Ovalracer wonders why tbirdjunkie would make such an ignorant comment and recommend a fellow AE guy to a slowsi? The t4.1 Is still more that capable of wooping up on anything out there. I know mine will be doing just that when 22t's hit the track. Heck, the 10 yr old b4 still does it to the 22 and the 22t is almost identical design.

maybe thunderchicken wants others to go slower so he can win?....j/k

T4.1 is very competitive. The one thing that always killed me with the t4 was lower traction tracks and now with the added flex and the .5 degree hubs I feel it is very competitive in that area too. I think the drop off in this thread about the truck is just because many spots the truck racing was dying but it seems to be seeing a resurgence.

Really! That is awesome, Johnson just bought one and so did Win.

It believe that with the 22t coming the t4 will also take off.

Only thing is, ThunderbirdJunkie feels if you're going to buy something new, buy something new.

Has nothing to do with Losi v AE, or T4 v XXX-T, or anything like that. The B4.1 was the newest 2 wheeler available when ThunderbirdJunkie got his, the XXX-SCT was the newest SCT available when he got his...

He's not going to buy something just because it's new, though...it has to be new and good, which we all know the 22T is going to be

Let's face it...if it's one of Losi's actual race cars, it's going to be good...just like AE's race cars.

Someone please call the cops!!! Someone has broke in to T-birds house and is using his computer!!!

T-bird I am going to show you the mathematical answer to this situation...

T4.1 = PROVEN 22t= UNPROVEN

ps.... there is also going to be a little update coming for the current t4.1

Ooooh...

Hmm. ThunderbirdJunkie has a bunch of spare XXX-SCT parts assembled into most of an XXX-T...maybe he needs to strip this down back to spare parts and wait for the update.

What's the update? Huh Huh Huh???

There's talk of a 13.5 Truck class here...despite running mod ThunderbirdJunkie's wound up with 3 nice 13.5 motors he's never run...gonna have to have a Spec Truck

I would rather get a proven kit than a brand new designs with unknown flaws. I learned that the hard way with my Durango dnx408. What set up more or less is being used? I'm asking that way I can order the parts and fluids I need with the kit.

Thanks,

Dan

really? what is that

Here you go Dan, I promise that this is a good starting set up for your new kit: Front: #2 pistons, 2 limiters, Kyosho bright orange springs, 30wt oil, inside on the tower, outside on the arm. 1mm camber washer, and inside on the tower, and inside on the 3 hole caster block. 24.5mm ride height.



Rear: #2 pistons, 2 limiters, Kyosho bright yellow springs, 27.5 oil, inside on the tower, and inside on the arm. 1 washer under the u-brace ball stud located on the inside hole of the u-brace. B hole on the "A" plastic insert of the aluminum 0 degree hubs. 3 degree toe block with "1" degree of anti squat. 24.5mm ride height. Thick battery pad in the front, and a thin one in the rear. Of course, all the weights in the usual places too. I honestly feel the key to this set up is the K springs...car stays so flat in the corners, and jumps like a dream.

Sorry I took so long to reply, and you probably already have the part #'s, but here you go: Front oranges: W5181-55, Rear light yellows: W5183-65, and the cobalt's (for real high bite): W5183-72. Also, do NOT let the cobalt's scare you...even though they say that they are a "72" spring rate, they are actually in between a yellow and a blue rear. They are just a tick stiffer than the bright yellow rears. "I'll see you in the main" Also...here is the set up that I have been running: Front: #2 pistons, 2 limiters, Kyosho bright orange springs, 30wt oil, inside on the tower, outside on the arm. 1mm camber washer, and inside on the tower, and inside on the 3 hole caster block. 24.5mm ride height.



Rear: #2 pistons, 2 limiters, Kyosho bright yellow springs, 27.5 oil, inside on the tower, and inside on the arm. 1 washer under the u-brace ball stud located on the inside hole of the u-brace. B hole on the "A" plastic insert of the aluminum 0 degree hubs. 3 degree toe block with "1" degree of anti squat. 24.5mm ride height. Thick battery pad in the front, and a thin one in the rear. Of course, all the weights in the usual places too. I honestly feel the key to this set up is the K springs...car stays so flat in the corners, and jumps like a dream. I am back to running an "unshaved" u brace with the A hub inserts as the set up above shows.

wow this is more than helpfull thank you very much. im getting a tekin rs pro with an 8.5 redline or should i go with the 7.5?

thanks agian,

Dan

An 8.5 and a Tekin RS is plenty for 2wd off road...The pro is a "taller" speedo and sometimes the body will not sit down all the way.

Silly question...which bodies won't fit with an RS Pro?

ThunderbirdJunkie's PL Bulldog fits dandy with a Novak Cyclone, and because of the wire arrangement, the case is the same height but it winds up being taller than the RS Pro in the SCT.

Only B4 body that comes to mind offhand that wouldn't fit *right* with an RS Pro is that old Venom body...it rubbed the wires on the Cyclone, but still stayed seated.