The BallEnds are aluminum.
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The FT's are actually nothing special as far as building. The kit does not include springs, or the Shock Cap bushing. So consider that. About them not going together well: It's like anything else on this truck. It all goes together it's just a little bit of a fight. They still are Butter Smooth and a huge Upgrade trouble or not.

Ahh I see now. I didn't have any trouble putting those into my stockers...just used a pair of pliers and some 'brute strength' (lol yeah right)!

Good to know that the FT's are a solid upgrade. I think I'll go ahead and pick them up soon. Might as well get an extra set of bushings although I'll have the originals (which I think are the same). I went ahead and bought the FT front and rear spring kits a while back. So I've got plenty of springs (2 sets of blues).

Thanks for the response...Much appreciated Sir!

Anyone cut out the bladders for shocks?

To run emulsion style?

Scaling the truck, what weight was being used front to rear?

I got about 8 more packs though it yesterday and while I am loving this truck more and more I can't stand not being able to adjust the front end while in flight. So now I am looking into the pin mod. Does this help with this or is it more of a tuning option for traction. I use the HT pads with the slipper locked down. If this mod would help with the front end then I am all for it.

Terry

I made plastic jaws for my vice in the garage from an old plastic cutting board. Worked like a charm.

Sounds like your belt may be a little tight. Try this simple fix first to see if that helps by adjusting the tension in the front and rear one notch; and/or raise the ride height in the front or lower the rear ride height.

Three points:

1. Yes it will help.
2. No, your slipper is not locked down even if the spring is totally collapsed, even though you think it is.
3. DO NOT RUN THE SLIPPER LOCKED DOWN with the pin mod unless you have a bunch of extra idler gears on hand and desire changing them out on a regular basis. You need the slipper to take shock away from the driveline.

Have fun, be prepared to spend 10 or 15 laps re-learning how to drive your truck after the modification. It's totally different, but it's faster.

If I were doing it I would just buy the ft shafts and the upgraded (fixed) bladders. 25 bucks vs 120. Unless you are trying to come up with 2 sets of shocks the ft kit just has a bunch of parts you already have........and you'll save yourself some drama getting the caps to thread on.

Well I am stoked if it helps. As for my slipper, yes it is locked down. I have added washers and after running all the packs through it there is zero wear on the pads. None at all. I run all my trucks like this. I just never understood the point of letting it slip. Well I mean I understand it helping with the driveline and those moments I don't let off the throttle fast enough but for general racing around my track I like it locked. Now this is coming from someone who doesn't race that often but I do have a track in my backyard which I drive almost daily with my wife and friends. It's about a 30 second track so it's a decent size. So when i do the pin mod how much slip should I do. The way I know of it is to take it on the street and punch it, if it slips for a couple feet it's good. I guess I will learn when I do the mod. Also what size pin is this. I have about a million different sizes.
Thanks for your help.

I thought the same as well when I changed the front from position 3 to 1. The rear is at 3. I will try to loosen it one position at a time and see if it helps. I am running the overdrive gear as well.
Thanks

Terry

I don't like the way the truck handles with bladders. The shocks come with a flat type o-ring to use in place of the bladders. Been running them emulsion style from almost the start.

Just did my first test run. Was mostly full throttle runs up and down my street (using the stock tires since they suck anyway) for about 15mins and was around 110deg on the motor and 85deg on the esc. Outside temp was around 60deg

I was using 12/62.

I'll probably go with 13/62 or 13/60 depending on the track.

It took me the bulk of two evenings but I finally got everything all together. And did some light bashing.

I love the way this truck handles, not sure what all the complaining was about with the swaybars and having too much steering etc. I got the swaybars but haven't put them on yet, wanted to see what the difference was. But then again I'm still a noob, this is my first real race truck, but have been bashing and doing some light racing with the rustler vxl. I do miss the raw 3S power of the vxl, but wanted to keep it all ROAR happy.

Biggest issues making the build slow for me was spending way too much time painting the body and I still kinda screwed it up, then just trying to keep all the different screw sizes straight as I had to keep going back and taking things apart. Also, I don't know how they measure their screws, but using the calipers I was never able to exactly match the screw length in the manual by measuring, just had to do it by relative sizes.

All in all I'm very happy with the truck so far and look forward to tweaking it out!

I ended up with bladders back in mine as well Truck seemed to fade threw a run.

I ended up Scaling my truck, I ended up adding weight to the front end to get my percentages good.After seeing the weight percentages in this truck i can under stand why the saddle pack mod is so good

With the slipper pinned, and weight added up front Truck feels like it pulls now!

I also moved receiver box up front in the tray..