5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
10-30-2011 | 10:17 PM
#9841
Ok a question for you guys and the MTK slipper basket, anyone have any issues with the outer slipper plate rubbing on the outside edges of the aluminum basket due to misalignment? I have the vented slipper outer plate and once all assembled the slipper disk it's not centered within the MTK basket and looks like it will rub on the basket during use (haven't run the truck yet).
I have a brand new spur gear that I have tried to flip over and also clock to different positions when assembling the slipper assembly with the basket and it makes no difference. The outer slipper disk it's not centered over the adjoining pad and basket.
Oddly the spur, slipper disk and basket all appear to run true when spun by hand.
You can see the overlapping of the slipper disk over the basket edges in one photo, then I rotated the assembly 180° and took another photo to show areas the slipper it's located well within the basket edges.
Is this normal for everyone else running slipper setup or should I be concerned?
I have a brand new spur gear that I have tried to flip over and also clock to different positions when assembling the slipper assembly with the basket and it makes no difference. The outer slipper disk it's not centered over the adjoining pad and basket.
Oddly the spur, slipper disk and basket all appear to run true when spun by hand.
You can see the overlapping of the slipper disk over the basket edges in one photo, then I rotated the assembly 180° and took another photo to show areas the slipper it's located well within the basket edges.
Is this normal for everyone else running slipper setup or should I be concerned?
10-30-2011 | 10:23 PM
#9843
10-30-2011 | 10:53 PM
#9845
I'm currently setting up my new truck and did the same test after reading about it here, couldn't believe my eyes at how easy it was to get excessive belt slack from such little pressure on the shock towers. 
I have a B44.1 saddle pack setup on the truck and I think the chassis flex is a lot worse without the stick pack brace/bracket. It flexes so easily that I wouldn't even run the truck until I made a chassis brace, which I did today. Looks like a chassis brace it's going to be mandatory for a saddle pack setup IMO.
I also noticed (as mentioned above) excessive belt tension really torques on the Topshaft and slightly twists the transmission, which in turn will affect gear mesh. I would be surprised if Associated does not include a chassis brace on a Factory Team kit in the future. This truck really needs one IMO.
I made the brace from some solid aluminum rod I had on hand and Rocket City ball end that are commonly used to make Clodbuster tubular suspension links. The hardest part was drilling and tapping the ends for the 6/32 studs to go into.
I had to keep the link level and up high enough so I can remove to saddled packs without removing the brace. I was concerned with the rear attachment point possibly breaking so I reinforced it with a large colored washer underneath and a locknut to spread out the load on the plastic over the motor. With the Tekin Pro 4 540 motor there is plenty of room above it to allow for some type of reinforcement piece add you can see in the last photo.
Now the chassis with saddle packs passes the chassis flex test Craig was trying above.
I have a B44.1 saddle pack setup on the truck and I think the chassis flex is a lot worse without the stick pack brace/bracket. It flexes so easily that I wouldn't even run the truck until I made a chassis brace, which I did today. Looks like a chassis brace it's going to be mandatory for a saddle pack setup IMO.
I also noticed (as mentioned above) excessive belt tension really torques on the Topshaft and slightly twists the transmission, which in turn will affect gear mesh. I would be surprised if Associated does not include a chassis brace on a Factory Team kit in the future. This truck really needs one IMO.
I made the brace from some solid aluminum rod I had on hand and Rocket City ball end that are commonly used to make Clodbuster tubular suspension links. The hardest part was drilling and tapping the ends for the 6/32 studs to go into.
I had to keep the link level and up high enough so I can remove to saddled packs without removing the brace. I was concerned with the rear attachment point possibly breaking so I reinforced it with a large colored washer underneath and a locknut to spread out the load on the plastic over the motor. With the Tekin Pro 4 540 motor there is plenty of room above it to allow for some type of reinforcement piece add you can see in the last photo.
Now the chassis with saddle packs passes the chassis flex test Craig was trying above.
. Thanks!
Last edited by BLbound; 10-31-2011 at 02:48 AM.
10-30-2011 | 11:01 PM
#9846
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 145
From: Grand Rapids, MI
I'm currently setting up my new truck and did the same test after reading about it here, couldn't believe my eyes at how easy it was to get excessive belt slack from such little pressure on the shock towers.
I have a B44.1 saddle pack setup on the truck and I think the chassis flex is a lot worse without the stick pack brace/bracket. It flexes so easily that I wouldn't even run the truck until I made a chassis brace, which I did today. Looks like a chassis brace it's going to be mandatory for a saddle pack setup IMO.
I also noticed (as mentioned above) excessive belt tension really torques on the Topshaft and slightly twists the transmission, which in turn will affect gear mesh. I would be surprised if Associated does not include a chassis brace on a Factory Team kit in the future. This truck really needs one IMO.
I made the brace from some solid aluminum rod I had on hand and Rocket City ball end that are commonly used to make Clodbuster tubular suspension links. The hardest part was drilling and tapping the ends for the 6/32 studs to go into.
I had to keep the link level and up high enough so I can remove to saddled packs without removing the brace. I was concerned with the rear attachment point possibly breaking so I reinforced it with a large colored washer underneath and a locknut to spread out the load on the plastic over the motor. With the Tekin Pro 4 540 motor there is plenty of room above it to allow for some type of reinforcement piece add you can see in the last photo.
Now the chassis with saddle packs passes the chassis flex test Craig was trying above.
I have a B44.1 saddle pack setup on the truck and I think the chassis flex is a lot worse without the stick pack brace/bracket. It flexes so easily that I wouldn't even run the truck until I made a chassis brace, which I did today. Looks like a chassis brace it's going to be mandatory for a saddle pack setup IMO.
I also noticed (as mentioned above) excessive belt tension really torques on the Topshaft and slightly twists the transmission, which in turn will affect gear mesh. I would be surprised if Associated does not include a chassis brace on a Factory Team kit in the future. This truck really needs one IMO.
I made the brace from some solid aluminum rod I had on hand and Rocket City ball end that are commonly used to make Clodbuster tubular suspension links. The hardest part was drilling and tapping the ends for the 6/32 studs to go into.
I had to keep the link level and up high enough so I can remove to saddled packs without removing the brace. I was concerned with the rear attachment point possibly breaking so I reinforced it with a large colored washer underneath and a locknut to spread out the load on the plastic over the motor. With the Tekin Pro 4 540 motor there is plenty of room above it to allow for some type of reinforcement piece add you can see in the last photo.
Now the chassis with saddle packs passes the chassis flex test Craig was trying above.
10-31-2011 | 12:16 AM
#9848
10-31-2011 | 12:22 AM
#9849
This is not a Plug, or an advertisement. I'm just getting alot of PM's asking the identical questions so I'm going to answer them in public so I can yell at you when you ask them again. 
Pinned Top Shaft:
- You mail me your Topshaft, and everything with it. The "entire" assembly. Shaft, Thrust Bearing, Pulley, rear plate, spring, nut, everything in the image; with a stamp and I will drill, pin, and send your Shaft back to you as a favor. If you want to throw a buck or two in there I'll greatly appreciate it, It will cover all the steel pins i'm chopping up. I send Normal US Postage. (2-3 day)
Your TopShaft drilled and mailed: Free with your Stamps
- Some mentioned wanting me to just mail them a Pinned Shaft. I can do that as well. You need to let me know if you're running with/without a Basket, Or if you have a spacer in your slipper. Or both. I MUST know this or the alignment will be incorrect and that's on you. I can't guess. This will take more time as I will order the shaft/plate upon request. I'm not stocking a shit-ton of Topshafts/plates and then no one wants one.
3 days to get the shaft, then that morning, I will ship it out. (4 days from order, 2-3 in mail to you, so a week to receive. Sorry if this is too long.)
Brand New Slipper Hub and Topshaft drilled and mailed: $30.00
Chassis Brace:
- $20.00- After I receive the paypal, I will send out your Chassis Brace the following morning via US Postage. (2-3 day) If this does not happen I will PM you and let you know as soon as I do. (Lacking materials would be the only see'able reason.) - If for whatever reason your chassis brace breaks. PM me an image and I will send you the broken piece. I have used the first one. (poorly done alpha model.) and I have not broken it in an "attempt" to do just that. So I believe these will suit you racers just fine. Bashers, well. I tried my best to break it and I failed to do so.
Chassis Brace mailed: $20.00
Like I've told a couple of you. I'm not looking for a corporate Profit here. I just don't see the price that some of these people are charging. (not meaning anyone in this thread) I just want to help some people out. I'm one guy. And I'm not a machine, so These are homebrewed, tested, and they work stuff based off what we have figured out here in 600 pages. Thanks guys.
NOW, PM me new questions!
~ Shaun
(Credit for the assembled Top Shaft image goes to 1Fastpede)
Pinned Top Shaft:
- You mail me your Topshaft, and everything with it. The "entire" assembly. Shaft, Thrust Bearing, Pulley, rear plate, spring, nut, everything in the image; with a stamp and I will drill, pin, and send your Shaft back to you as a favor. If you want to throw a buck or two in there I'll greatly appreciate it, It will cover all the steel pins i'm chopping up. I send Normal US Postage. (2-3 day)
Your TopShaft drilled and mailed: Free with your Stamps
- Some mentioned wanting me to just mail them a Pinned Shaft. I can do that as well. You need to let me know if you're running with/without a Basket, Or if you have a spacer in your slipper. Or both. I MUST know this or the alignment will be incorrect and that's on you. I can't guess. This will take more time as I will order the shaft/plate upon request. I'm not stocking a shit-ton of Topshafts/plates and then no one wants one.
3 days to get the shaft, then that morning, I will ship it out. (4 days from order, 2-3 in mail to you, so a week to receive. Sorry if this is too long.)Brand New Slipper Hub and Topshaft drilled and mailed: $30.00
Chassis Brace:
- $20.00- After I receive the paypal, I will send out your Chassis Brace the following morning via US Postage. (2-3 day) If this does not happen I will PM you and let you know as soon as I do. (Lacking materials would be the only see'able reason.) - If for whatever reason your chassis brace breaks. PM me an image and I will send you the broken piece. I have used the first one. (poorly done alpha model.
) and I have not broken it in an "attempt" to do just that. So I believe these will suit you racers just fine. Bashers, well. I tried my best to break it and I failed to do so.Chassis Brace mailed: $20.00
Like I've told a couple of you. I'm not looking for a corporate Profit here. I just don't see the price that some of these people are charging. (not meaning anyone in this thread) I just want to help some people out. I'm one guy. And I'm not a machine, so These are homebrewed, tested, and they work stuff based off what we have figured out here in 600 pages. Thanks guys.
NOW, PM me new questions!
~ Shaun
(Credit for the assembled Top Shaft image goes to 1Fastpede)
Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 12-30-2011 at 11:47 AM.
10-31-2011 | 12:31 AM
#9850
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 201
From: denmark
This is not a Plug, or an advertisement. I'm just getting alot of PM's asking the identical questions so I'm going to answer them in public so I can yell at you when you ask them again.
Pinned Tip Shaft:
- You mail me your Topshaft, and everything with it. The "entire" assembly. Shaft, Thrust Bearing, Pulley, rear plate, spring, nut, everything in the image; with a stamp and I will drill, pin, and send your Shaft back to you as a favor. If you want to throw a buck or two in there I'll greatly appreciate it, It will cover all the steel pins i'm chopping up. I send Normal US Postage. (2-3 day)
- Some mentioned wanting me to just mail them a Pinned Shaft. I can do that as well. You need to let me know if you're running with/without a Basket, Or if you have a spacer in your slipper. Or both. I MUST know this or the alignment will be incorrect and that's on you. I can't guess. The Topshaft costs $10.00, then everything else is as stated above. This will take more time as I will order the shaft upon request. I'm not stocking a shit-ton of Topshafts and then no one wants one. 3 days to get the shaft, then that morning, I will ship it out. (4 days from order, 2-3 in mail to you, so a week to receive. Sorry if this is too long.)
Chassis Brace:
- $15.00- After I receive the paypal, I will send out your Chassis Brace the following morning via US Postage. (2-3 day) If this does not happen I will PM you and let you know as soon as I do. (Lacking materials would be the only see'able reason.) - If for whatever reason your chassis brace breaks. PM me an image and I will send you the broken piece. I have used the first one. (poorly done alpha model.) and I have not broken it in an "attempt" to do just that. So I believe these will suit you racers just fine. Bashers, well. I tried my best to break it and I failed to do so.
Like I've told a couple of you. I'm not looking for a corporate Profit here. I just don't see the price that some of these people are charging. (not meaning anyone in this thread) I just want to help some people out. I'm one guy. And I'm not a machine, so These are homebrewed, tested, and they work stuff based off what we have figured out here in 600 pages. Thanks guys.
NOW, PM me new questions!
~ Shaun
Pinned Tip Shaft:
- You mail me your Topshaft, and everything with it. The "entire" assembly. Shaft, Thrust Bearing, Pulley, rear plate, spring, nut, everything in the image; with a stamp and I will drill, pin, and send your Shaft back to you as a favor. If you want to throw a buck or two in there I'll greatly appreciate it, It will cover all the steel pins i'm chopping up. I send Normal US Postage. (2-3 day)
- Some mentioned wanting me to just mail them a Pinned Shaft. I can do that as well. You need to let me know if you're running with/without a Basket, Or if you have a spacer in your slipper. Or both. I MUST know this or the alignment will be incorrect and that's on you. I can't guess. The Topshaft costs $10.00, then everything else is as stated above. This will take more time as I will order the shaft upon request. I'm not stocking a shit-ton of Topshafts and then no one wants one.
3 days to get the shaft, then that morning, I will ship it out. (4 days from order, 2-3 in mail to you, so a week to receive. Sorry if this is too long.)Chassis Brace:
- $15.00- After I receive the paypal, I will send out your Chassis Brace the following morning via US Postage. (2-3 day) If this does not happen I will PM you and let you know as soon as I do. (Lacking materials would be the only see'able reason.) - If for whatever reason your chassis brace breaks. PM me an image and I will send you the broken piece. I have used the first one. (poorly done alpha model.
) and I have not broken it in an "attempt" to do just that. So I believe these will suit you racers just fine. Bashers, well. I tried my best to break it and I failed to do so.Like I've told a couple of you. I'm not looking for a corporate Profit here. I just don't see the price that some of these people are charging. (not meaning anyone in this thread) I just want to help some people out. I'm one guy. And I'm not a machine, so These are homebrewed, tested, and they work stuff based off what we have figured out here in 600 pages. Thanks guys.
NOW, PM me new questions!
~ Shaun
damm again im in denmark europ sowe i beet it is real ekpensiv to mail some thing like that to me whit track and trace number
10-31-2011 | 12:43 AM
#9851
Yeah. I'm very sorry, Freak. I just checked and it's roughly $100.00 FedEx, and $35.00 for USPS. Kinda up to you if you wanted to pay 35 bucks.
10-31-2011 | 12:57 AM
#9852
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 201
From: denmark
well i can get the basket for about 50$ shipt from mac the knive so i think im going to start whit that.
10-31-2011 | 05:16 AM
#9854
No prob. The link I posted is the blue v2.1 120amp esc, which is very similar looking to the orion. Hobbypartz just hasnt updated the pick.
10-31-2011 | 07:10 AM
#9855
I'm currently setting up my new truck and did the same test after reading about it here, couldn't believe my eyes at how easy it was to get excessive belt slack from such little pressure on the shock towers.
I have a B44.1 saddle pack setup on the truck and I think the chassis flex is a lot worse without the stick pack brace/bracket. It flexes so easily that I wouldn't even run the truck until I made a chassis brace, which I did today. Looks like a chassis brace it's going to be mandatory for a saddle pack setup IMO.
I also noticed (as mentioned above) excessive belt tension really torques on the Topshaft and slightly twists the transmission, which in turn will affect gear mesh. I would be surprised if Associated does not include a chassis brace on a Factory Team kit in the future. This truck really needs one IMO.
I made the brace from some solid aluminum rod I had on hand and Rocket City ball end that are commonly used to make Clodbuster tubular suspension links. The hardest part was drilling and tapping the ends for the 6/32 studs to go into.
I had to keep the link level and up high enough so I can remove to saddled packs without removing the brace. I was concerned with the rear attachment point possibly breaking so I reinforced it with a large colored washer underneath and a locknut to spread out the load on the plastic over the motor. With the Tekin Pro 4 540 motor there is plenty of room above it to allow for some type of reinforcement piece add you can see in the last photo.
Now the chassis with saddle packs passes the chassis flex test Craig was trying above.
I have a B44.1 saddle pack setup on the truck and I think the chassis flex is a lot worse without the stick pack brace/bracket. It flexes so easily that I wouldn't even run the truck until I made a chassis brace, which I did today. Looks like a chassis brace it's going to be mandatory for a saddle pack setup IMO.
I also noticed (as mentioned above) excessive belt tension really torques on the Topshaft and slightly twists the transmission, which in turn will affect gear mesh. I would be surprised if Associated does not include a chassis brace on a Factory Team kit in the future. This truck really needs one IMO.
I made the brace from some solid aluminum rod I had on hand and Rocket City ball end that are commonly used to make Clodbuster tubular suspension links. The hardest part was drilling and tapping the ends for the 6/32 studs to go into.
I had to keep the link level and up high enough so I can remove to saddled packs without removing the brace. I was concerned with the rear attachment point possibly breaking so I reinforced it with a large colored washer underneath and a locknut to spread out the load on the plastic over the motor. With the Tekin Pro 4 540 motor there is plenty of room above it to allow for some type of reinforcement piece add you can see in the last photo.
Now the chassis with saddle packs passes the chassis flex test Craig was trying above.