Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Agreed, if you can find one, the V3.1 Stock Spec should do the job just fine in the sprint car, it can DEFINITELY handle those kinds of motors, & it's price(lest I heard) was about $100-115. I have several of them, & they're my absolute FAVORITE ESC right now(have one in each of my 2WD buggies & in my TRF417 touring car)....

RaisinBagel

iTrader: (18)

So I'm pretty new at this... what is different about the 3.1 "stock spec" esc and the plain 3.1. The plain is 120 amp while the stock spec is 100amp, but from a feature/programming standpoint is there a difference? What does stock mean? What does spec mean? Like I said I'm new...would any of that matter for a no motor limit sprint car?

mustangkillaz

iTrader: (5)

Had the same issue. I didn't get good service from them on a defective part. They definitely don't look out for the customer as they should. I'll likely never buy another hw product.

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Both speed controls will run both mod and stock (or blinky) the stock spec is missing just a couple of adjustments that the 120 amp model has. The case on the stock spec is plastic compared to the 3.1 pro 120 amp. The 120 amp pro will run a lower turn motor than the stock spec. I personally would go for the 120amp if you can find one, if you cant then look into the XR10 Pro. I know it cost $200.00 but it is super adjustable.

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Hello....yes you need that box to program your speed control. You can set all the options inclunding reverse. There are several pre set modes there is even a practice mode If I remember correctly.
If you order the box from Hobbywing USA you should have it within 3 days or so, the good thing is it will set all of the newer ground based speed controls.

1fastbird28

iTrader: (8)

Two questions.
First I have a sctpro hw esc on a tekin pro 4. Truck is very delayed when I throttle it. I mean a brushed traxxas set up reacts better! Even after the truck is rolling like coming off a corner, the power is very delayed. I've calibrated my throttle points. Have not played with punch or timing, could either of these help or is it time for new?
Second. I have the first version lcd 2 in 1 programmer. When I connected to the spot where the fan goes it just kept saying connecting to esc. After some research it seemed that I should update software. So I updated software on the programmer, guess what the programmer says now.... Lol when I connect to esc it tells me I need to update software, lol. There is only 3 selections of software I can put on it and only one qaulifies for my programmer. But I'm wondering if there is other software that I need to download?
Thanks guys!

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Try hooking the box and speed control up to the p.c. and update both. You will have to have a charged battery in the truck and you must turn it on. After you update then try raising your punch, anything above 2 should not delay. Also make sure your sensor wire is good and that its pluged in all tha way.

1fastbird28

iTrader: (8)

Thank you! I finally got it. On the website there are 3 different downloads and I wasnt sure which one, so just picked one first one, this time I picked the last one and it worked! Original owner had the throttle and motor rotation reversed, so whole time I've been using reverse for forward! Lol. Surprised it had brakes? So much better now!
On a side note, I think the motor was happier before! It was pretty old and worn. It didnt make it through the day! But man it was screeming before that! Just put my faith back into hw!

Would it still do some good to connect esc to box to computer? Or aint broke dont fix it?
Thanks for your response
Jay

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Jay....updates are always made to makes things better so I say yes update when you can.
Paul

Cain

iTrader: (294)

looking to pick up 2 more HW SCT Pros here but trying ot decide between the SCT Pro and the XR8 SCT Pro edition. These would be for my daughters Tekno 410.3 and EB48SL (on 4S for this one).

i don't need the bells and whistles for them, but i am looking at reliability. Are the XR8 SCTs more reliable than the previous model?

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

CAIN....
I would go with the XR8sct. The sctpro is good and reliable but the XR8sct has a better switch and handles the power of the new motors a little better. The footprint is a little bigger but it fits well in the Tekno cars. I know they are a more money but I really do think you are getting much more for your money.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

cool thanks for the info!

Keola

So I finally talked my son in to r/c, only problem is things have changed a lot since 1995, would like to get real time temp readings on nitro engine. I built a track at home and there are three straightaways just about back to back... to back and I'm a little worried that engine temp is rising to unhealthy levels in the thick of it. I feel like I'm not getting a good reading from temp gun mainly because engine has already begun to cool by the time I get the car at my feet.
Question 1: how accurate are these telemetry sytems, as far as speed and temp readings?
Question 2: are there any good ones in the $150-$200 range, if so I could use some help choosing.

Thanks for any help.

flamingtire

iTrader: (3)

You may have better luck posting this question on a nitro thread lol. But anyway, if the engine is rich enough there really isn't an "unsafe" temperature if everything else is in working order (brakes aren't dragging, airflow is good, air filter is clean, etc.). I hardly ever temp a nitro engine anymore unless I am suspect of an issue or breaking in a motor. I tune to the sound of the engine, the smoke, and the performance.

I have had nitro motors that loved being at 250 degrees (sometimes 300) and they ran/performed/lasted fine. I have others that "live" right around 200 degrees no matter what you do.

If you are going to spend $200 on telemetry... I would just recommend replacing the $200 motor instead once it wears out...

dbizzle5

Can anyone help? I hve an xr8 plus and need to cut the switch off. On the old 150a model i just joined the red and black together and used the white to touch on the red and black when i needed to re calibrate. However the xr8 has 2 red wires? How do i re wire it if i want to remove the switch? Cheers