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Tech Fanatic
I saw them, but didn't realize they would allow running smaller tires. Tower doesn't carry them so that eliminates the LHS from getting them......I will look online
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
I was wondering if the 4mm countersunk screw from Traxxas would work on the IRS new lower front arms. I heard a fellow racer do this to his Corally when he went to the IRS arms. I just want a general ideal if it will work before spending more than I need to.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
Slapmaster MS3
Guys, thought I would make a little noise about this past weekend and the results of the MS3. We had our first NWIC Series Race in Salem, OR at RC Plus & Hobbies. This was the first carpet race of the year for me and the first with 13.5. Mod has fallen off the map in the NW for 12th scale at least, so virtually no development time has taken place. Just getting a lot of track time on Friday's practice was going to be pretty critical tuning in the drag brake profile on the speedo, take into account the reactive castor block and just generally find where the r/o needed to be for 13.5.
I arrived with two cars to test, one with the CRC front end and the other with as Asc/IRS front end. Unfortunately the CRC equipped car had an older Speedo without all the drag brake options. There just was not enough mechanical steering available to make the car correct so it was set aside. The Asc/IRS car was very good in practice laying down the fastest times of the field. There were four other MS3's in the field and I kept an eye on them to make sure they were getting all the info needed. Steve Rubart had the CRC front end that got up to speed quickly showing that both front ends are viable. The set up I choose back at the shop turned out to be perfect, it only required two changes through out the weekend!
I used my LRCS (low roll center socket) on the Jack the Gripper track with a CEFX .062" t-bar for practice up to the 4th round. After the 3rd round, the car started feeling a little too planted in the rear requiring just a little too much tx wheel. I went to a standard socket for round 4 and the steering returned plus I pushed the tq time by two seconds. I also added a 1mm under the nose of the shock which increased on throttle steering a little so that I could come out of the corners stronger. I was very pleased by the end of the day as we put 3 cars on the top 3 spots on the grid.... not too shabby.
The triple mains started off with A1 being a little messy. I didn't use enough caution approaching cars and it cost me some time. Steve and I swapped leads about 3 times and he tripped the wire first. A2 I screwed my head on straight and used a lot more caution which paid off in a one lap victory. I repeated the same concept in A3 and got the same result taking the win overall. In the end, MS3's took TQ, Win, 2nd & 4th at our first 13.5 race of the year. The new Asc 12R5 also showed well taking 3rd & 5th.
This past August, I took a short team to the Summer Sizzler in Tacoma, Wa for this annual favorite. I have little experience on outdoor asphalt but the car proved easy to drive. We took TQ, 1st & 3rd with a 12R5 sandwiched in the middle.
I really messed up and didn't attend the IIC. I will try not to make that mistake again.
Right now the MS3 is a basic chassis conversion kit. I am looking at a deluxe conversion kit with a purpose brushless rear pod that you would add your front end and then slide in your axle. The instructions call out for a variety of parts from my favorite manufacturers. There is some fantastic equipment out there and I have chosen the parts that everyone should be pleased with.
More info can be found at www.slapmastertools.com
Brian
I arrived with two cars to test, one with the CRC front end and the other with as Asc/IRS front end. Unfortunately the CRC equipped car had an older Speedo without all the drag brake options. There just was not enough mechanical steering available to make the car correct so it was set aside. The Asc/IRS car was very good in practice laying down the fastest times of the field. There were four other MS3's in the field and I kept an eye on them to make sure they were getting all the info needed. Steve Rubart had the CRC front end that got up to speed quickly showing that both front ends are viable. The set up I choose back at the shop turned out to be perfect, it only required two changes through out the weekend!
I used my LRCS (low roll center socket) on the Jack the Gripper track with a CEFX .062" t-bar for practice up to the 4th round. After the 3rd round, the car started feeling a little too planted in the rear requiring just a little too much tx wheel. I went to a standard socket for round 4 and the steering returned plus I pushed the tq time by two seconds. I also added a 1mm under the nose of the shock which increased on throttle steering a little so that I could come out of the corners stronger. I was very pleased by the end of the day as we put 3 cars on the top 3 spots on the grid.... not too shabby.
The triple mains started off with A1 being a little messy. I didn't use enough caution approaching cars and it cost me some time. Steve and I swapped leads about 3 times and he tripped the wire first. A2 I screwed my head on straight and used a lot more caution which paid off in a one lap victory. I repeated the same concept in A3 and got the same result taking the win overall. In the end, MS3's took TQ, Win, 2nd & 4th at our first 13.5 race of the year. The new Asc 12R5 also showed well taking 3rd & 5th.
This past August, I took a short team to the Summer Sizzler in Tacoma, Wa for this annual favorite. I have little experience on outdoor asphalt but the car proved easy to drive. We took TQ, 1st & 3rd with a 12R5 sandwiched in the middle.
I really messed up and didn't attend the IIC. I will try not to make that mistake again.
Right now the MS3 is a basic chassis conversion kit. I am looking at a deluxe conversion kit with a purpose brushless rear pod that you would add your front end and then slide in your axle. The instructions call out for a variety of parts from my favorite manufacturers. There is some fantastic equipment out there and I have chosen the parts that everyone should be pleased with.
More info can be found at www.slapmastertools.com
Brian
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
The screw diameter isn't a problem. What you need to check is the depth of the head against the countersink on the underside of your chassis. My L4 takes nice countersunk screws with heads that drive with a 5/32 hex. I bought them at Ace Hardware. My CRC takes a shallower head that only comes in Phillips drive, so far as I know. Hobby shop item, only. If I use the hex head screws on the CRC they stick out the bottom. The countersink is too shallow. I don't know what the head is like on the Traxxas screws, or whether the Corally has a deep or shallow countersink on the chassis. Or your chassis, for that matter.
8-32 Thread Cutting Screw for a few pennies, and save your self the $10 for a tap when putting in the pilot threads on a brand new a-arm.
Thread cutting screws nomrally have a slight tapper on the outside diameter and the first few threads in that tapper have a slot(s) cut into them.
Tech Champion
To do it properly would require a jig and a mill to make sure you don't affect caster and/or camber as you remove material. This is NOT a job most racers have the appropriate equipment for.
Note that IRS may have discontinued the modified AE arms they were doing, but have done so because they have released their own arm they themselves designed and are molding. Instead of the marginal gain seen by modifying the AE arms (they only "lower" it 1/16") the new IRS lower arms go WAY lower. You can run the front tires right down to the rims if that's what you want to do.
These new arms are EXCELLENT pieces, but I STRONGLY recommend purchasing a 8-32 RH tap (about $5-6) and properly cutting threads into these rather than mashing screws through them to make threads. The design is very good but creates a stress riser where the upper arm mount is let into the lower arm. I've seen these arms crack along these risers when threaded with a screw...I've never seen one crack that has been properly tapped.
Scottrik
Note that IRS may have discontinued the modified AE arms they were doing, but have done so because they have released their own arm they themselves designed and are molding. Instead of the marginal gain seen by modifying the AE arms (they only "lower" it 1/16") the new IRS lower arms go WAY lower. You can run the front tires right down to the rims if that's what you want to do.
These new arms are EXCELLENT pieces, but I STRONGLY recommend purchasing a 8-32 RH tap (about $5-6) and properly cutting threads into these rather than mashing screws through them to make threads. The design is very good but creates a stress riser where the upper arm mount is let into the lower arm. I've seen these arms crack along these risers when threaded with a screw...I've never seen one crack that has been properly tapped.
Scottrik
The other great thing about these arms is that they are universal left and right. I found at least for me if I attach the caster block before threading the screw in then I don't have problems with the screw hole cracking.
I have noticed one issue with them that is irritating me though. They are not level left to right. The right side arm seems to be near .5mm lower then the left side. I'm not yet sure if it is the arm itself or the pivot ball placement in the arm. At first I thought it was the body moldings being off...but then I changed cars and the problem still existed. Once I figured out it was the arms I checked the 4 other cars running the IRS arms here and found they all had the same problem.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
If you head down to the local hardware store just pick up a
8-32 Thread Cutting Screw for a few pennies, and save your self the $10 for a tap when putting in the pilot threads on a brand new a-arm.
Thread cutting screws nomrally have a slight tapper on the outside diameter and the first few threads in that tapper have a slot(s) cut into them.
8-32 Thread Cutting Screw for a few pennies, and save your self the $10 for a tap when putting in the pilot threads on a brand new a-arm.
Thread cutting screws nomrally have a slight tapper on the outside diameter and the first few threads in that tapper have a slot(s) cut into them.
Then again, I guess you could grab the self-threading screw in a pair of Vise Grips...
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
The head angle is different. Metric heads are usually 90 degree heads and the 8-32 screws available are 82 degree and i have also seen AE gold screws that are 100 degree heads.
Guys, thought I would make a little noise about this past weekend and the results of the MS3. We had our first NWIC Series Race in Salem, OR at RC Plus & Hobbies. This was the first carpet race of the year for me and the first with 13.5. Mod has fallen off the map in the NW for 12th scale at least, so virtually no development time has taken place. Just getting a lot of track time on Friday's practice was going to be pretty critical tuning in the drag brake profile on the speedo, take into account the reactive castor block and just generally find where the r/o needed to be for 13.5.
I arrived with two cars to test, one with the CRC front end and the other with as Asc/IRS front end. Unfortunately the CRC equipped car had an older Speedo without all the drag brake options. There just was not enough mechanical steering available to make the car correct so it was set aside. The Asc/IRS car was very good in practice laying down the fastest times of the field. There were four other MS3's in the field and I kept an eye on them to make sure they were getting all the info needed. Steve Rubart had the CRC front end that got up to speed quickly showing that both front ends are viable. The set up I choose back at the shop turned out to be perfect, it only required two changes through out the weekend!
I used my LRCS (low roll center socket) on the Jack the Gripper track with a CEFX .062" t-bar for practice up to the 4th round. After the 3rd round, the car started feeling a little too planted in the rear requiring just a little too much tx wheel. I went to a standard socket for round 4 and the steering returned plus I pushed the tq time by two seconds. I also added a 1mm under the nose of the shock which increased on throttle steering a little so that I could come out of the corners stronger. I was very pleased by the end of the day as we put 3 cars on the top 3 spots on the grid.... not too shabby.
The triple mains started off with A1 being a little messy. I didn't use enough caution approaching cars and it cost me some time. Steve and I swapped leads about 3 times and he tripped the wire first. A2 I screwed my head on straight and used a lot more caution which paid off in a one lap victory. I repeated the same concept in A3 and got the same result taking the win overall. In the end, MS3's took TQ, Win, 2nd & 4th at our first 13.5 race of the year. The new Asc 12R5 also showed well taking 3rd & 5th.
This past August, I took a short team to the Summer Sizzler in Tacoma, Wa for this annual favorite. I have little experience on outdoor asphalt but the car proved easy to drive. We took TQ, 1st & 3rd with a 12R5 sandwiched in the middle.
I really messed up and didn't attend the IIC. I will try not to make that mistake again.
Right now the MS3 is a basic chassis conversion kit. I am looking at a deluxe conversion kit with a purpose brushless rear pod that you would add your front end and then slide in your axle. The instructions call out for a variety of parts from my favorite manufacturers. There is some fantastic equipment out there and I have chosen the parts that everyone should be pleased with.
More info can be found at www.slapmastertools.com
Brian
I arrived with two cars to test, one with the CRC front end and the other with as Asc/IRS front end. Unfortunately the CRC equipped car had an older Speedo without all the drag brake options. There just was not enough mechanical steering available to make the car correct so it was set aside. The Asc/IRS car was very good in practice laying down the fastest times of the field. There were four other MS3's in the field and I kept an eye on them to make sure they were getting all the info needed. Steve Rubart had the CRC front end that got up to speed quickly showing that both front ends are viable. The set up I choose back at the shop turned out to be perfect, it only required two changes through out the weekend!
I used my LRCS (low roll center socket) on the Jack the Gripper track with a CEFX .062" t-bar for practice up to the 4th round. After the 3rd round, the car started feeling a little too planted in the rear requiring just a little too much tx wheel. I went to a standard socket for round 4 and the steering returned plus I pushed the tq time by two seconds. I also added a 1mm under the nose of the shock which increased on throttle steering a little so that I could come out of the corners stronger. I was very pleased by the end of the day as we put 3 cars on the top 3 spots on the grid.... not too shabby.
The triple mains started off with A1 being a little messy. I didn't use enough caution approaching cars and it cost me some time. Steve and I swapped leads about 3 times and he tripped the wire first. A2 I screwed my head on straight and used a lot more caution which paid off in a one lap victory. I repeated the same concept in A3 and got the same result taking the win overall. In the end, MS3's took TQ, Win, 2nd & 4th at our first 13.5 race of the year. The new Asc 12R5 also showed well taking 3rd & 5th.
This past August, I took a short team to the Summer Sizzler in Tacoma, Wa for this annual favorite. I have little experience on outdoor asphalt but the car proved easy to drive. We took TQ, 1st & 3rd with a 12R5 sandwiched in the middle.
I really messed up and didn't attend the IIC. I will try not to make that mistake again.
Right now the MS3 is a basic chassis conversion kit. I am looking at a deluxe conversion kit with a purpose brushless rear pod that you would add your front end and then slide in your axle. The instructions call out for a variety of parts from my favorite manufacturers. There is some fantastic equipment out there and I have chosen the parts that everyone should be pleased with.
More info can be found at www.slapmastertools.com
Brian
oh, and what bearings are you guys running? can someone recommend some rubber sealed bearings?
Tech Adept
Guys, thought I would make a little noise about this past weekend and the results of the MS3. We had our first NWIC Series Race in Salem, OR at RC Plus & Hobbies. This was the first carpet race of the year for me and the first with 13.5. Mod has fallen off the map in the NW for 12th scale at least, so virtually no development time has taken place. Just getting a lot of track time on Friday's practice was going to be pretty critical tuning in the drag brake profile on the speedo, take into account the reactive castor block and just generally find where the r/o needed to be for 13.5.
I arrived with two cars to test, one with the CRC front end and the other with as Asc/IRS front end. Unfortunately the CRC equipped car had an older Speedo without all the drag brake options. There just was not enough mechanical steering available to make the car correct so it was set aside. The Asc/IRS car was very good in practice laying down the fastest times of the field. There were four other MS3's in the field and I kept an eye on them to make sure they were getting all the info needed. Steve Rubart had the CRC front end that got up to speed quickly showing that both front ends are viable. The set up I choose back at the shop turned out to be perfect, it only required two changes through out the weekend!
I used my LRCS (low roll center socket) on the Jack the Gripper track with a CEFX .062" t-bar for practice up to the 4th round. After the 3rd round, the car started feeling a little too planted in the rear requiring just a little too much tx wheel. I went to a standard socket for round 4 and the steering returned plus I pushed the tq time by two seconds. I also added a 1mm under the nose of the shock which increased on throttle steering a little so that I could come out of the corners stronger. I was very pleased by the end of the day as we put 3 cars on the top 3 spots on the grid.... not too shabby.
The triple mains started off with A1 being a little messy. I didn't use enough caution approaching cars and it cost me some time. Steve and I swapped leads about 3 times and he tripped the wire first. A2 I screwed my head on straight and used a lot more caution which paid off in a one lap victory. I repeated the same concept in A3 and got the same result taking the win overall. In the end, MS3's took TQ, Win, 2nd & 4th at our first 13.5 race of the year. The new Asc 12R5 also showed well taking 3rd & 5th.
This past August, I took a short team to the Summer Sizzler in Tacoma, Wa for this annual favorite. I have little experience on outdoor asphalt but the car proved easy to drive. We took TQ, 1st & 3rd with a 12R5 sandwiched in the middle.
I really messed up and didn't attend the IIC. I will try not to make that mistake again.
Right now the MS3 is a basic chassis conversion kit. I am looking at a deluxe conversion kit with a purpose brushless rear pod that you would add your front end and then slide in your axle. The instructions call out for a variety of parts from my favorite manufacturers. There is some fantastic equipment out there and I have chosen the parts that everyone should be pleased with.
More info can be found at www.slapmastertools.com
Brian
I arrived with two cars to test, one with the CRC front end and the other with as Asc/IRS front end. Unfortunately the CRC equipped car had an older Speedo without all the drag brake options. There just was not enough mechanical steering available to make the car correct so it was set aside. The Asc/IRS car was very good in practice laying down the fastest times of the field. There were four other MS3's in the field and I kept an eye on them to make sure they were getting all the info needed. Steve Rubart had the CRC front end that got up to speed quickly showing that both front ends are viable. The set up I choose back at the shop turned out to be perfect, it only required two changes through out the weekend!
I used my LRCS (low roll center socket) on the Jack the Gripper track with a CEFX .062" t-bar for practice up to the 4th round. After the 3rd round, the car started feeling a little too planted in the rear requiring just a little too much tx wheel. I went to a standard socket for round 4 and the steering returned plus I pushed the tq time by two seconds. I also added a 1mm under the nose of the shock which increased on throttle steering a little so that I could come out of the corners stronger. I was very pleased by the end of the day as we put 3 cars on the top 3 spots on the grid.... not too shabby.
The triple mains started off with A1 being a little messy. I didn't use enough caution approaching cars and it cost me some time. Steve and I swapped leads about 3 times and he tripped the wire first. A2 I screwed my head on straight and used a lot more caution which paid off in a one lap victory. I repeated the same concept in A3 and got the same result taking the win overall. In the end, MS3's took TQ, Win, 2nd & 4th at our first 13.5 race of the year. The new Asc 12R5 also showed well taking 3rd & 5th.
This past August, I took a short team to the Summer Sizzler in Tacoma, Wa for this annual favorite. I have little experience on outdoor asphalt but the car proved easy to drive. We took TQ, 1st & 3rd with a 12R5 sandwiched in the middle.
I really messed up and didn't attend the IIC. I will try not to make that mistake again.
Right now the MS3 is a basic chassis conversion kit. I am looking at a deluxe conversion kit with a purpose brushless rear pod that you would add your front end and then slide in your axle. The instructions call out for a variety of parts from my favorite manufacturers. There is some fantastic equipment out there and I have chosen the parts that everyone should be pleased with.
More info can be found at www.slapmastertools.com
Brian
Tech Elite
iTrader: (49)
The screw diameter isn't a problem. What you need to check is the depth of the head against the countersink on the underside of your chassis. My L4 takes nice countersunk screws with heads that drive with a 5/32 hex. I bought them at Ace Hardware. My CRC takes a shallower head that only comes in Phillips drive, so far as I know. Hobby shop item, only. If I use the hex head screws on the CRC they stick out the bottom. The countersink is too shallow. I don't know what the head is like on the Traxxas screws, or whether the Corally has a deep or shallow countersink on the chassis. Or your chassis, for that matter.
I have had a rev 4.5, a rev 5, and an 12L4. I bought some stainless steel 8-32 X 5/8ths screws. They had a 5/32nds hex head that was on the thick side. The 12L4 had a rather deep countersink, so everything sat flush. The rev's on the other hand have shallow countersinks in comparison. The solution?
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?
Lunsford's titanium screw heads are shallow enough to even sit below the chassis on the rev 5. And theyre available in several lengths. the 5/8ths are perfect for 12th scale and the 7/8ths will work well with the taller arm stack on the WGT cars (the speedmerchant ones at least)
Word to the wise . . .on the rev's you DEFINITELY don't want to run an aluminum screw into the CF in the front end.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
sweet, i should really get down to 360 sometime, but i have a lot of stuff going on now. Maybe ill be there winter time on some saturdays.
ft 12scale
Last edited by BILL.D; 10-17-2008 at 07:44 AM.