 PM
WTB: Xray T1FK05 & Xray Teflon coated aluminum Shock Body Adam.A R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 1 12-30-2006 03:26 PM
Xray T1FK05 $100.00 Charles R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 04-25-2006 10:51 AM
F/S: Xray T1FK05 ewippler R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 12 12-09-2005 04:03 PM
WTB: Xray T1FK05 ewippler R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 05-06-2005 06:40 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:47 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net