rageworks

iTrader: (47)

Foxxrocket, how much do those upgrades cost, say
if I bought them from one of the on-line shops and
not through flea-bay? Also what are the IGT and
GT2 selling for new? I'm trying to figure just how much
money a person has to spend to own a Koyosho
car that is somewhat bullet proof for the track.
Lets leave the price of a new engine and pipe
out for now. Could you please post the price for
each of the up-grade items?

carl jr

I think all of the cars work well with the right setup i have a DM1 spec and i love it and buy the way a DM1 spec has the track record at the Chaplin, CT track.

ADAN

iTrader: (8)

Go with the DM1, it is a far better car. The igt cars are to much money to get set up to race.The poor trans and motor are what kills the igt and igt2.I have had both igt cars and the DM1 is the better car.

vadn1

iTrader: (5)

IGT2 or DM-1, both cars are great, you can't go wrong with either. Both need a few changes to make them excellent cars.

Suggested upgrades out the box

IGT2 - Ipanema 2 speed transmission

DM-1 - YBslow OfnaDM1Billet Aluminum Front Hinge Pin Mount, for both front and rear

DM-1 Spec - same as DM-1 plus Max Velocity racing standup radio tray.

regg151

To make the IGT2 race ready and bullet proof you'll need:

Brake upgrade - Craddock brake disc about 15$ or

Kyosho SP pad and rotor about 40 -50$

2 speed tranny - Evolva gear mod cost around 50$ depends on what parts you may already have. or

Ipanema Black Hawk Tranny 150$ good deal comes with a boat load of goodies and CVD's for the center drive line. Similar to the evolva mod.

I have the GT1 and I'm running the craddock brakes and I find they work just as well as the SP Brake setup. I've also done the Evolva gear mod and it's bullet proof gathering all the parts and sorting it all out is a bit of a pain to get it all to work if I had to do it again I'd probably hold out for the Ipanema black hawk just to avoid having to order from several different online shops to track down all the parts needed.

Both GT's only need a few upgrades to be competitive as for the engines the GT2 has an engine that is comparable to the DM-1 and with that said almost all stock engines need to be replaced they are intended to get you running and having fun they are never marketed for racing so comparing engines is a moot point unless your only going to go bashing.

motomike122

iTrader: (1)

Hey thanks everyone..went with the GT2...I post a few days ago that when I opened the box and removed the car there was oil just behind the front bulkhead all over the chassi...I took the front diff case off and the oil is very thick,clear and almost like grease...Is there suppose to be a gasket under the front bulkhead to keep the grease in or does it just sit on the chassi with nothing between it. Mine had nothing between it and the chassi... ???Mike

Jspeed

wwoodruff

Your diff is leaking at the gasket between the ring gear and diff case or at the outdrives. It might be as simple as some loose screws holding the ring gear on, but most of your diff fluid probably leaked out. Get some diff oil(most are using 30 to 50,000 thousand weight on the front,) diff grease and rebuild it. Make sure you take it completely apart to check the o-rings that seal the outdrives. They need to have a good coating of grease, otherwise they will leak or worse, seize.
There is no gasket under the bulkheads. Sometimes offroad guys put tape or grease between the chassis and bulkhead to keep fine sand out. I doubt that is needed running on-road.

Jspeed

Dude, I'm running 120K fluid in my front these days on the bigger tracks, it's sick

chrisfrom619

I just recently converted a thunder tiger eb4-s2 to electric GTS that I bought as a roller form a friend. I finally finished the build the way I wanted it and start a Class of it's own here in San Diego California at Discount Hobby Wharehouse. As of right now there is only 2 of us in the class and if you are in San Diego area I'am inviting you to join us to promote this class.

Thanks
Christian

motomike122

iTrader: (1)

Hey thanks for the help. I'm only seeing the grease leaking out under the diff case, between the chassi and case. Seems to me there should be a seal or gaskit there. Hoe much diff grease do u recomend?

regg151

You want enough diff oil to just cover the cross pins for the bevel gears.
you don't want to overfill the diff as this will cause leaks as the oil expands from the heat generated from driving the RC.

You'll also want to lightly grease the ring and pinion gear with a heavy grease I use 1:1 wheel bearing grease just need a lil bit to coat the gears.

motomike122

iTrader: (1)

Any impute on this::: I'm only seeing the grease leaking out from under the diff case, between the chassi and case. Seems to me there should be a seal or gasket there.

ryanrc03

iTrader: (8)

No seal is needed between the case and chassis as the fluid should be contained inside the case its self. Check the 4 screws on the case and see if they are all tight. Also as mentioned above if you have a leak you have probably lost some fluid and would probably be worth a rebuild. I would go to your LHS and get some diff fluid. Depending on your driving style and application either 30000, 50000, or heavier (120,000) if you drive and break "hard."

regg151

you don't need a gasket for that area you can put one in if you want but you'll have to make it yourself.