5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-06-2011 | 07:10 AM
Trackstar o-rings. Some guys use two, some use one and one stock X-ring. Some guys just unscrew the cartridge 1/16 to 1/18 of a turn. Too much squish on the stock rings and silicone makes them expand over time. The stock shock boots also cause a bind because theyre so tight to the shaft and cant breathe during compression and rebound. You can see them expand like a balloon during compression. You can remove the boots completely or use a hole punch like we do to our tires or you can just cut a slit in the boots up high toward the cartridge. They should be butter smooth after that.
11-06-2011 | 07:33 AM
Trackstar was testing some higher durometer o rings, but then it went quiet. Dunno if it didn't work or what.
11-06-2011 | 07:58 AM
i will go into details later but i am using Viton "X" rings on the dif cases with no flat washer and green slime. made it all last week through 4 days of racing and no leakage. i also eliminated the spider gear washers too, this combo freed up the difs and they are even smoother than before.
11-06-2011 | 08:29 AM
Thought I fixed my rear diff problem. I guess I didn't.
Went racing Sat., my rear diff had previously been making a clicking sound, while on power and turning.
I replaced all the internal gears and took it back out. SOunded good for a while and then started clicking again.
Pulled it apart and I can see the very edge of the sun gears is polished. I also noticed the lip at the top of the sun gear is actually touching the cross shaft. I also noticed the shelfs inside the diff are a little compressed. Probably effecting the placement of the diff shafts.
What the heck can I do? I tried some thicker shims on the cross shafts, but they're too thick. Can I use 1 thin and 1 thick on the same cross shaft?
Everything in the diff is new except the outdrives.
Really starting to bother me.
The truck ran well though, I just hate having a truck that sounds bad. I'd rather it look like hell and sound good then the other way around.
Went racing Sat., my rear diff had previously been making a clicking sound, while on power and turning.
I replaced all the internal gears and took it back out. SOunded good for a while and then started clicking again.
Pulled it apart and I can see the very edge of the sun gears is polished. I also noticed the lip at the top of the sun gear is actually touching the cross shaft. I also noticed the shelfs inside the diff are a little compressed. Probably effecting the placement of the diff shafts.
What the heck can I do? I tried some thicker shims on the cross shafts, but they're too thick. Can I use 1 thin and 1 thick on the same cross shaft?
Everything in the diff is new except the outdrives.
Really starting to bother me.
The truck ran well though, I just hate having a truck that sounds bad. I'd rather it look like hell and sound good then the other way around.
11-06-2011 | 08:31 AM
11-06-2011 | 08:36 AM
Yeah, I changed em'
11-06-2011 | 08:38 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
I had a similar experience without the water. I had cogging and replaced the stator on the motor and it was fine. I would not expect the ESC to bet the issue. Now why the motor Stator had issue I don't know. I have been running the motor for a whole race series. Can you identify any high impact or high temp condition? I ran mine in a Jammin SCRT10 and for sure made a lot of chassis slaps and high power hits. Temps were always good. So I'm confident that the Tech service guys will help you out.
11-06-2011 | 09:14 AM
the way to check it is take the gear cover off and put the truck on the ground and hold it in place and looking at the motor shaft under power it will look like it shudders in place
cause of this is over gearing it and causing too much heat on the rotor and brakes down the epoxy or trying to jump ur house
11-06-2011 | 09:38 AM
mud gaurds
Nice mud gaurds .How did you build em or where did they come from. I was thinking about some type of mudgaurd for the front to place behind front wheelss to keep the dirt out of inside of chaisis, I run indoor clayand shock boots so dont see a whole lot of dirt kicked up , but for you outdoor crews those look like the ticket
11-06-2011 | 09:42 AM
shock issues
Hey evil ,
I had same friction and leakage isues , read my post a bit back about clearancing the cartridge caps , and honing out the stock x rings a bit. The x rings will loosen up as you run them and become much smoother as you go , but i dont have patients to wait. Lots of greem slime , cartridges in the correct direction and you should be good to go. I also went to a softer bladder and it seemed to eliminate the big hit blow outs i got from the og firm as plastic bladders.
j
I had same friction and leakage isues , read my post a bit back about clearancing the cartridge caps , and honing out the stock x rings a bit. The x rings will loosen up as you run them and become much smoother as you go , but i dont have patients to wait. Lots of greem slime , cartridges in the correct direction and you should be good to go. I also went to a softer bladder and it seemed to eliminate the big hit blow outs i got from the og firm as plastic bladders.
j
11-06-2011 | 09:43 AM
RCShox Mutipoint ackerman bars! These are some preliminary pix of the ACK bar i will be testing this week. It is ballbearing supported and gives you three options for mounting the tie rods!
If testing goes well i will begin pre-orders at the end of this week.
If testing goes well i will begin pre-orders at the end of this week.
Last edited by MantisWorx; 11-06-2011 at 09:55 AM.