Xray T3 2012
#1441
Hello Everyone ,
I'm using T3'12 playing 13.5t boosted , Front using Solid Axle.
My problem is my front left UJ is bending , it also happen to my friend.
I took out thinking to re-shape it , I though it impossible to re-shape it because it is HUDY SPRING STEEL , guess what I could re-shape it to make it straight again.
So has anyone have experience like me ? My car never had crash while playing. It suddenly happen , all my front arm , hinge pin are in perfect condition.
Any Idea ???
I'm using T3'12 playing 13.5t boosted , Front using Solid Axle.
My problem is my front left UJ is bending , it also happen to my friend.
I took out thinking to re-shape it , I though it impossible to re-shape it because it is HUDY SPRING STEEL , guess what I could re-shape it to make it straight again.
So has anyone have experience like me ? My car never had crash while playing. It suddenly happen , all my front arm , hinge pin are in perfect condition.
Any Idea ???
I had this too. I pushed the pin several times trough the drive axle till I can push it through with my fingers. After that the bending was gone.
#1442
Tech Regular
#1443
Hello Everyone ,
I'm using T3'12 playing 13.5t boosted , Front using Solid Axle.
My problem is my front left UJ is bending , it also happen to my friend.
I took out thinking to re-shape it , I though it impossible to re-shape it because it is HUDY SPRING STEEL , guess what I could re-shape it to make it straight again.
So has anyone have experience like me ? My car never had crash while playing. It suddenly happen , all my front arm , hinge pin are in perfect condition.
Any Idea ???
I'm using T3'12 playing 13.5t boosted , Front using Solid Axle.
My problem is my front left UJ is bending , it also happen to my friend.
I took out thinking to re-shape it , I though it impossible to re-shape it because it is HUDY SPRING STEEL , guess what I could re-shape it to make it straight again.
So has anyone have experience like me ? My car never had crash while playing. It suddenly happen , all my front arm , hinge pin are in perfect condition.
Any Idea ???
Make the sure the UJ is loose enough by rolling it slowly in your hands, the axle should always drop down no matter what position the driveshaft dogbone is in. It will stick if there is a a problem.
Skiddins
#1444
Tech Adept
Has anyone ever noticed that the front inner hingepin holders (302044) on the rear end are slightly touching the rear bulkheads?
Best regards,
David
Best regards,
David
#1445
cant wait to receive my T3! finally i join team xray
#1446
I had a number of issues getting my CVD's built freely, pin staying in place, grub screw staying locked down, etc. I tried notching my own cross pins, using the XRay pins, wasn't ever fully happy with any of the options.
So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.
I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.
I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
#1447
Tech Regular
I had a number of issues getting my CVD's built freely, pin staying in place, grub screw staying locked down, etc. I tried notching my own cross pins, using the XRay pins, wasn't ever fully happy with any of the options.
So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.
I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.
I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
#1448
I had a number of issues getting my CVD's built freely, pin staying in place, grub screw staying locked down, etc. I tried notching my own cross pins, using the XRay pins, wasn't ever fully happy with any of the options.
So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.
I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
So I've used a set of these for about a year now on my T3'11, with the un-notched pins, no grub screw. Fit great, no binding, and for disassembly to clean and re-grease, there's no concerns about whether you got the grub screw locked down so tight you won't be able to get it out.
I don't think they'll work for even the first joint on ECS shafts, but I still haven't found the need for the ECS, so I'm still running the standard axles. Another plus I've found to using them, if you're like me and use the longest camber link screws you can, the collar will keep the screw from buggaring up any of the CVD bits if it protrudes too far.
#1449
It fits over the stub axle joint, and is held in place against the inner hub bearing, covering the joint. IIRC, the CVD pins that come with the collars fit the XRay shafts as well.
Installation is very easy, remove the CVD by whatever method you normally do, remove the grub screw, clean and regrease the joint, slide the collar on, reinstall and marvel at how easy it is to free the CVD up better than it ever has been, with no chance of the drive pin gouging the hubs or locking up a wheel short of a catastrophic failure.
#1450
my mod for Xray T3 2012 original CVD shaft PIN,
i made flat spot area for my PIN, it work well. my PIN don't loose again.
in fact, i modify it since my T3 2010.
(most of Thailand Xray racer using this TIP.)
==================================================
or you can use this xray drive shaft PIN with FLAT SPOT
(it's option, so sorry... it don't include in T3 2012 kit box)
i made flat spot area for my PIN, it work well. my PIN don't loose again.
in fact, i modify it since my T3 2010.
(most of Thailand Xray racer using this TIP.)
==================================================
or you can use this xray drive shaft PIN with FLAT SPOT
(it's option, so sorry... it don't include in T3 2012 kit box)
Last edited by smith9turbo; 02-11-2012 at 07:01 PM.
#1451
For $10, a year ago, I have no more issues.
#1452
for T3 2010 this hex screw 3x2.5mm is the weak point. it's low material. (other hex screw size in the T3 2010 box is good material)
for T3 2012, i see 3x2.5 CVD hex screw is good material already.
T3 2010, CVD hex screw, look no good enough, since it is new.
T3 2010, CVD hex screw after run 8 packs.
seem screw's metal not hard enough. it easy to erode.
So, for my T3 2010 ... i must change to use tamiya hex screw 3x3mm instead. it work perfect for my over 1 year used.
but for my T3 2012 i still use CVD hex screw that is in T3 2012 KIT box. i think ... it good enough.
Last edited by smith9turbo; 02-11-2012 at 09:46 PM.
#1453
Build your CVD however you like.
The TOP Pin retainers work, have a perfectly smooth operating joint, and even helps contain the lubricant a bit.
... Without tightening, checking, loosening, re-tightening and checking and all that to make sure the joint is moving freely.
Some guys at the local track use the TOP retainers, some use grub screws, some use heat shrink.
The original concern was about CVD's not moving freely and causing bending, all I did was post the part I use that make that aspect fool proof.
The TOP Pin retainers work, have a perfectly smooth operating joint, and even helps contain the lubricant a bit.
... Without tightening, checking, loosening, re-tightening and checking and all that to make sure the joint is moving freely.
Some guys at the local track use the TOP retainers, some use grub screws, some use heat shrink.
The original concern was about CVD's not moving freely and causing bending, all I did was post the part I use that make that aspect fool proof.
#1454
CV swing shaft V2 from SPEC-R for xray T3. it look so good.
Last edited by smith9turbo; 02-11-2012 at 10:10 PM.