i have been testing the outerwears dirt shroud for quit some time and it works great i have the plastic one also but the outerwears is way better and keeps out more dirt and mud

Just cut the appropriate length of fuel tubing. Unscrew the rod end, slide it on. Now you're protecting your outdrives AND getting a bit of "second stage damping" soft bottoming on which ever end your doing.

I have my ends screwed three turns out on the back, 4ish mm of limiting pretty much solves the outdrive issue, so I cut mine 7ish mm.

Glad outerwears finally came out with them for the SC10 4x4. We have 2 for our SC10 2x4's and they work well. Really warm days I don't always run them because I have seen an uptick in the temps but the 4x4's kick up so much more dirt adding weight and "dirt",that I will be ordering one of these.

Which tower mounting position do you have your rear shocks at? If you use the inside most position would that reduce the up travel limiting? I am just getting my SC10 4x4 together and want to start out at the right level. I like your solution using fuel tubing. I need to make a trip to the store now!!

7mm seems a lot.

Middle.

I increased my downtravel by +- 3mm, but needed 4pm of uptravel limiting from stock. 7mm.

...and why buy? I gaurantee you can walk around a nitro pit and pick up a foot or so off the floor, for free!

They did not leak. But they are not designed properly, meaning, the black side if the diff has a recess that is deaper than the shim that sits in it, and the diamiter of the recess is smaller than the sungear. So the sungear rubs and wears the inside of the diff, then once it wears in the the gear mesh loosens and can skip or lock up.

This problem can be overcome by shimming the inside of the diff on the black piece.

I have also increased my down travel by 3mm. Works out a lot better for me especially in the bumpy area. I think the fuel tubing idea will work for me. I have tons of it left from when I ran nitro. Thanks

Terry

I am using about 5.5mm of fuel tubing all around. No more binding the cva's and diff outdrives No more bent front cva's also

ad this u put on the shock shaft for them not to bottum out ad get to high up ???

Has anyone tried running the 306 Reedy 4000mah 60c lipo all the way forward as apossed to converting to saddle packs? Seems that it would offset a 540 motor almost perfectly. Or maybe mount it across the front offset to the right side.

I think I will try it out.

Keith.

yes, there is too much up travel in the shocks. If you compress the shock all the way by hand and turn the cva, the cva will bind up with the diff outdrive. Hence the need to limit the shcoks. as a side not, this is only apparent when the shock boots are off.

Hey guys,

What would be the best universal motor that I'll be able to gear for technical indoor tracks and medium sized outdoor clay track. I will be using it with a mamba max esc. Please help me out as I'm new to the 4x4 SC scene.

Thanks,
Dan

Castle 1410 and 1415, Novak ballistic, Tekins and Vipers are all popular. Castles aren't sensored though.

So a Novak ballistic 4.5 would be good

Letter to Associated:

I don’t know about others who have called Team Associated lately and who they been talking to, but after having been a loyal Team Associated vehicle owner of one sort or another over the past fifteen years I have to sayI become increasingly dissatisfied with your products, in particular the SC104x4.

I find it hard to believe that when I called today seeking warranty support for the substandard components/parts that I (and plenty of others)have had to contend with, I spoke with Chris in product support and I explained how the slipper assembly overheated, essentially melting things like the slipper pad to the spur and heating the spring to the point it became discolored and useless (despite being “locked down”). He informed me would only be replacing few specific components ( implying I should happy with that) and that the “best solution” was to purchase the ClutchBasket. Really? I have no doubt it works but should I have to be directed to a third party manufacturer to resolve an issue with your product design? You should at least be willing to replace the slipper components when it’s been clearly identified as a week point in the drivetrain. I also mentioned the “bent”front/rear A arms and I was informed that these would not be replaced under warranty because in his opinion this was caused by the vehicle sitting too long on its wheels… and they’re made “soft”on purpose to avoid breakage. Again…really? So just like the substandard slipper design I now have to consider paying for RPM A arms (or buy AE’s) to compensate for poorly manufactured/designed AE A arms. All of this after I received the truck minus the entire shock bag and having to wait months for replacements to be sent.

I want to believe this is an isolated experience and that if management knew about this they would attempt to make it right but I’m not entirely convinced. I hope others have avoided these sort of problems and havereceived better service and support but I know this has certainly discouraged me from commenting positively about my Team Associated experience.