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RC10B4.1 FT/WC

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Old 05-09-2012 | 08:08 PM
  #14506  
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Good news for me. The loose wheel nuts problem is solved. I have 3-4 shims, blue cone washer, cross pin, Kyo wheel. The wheel nut never loosened one bit. Ran 4-5 battery packs and all good.

Thanx again people.
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Old 05-09-2012 | 08:13 PM
  #14507  
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Originally Posted by B.A. Racer
No...it's 3 limiters..each limiter equalling .030
I got what he meant. He meant it equalled .090 total
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Old 05-09-2012 | 08:42 PM
  #14508  
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Goin for my first ball diff rebuild and my LHS was confused on what part number I needed for the ft b4.1 and im also confused which exact rebuild kit I need. Please advise, thanks in advance. From iPhone.
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Old 05-09-2012 | 08:45 PM
  #14509  
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I just installed my avid steering rack on my b4.1. Is anyone using any of the plastic from the original set up besides the ball stud piece. Im tightening down under the rack with the stock plastic bar. It binds. Is necessary to keep it still? Or using shims is a must?
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Old 05-09-2012 | 08:46 PM
  #14510  
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Do many people switch from the rb5 wc to the b4.1 Wc? And does any body have an eta for the BB shocks?
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Old 05-09-2012 | 08:51 PM
  #14511  
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Originally Posted by SoCal Jared
Goin for my first ball diff rebuild and my LHS was confused on what part number I needed for the ft b4.1 and im also confused which exact rebuild kit I need. Please advise, thanks in advance. From iPhone.
ASC7677
ASC6581
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Old 05-09-2012 | 08:53 PM
  #14512  
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve
ASC7677
ASC6581
How often do you completely rebuild your diffs?
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Old 05-09-2012 | 08:59 PM
  #14513  
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Originally Posted by SoccerSting
How often do you completely rebuild your diffs?
2 to 4 months running 1 practice night and 1 race night a week. Sometimes sooner or later depending on how gritty it gets or if there is a big race weekend. Diff wear will also very depending on traction levels as well as what turn motor you are running.
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Old 05-09-2012 | 09:05 PM
  #14514  
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Originally Posted by danielXIII
I just installed my avid steering rack on my b4.1. Is anyone using any of the plastic from the original set up besides the ball stud piece. Im tightening down under the rack with the stock plastic bar. It binds. Is necessary to keep it still? Or using shims is a must?
You're simply replacing the bellcranks, all other pieces remain the same! As with the original assembly, you have to tighten/loosen the screws to the desired freeness. Hope this helps!
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Old 05-09-2012 | 09:28 PM
  #14515  
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Mine's built, waiting on a battery and a transponder.

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Old 05-09-2012 | 09:31 PM
  #14516  
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Originally Posted by umm winning
Do many people switch from the rb5 wc to the b4.1 Wc? And does any body have an eta for the BB shocks?
extended and compressed lengths of the Kyosho big bores are almost identical to the b4.1ft shocks. manipulate to perfection the usual way with rod ends and such.
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Old 05-09-2012 | 10:01 PM
  #14517  
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve
ASC7677
ASC6581
got em, thanks again!
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Old 05-09-2012 | 10:08 PM
  #14518  
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Originally Posted by SoCal Jared
got em, thanks again!
No problem. Your welcome.
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Old 05-09-2012 | 10:58 PM
  #14519  
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Originally Posted by brian cox
I ran Avid yellow front and rears this past weekend with good results...went from losi orange/white combo--I believe the yellow fronts are rated at a 3.06 which is a touch stiffer than a losi orange, and the yellow avid rears are rated at 1.99 which is real close to what the losi yellow rears are.Im running a full length pack BTW
Most using using Avid yellow ft & red rear , I'm using red & red..
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Old 05-09-2012 | 11:08 PM
  #14520  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
I'm using red & red..
Which battery?
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