During first set up an 4-5 tanks of nitro.

It was towards the end of my first meet that mine were biting well, and I did a small session of just hard stops to bed mine in, did you clean all the parts down with meths as well?, my disk was covered in oil out of the packet, which will likely either contaminate the pads or slow down the bed in.

1. Open air filter, ..... you need to see the carburator air opening position during neutral and full throttle.

2. check and re-adjust throttle linkage during this position : full throttle, neutral, full brake. ( use your common sense )

3. check and re-adjust brake linkage during this position : full throttle, neutral, full brake.

4. check and re-adjust EPA through your transmitter.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ugen-mtx5.html

New Option Parts

Well, i have had 2 races and in booth races in the final run the diff has been broken. i hope that the new diff parts will arrive soon. but was i also noticed, that the car has always a little bit understeer on throttle. have you mentioned it also?

1.what type colour of spring that you using?
2.type of number for diff oil and shock oil ?
3.how much toe in at rear?
4.did you using the accelerator function on your remote?

just want to know..my car are very stable right now..when i throttle don't have any understeer on my car..hope i can help you soon..

best regds..

What you mean? EXP?

if you are using futaba 4pk controller,you have the accelerator functions,means that if you pull the trigger to some point,you can open the air intake (curberator) of your engine more faster,that's depend to your setting,more higher you set,more faster it's open..i don't know about other controller..maybe EXP is the same things with futaba..what i notice is EXP stands for throttle expose if i don't mistaken....if you set to high your car become unstable while exit from corners..other wise it's depend to your driving style for sure....this is just my opinion..

best regds.

perhaps 2 additionals 5x15x0.1 shim next time will help as it has with some racers

I used the standard springs, with 500 oil, 3 degree toe in in the rear and i have no accelerator function.

i also tried softer springs in the front, but the effect was not much better. i also changed the front roll-center but was not really better.

diff oil i used 200.000 front, 80.000 rear

Wassup guys!

Plastic diff gears? ftw! That's what happens when Swauger isn't testing for Mugen. I bet he could shred those in one tank!

Not enough turn in? What body are you guys running?

Just remember...

The pros don't have problems like some of us mere mortals. They can easily identify and work around any issues on a new car and make it perform. What we see as a design/manufacturing flaw is nothing more than a minor inconvinience for the pros. They see it, fix it (by any means necessary) and the problem disappears. We end up struggling with it and eventually one of us figures it out - or a pro takes pitty on us and gives us the fix.

It's too bad that nitro has declined as much as it has in the U.S. I miss the "old crew" that did all the grunt work to figure things out make our lives easier.

Try reducing the front droop, i.e. go from 1 to 2mm downstops.
Softer front springs won't change a lot on on throttle understeer.
If the track is smooth enough you can also try harder rear springs or a stiffer rear anti roll bar.

ok..my suggestion you should try this setting;

1.use all 1.6 purple spring front and rear
2.use 400-450 shock oil
3.try two hole shock piston in front suspension (same with the rear)
4.make 1.5mm down stop at front,the rear is 0mm which is like free play
5.front roll bar make it flat to end
6.upper arm position is all down,if your car have a little bit shaky,change to center hole.
7.all purple spring make sure it's free roll(you can play cw and ccw) means not to tied end to end
8.rear toe is ok for 3 degree in,but your car become slow in high speed line,better in and out tied corner.front toe try 1.5 out

your diff is ok if your are aggressive driving style.

best regds.

2.0mm