You need to shims the gear, shim it at behind the big gears.

Try to close mesh.

If it feels gritty ( clicking ), back off one or two shims.

there are two ways..did you mean behind big gear or below the pin..the factory give 1 shims..

mtx5 wins 3 hour mr toys ran 2 cars 3 hours 500 0d laps cars finished in one piece i now it was more laps but i am getting old and have forgoten
greg

hello!

Can you please let me know the thickness of the carbon radio plate?
2.0 or 2,5 mm??

Thanks

I have had issues with both the two-speed gears and the diff gears. Both have been resolved. The two-speed stripping was due to improper clutch build (see prg's post). I noticed that the clutch spring nut backed out, destroyed the shims, and went on to cause my gear to strip. I talked to Drew (Xray mechanic) and he advised me to file down the edges of my spring nut and carefully rebuild my clutch, and for good measure added a little Loctite on the spring nut. Problem solved.

As for the diff gears, I tried the Shepherd V10 gears. I shimmed them until I got minimum back lash. The final adjustment felt slightly notchy, but good.
after running a few tanks through the car, the diff broke in perfectly! Took it apart when I got home, changed the fluid and inspected it. Problem solved.

finally did finish the assembly
with an os engine fit on the centax i did notice that i had a total of 1mm of gap, knowing this i had to use 0.5mm shims to have a 0.5gap noticed that the pinions were not 100% aligned on the spurs so i reassemble the centax but this time i use a 7x10x0.5mm shim behind the cone and with it i had a perfect fit and a 0.5mm gap for the centax! the spring nut is ver close to the edge but nothing a little loctitec blue cant fix, centax very snappy and responsive and works great i must say!
finally for the 2 speed shoes, i space them til they wont fit on the 2 speed hub and from then backed up a quarter, the transition to 2speed worked flawless! and no issues at all!
very impressed with how free the drivetrain is and the feeling of the car like on rails and lots of steering! 3 tanks were needed to break in the brakes and next time 75 grams will be added as was underweght courtesy of the life rx pack titanium set screws and titanium pillow balls all items carried over from the mtx4

will inspect the diff and add .2mm total shims on each diff and see how long will they last in race conditions!

behind the pin you dumbass.

Same diff problem with kyosho R4... Is fasion i think... All new cars must strip diff gears!

thank you,,u are so nice guy..thanks for helping me..

mugen seiki announcement new steel diff gears http://mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm

and for those the steel pin is a must, great now i wont to check every other race how is the composite gears holding up! ill use those for special races!

I'm in the process of fitting my low profile Savox servos, not all that hard really, you remove the outer section of the wire grommet, and the wires on the Savox will fold flat against the cases, then they just slide right in the MTX5 mounts without any other work needed.

Only real issue is the Savox come with stupid long wires, I'll need to half the length, so time to break out the soldering iron tomorrow, must get a proper quality crimper one day...

found it from youtube, the footage that Fukuda won the 2011 all Japane Champion 4 in a rows debuting with the MTX5
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d87tf...eature=related

i am still trying to find the 1/2 with hara's.

Anyone know of a solid front diff or spool for the MTX5?

anyone knows? Thanks again