SC10 4x4 Thread
#2116
It's hard to drive a car setup with these nanny controls as I call them, after driving no expo for so long. If anything, no expo is like having negative expo.... because the steering is not linear and falls off as the servo horn angle increases. Expo compensates for this. I agree that expo probably has more potential though.
#2117
I put black grease on, and tightened it as much as I could without it locking. It had no grip probably because of the grease. Oh well. Would be cool to have more adjustment there instead of all or nothing.
#2118
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 52
So just finally got to spend two days at my local track and worked a few things out. Ok conditions were mostly light water to med dry clay indoor with plenty of bite in the groove. Set up was tekin 5.5 550 short course motor and rx8 speedo. With spectrum started at 14 61 kinda to slow and too much torque. Moved to the 58 bingo more top end maybe even 57 or 15. Some timing advance. Slighty tweaked exPo -5 and 15 throttle punch. No sway bars stock oil and out side bottoms middle tops. Stock diff fluid no sway bars. Felt good I'm new to 4x but am top 5 in stock short course. Got about 1 sec to 1.5 faster and felt better by days end This truck rocks nothing broke and fells amazing. Btw clicker was loose sounding like a fishing rod I love two wheel feel Gonna stick the oils in diff and shocks and up grade the slipper pads and it's race time Awesome days trucks badass
#2119
Anyone use the Novak pro sc ballistic 4.5 system in their sc10 4 x 4 yet. Just wanted to know if they fixed the esc yet or is it still fire prone as suggested on various posts. Would the gtb 2 package be any better. Or should I skip Novak esc's all together.
You opinions would be valued
Thanks lyrragnus
You opinions would be valued
Thanks lyrragnus
#2121
#2122
I run a 4.5 550 with a novak kinetic with no problem. Esc temp is between 90-100 running the fan it came with.
#2123
Copied from the Team Ae Face Book page
quote:
Ae Chris Jarosz
To make the links you will need,
2x #89092
1x #4671
1x #89091
2x #31286
2x #5190
as well as RC8 shock end pivot balls.
Take the sway bar eyelet and cut 2mm off of bottom. So this for all 8 eyelets and then screw 2 together until you see 1 thread showing between them.
Next install the shock end pivot balls on one end of each link and the sway bar joint on the other end of each.
When installing the link into the arm, put a 1mm shim, #31286, on each side if the link.
Now mount the bar to the chassis, you will need TC5 mounts #31264, and 2.5m x 8 screws #89222
You will need to bend your own bars.
I recommend getting some 1.5 2.0 and 2.2mm wire. If your hobby shop only sells SAE sizes its .059, .078, .086 wire.
quote:
Ae Chris Jarosz
To make the links you will need,
2x #89092
1x #4671
1x #89091
2x #31286
2x #5190
as well as RC8 shock end pivot balls.
Take the sway bar eyelet and cut 2mm off of bottom. So this for all 8 eyelets and then screw 2 together until you see 1 thread showing between them.
Next install the shock end pivot balls on one end of each link and the sway bar joint on the other end of each.
When installing the link into the arm, put a 1mm shim, #31286, on each side if the link.
Now mount the bar to the chassis, you will need TC5 mounts #31264, and 2.5m x 8 screws #89222
You will need to bend your own bars.
I recommend getting some 1.5 2.0 and 2.2mm wire. If your hobby shop only sells SAE sizes its .059, .078, .086 wire.
#2125
Copied from the Team Ae Face Book page
quote:
Ae Chris Jarosz
To make the links you will need,
2x #89092
1x #4671
1x #89091
2x #31286
2x #5190
as well as RC8 shock end pivot balls.
Take the sway bar eyelet and cut 2mm off of bottom. So this for all 8 eyelets and then screw 2 together until you see 1 thread showing between them.
Next install the shock end pivot balls on one end of each link and the sway bar joint on the other end of each.
When installing the link into the arm, put a 1mm shim, #31286, on each side if the link.
Now mount the bar to the chassis, you will need TC5 mounts #31264, and 2.5m x 8 screws #89222
You will need to bend your own bars.
I recommend getting some 1.5 2.0 and 2.2mm wire. If your hobby shop only sells SAE sizes its .059, .078, .086 wire.
quote:
Ae Chris Jarosz
To make the links you will need,
2x #89092
1x #4671
1x #89091
2x #31286
2x #5190
as well as RC8 shock end pivot balls.
Take the sway bar eyelet and cut 2mm off of bottom. So this for all 8 eyelets and then screw 2 together until you see 1 thread showing between them.
Next install the shock end pivot balls on one end of each link and the sway bar joint on the other end of each.
When installing the link into the arm, put a 1mm shim, #31286, on each side if the link.
Now mount the bar to the chassis, you will need TC5 mounts #31264, and 2.5m x 8 screws #89222
You will need to bend your own bars.
I recommend getting some 1.5 2.0 and 2.2mm wire. If your hobby shop only sells SAE sizes its .059, .078, .086 wire.
Honestly thought I dont know if a sway bar would do me any good. I think the truck handles great. I havent traction rolled even once.
#2127
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 425
From: So Cal
maybe ur not tryin hard enough? lol, j/k. i run in hardpack clay that is super high traction and coming into the sweeper fast(30+mph) and u easily traction roll, i have to let off and/or brake for a sec then get on the throttle again so it doesnt go into a barrel roll.
#2128
driving the truck today with the clicker locked down for the full four wheel drive affect..went to try and loosening it up for more 2wd affect and no go.. i backed out the nut practically all the way with no thread showing and still didnt do anything!!! has anyone had this issue???????
#2129
... also for a lot of people, it's a great idea to play around with the expo (just make sure that you've got it in the CORRECT DIRECTION: Negative for hitec / futaba, and positive for spektrum / JR .. and I think Airtronics). It allows us to to keep the steering, yet making the small input much more easily done, as well as making it less likely to spin out. My guess is that those who said that they don't need it are part of the old school crowd who learned on NO expo
.
.
Why? I would think positive expo is positive expo, regardless of the servo manufacturer?
#2130



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