RC10B4.1 FT/WC
10-09-2011 | 09:48 PM
#6391
I have a t4.1 and I just recently purchased some rpm wheels. they are the revolver and bully style. anyway, i glued tires and mounted them. the fronts hit the a arm when i turn the wheel all the way. I have a dx3s and i put the travel down to 65% before it stopped rubbing the a arm. I tryed spacing the wheels but when I put shims in it the wheel locks up and you cant spin the wheel. when I loosen the axle nut enough to spin the wheel the wheel itself becomes wobbly. this sux because i just spent over $100 on wheels and tires. has anyone else run into this and if so what is the fix?!?!?!?!
and 
racer1812 has the 1st place I would look for the problem.
T-BirdJunkie that is a good ?
Wonder IF the rims aren't the ones for a AE 2wd truck, had a set for a Losi xxxt the didn't fit well.
My GT2 and T4 the rims rub on the hub link, adjusted them as T-BirdJunkie stated to limit the amount of rub..
10-10-2011 | 08:51 AM
#6392
10-10-2011 | 08:51 AM
#6393
I have a t4.1 and I just recently purchased some rpm wheels. they are the revolver and bully style. anyway, i glued tires and mounted them. the fronts hit the a arm when i turn the wheel all the way. I have a dx3s and i put the travel down to 65% before it stopped rubbing the a arm. I tryed spacing the wheels but when I put shims in it the wheel locks up and you cant spin the wheel. when I loosen the axle nut enough to spin the wheel the wheel itself becomes wobbly. this sux because i just spent over $100 on wheels and tires. has anyone else run into this and if so what is the fix?!?!?!?!
Last edited by Matt Trimmings; 10-10-2011 at 09:02 AM.
10-10-2011 | 08:58 AM
#6394
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,739
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
I dont believe that RPM ever made T4 wheels. Looking on their website it the descriptions are for associated wheel with either a 1/4" or 3/16" axle. That is how they were advertised for the t2 and t3 trucks. I couldnt find anything that stated they offered them for the t4. The only wheels made to fit the t4 will be the ones by Associated or JConcepts.
10-10-2011 | 09:00 AM
#6395
Exactly what I did. Filled shock body. Oil in shock cap. No bleed screw in cap. Put cap on and oil pushes out the bleed hole. Then as I compress the shaft I put the bleed screw in just before full compression so air can't enter. Cycle the shaft about 10-15 times and watch it retract into the body. Sometimes part way in, sometimes most of the way in. IDK.
10-10-2011 | 09:01 AM
#6397
10-10-2011 | 09:05 AM
#6398
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,739
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
I got my first T4 off e-bay and it cam with chrome RPM wheels and worked just fine. So yes the big question is if he has the right (AE) wheels, or if any of our other suggestions have fixed the issue...$.02
10-10-2011 | 10:35 AM
#6401
so sweet
10-10-2011 | 10:53 AM
#6403
Looking forward to the long chassis.
Are you guys adding a lot of weight to the t4's? With about the same amount of sprung weight but much more unsprung weight, the truck seems a little bouncy compared to the buggy. I'm trying to decide if more weight or less dampening and spring are the way to go. I run my buggy pretty light (usually around an ounce of weight) but it seems like the truck could use quite a bit more.
When adding a lot of weight, what's the cleanest way to do it? Lead squares keep coming out of my rear triangles, and weight in the battery tray limits battery locations. Weigh behind my lowpro servo has worked out well up front, but the rear locations are limited.
Are you guys adding a lot of weight to the t4's? With about the same amount of sprung weight but much more unsprung weight, the truck seems a little bouncy compared to the buggy. I'm trying to decide if more weight or less dampening and spring are the way to go. I run my buggy pretty light (usually around an ounce of weight) but it seems like the truck could use quite a bit more.
When adding a lot of weight, what's the cleanest way to do it? Lead squares keep coming out of my rear triangles, and weight in the battery tray limits battery locations. Weigh behind my lowpro servo has worked out well up front, but the rear locations are limited.
10-10-2011 | 11:03 AM
#6404
As Wild Cherry recommended...repeat the bleed process once more. Do all that you stated and work the shaft up and down about 10-15 times and then compress the shaft in while backing the bleed screw off. The excess oil will bleed out, replace screw and you should be done.
