So I bought a set of Kyosho shocks to put on my B4.1. I didn't realize the shafts on these are much shorter than the V2 shocks. I'm not sure if I'm going to like these at all but I will give them a shot

I have a t4.1 and I just recently purchased some rpm wheels. they are the revolver and bully style. anyway, i glued tires and mounted them. the fronts hit the a arm when i turn the wheel all the way. I have a dx3s and i put the travel down to 65% before it stopped rubbing the a arm. I tryed spacing the wheels but when I put shims in it the wheel locks up and you cant spin the wheel. when I loosen the axle nut enough to spin the wheel the wheel itself becomes wobbly. this sux because i just spent over $100 on wheels and tires. has anyone else run into this and if so what is the fix?!?!?!?!

make sure that the thick spacer on the hub carrier hinge pin is in the right location, towards the rear/back of the arm.

your stock wheels weren't hitting at all? That's odd, ThunderbirdJunkie's run RPM wheels on all of his AE 2w trucks (GTs, T2s and T3s, never owned a T4/.1) and never had that issue. Are you sure you don't have parts swapped left to right? Like left arms on the right side of the truck, etc?

You should ALWAYS use your EPA on your radio for steering, especially if you're using a digital servo.

Can someone post a link to the 2.5 degree toe blocks? I am not sure what you are talking about.

They come in the kit, it's the rear piece that the rear hingepins go into.

so heres an update on my 8mm chassis, i just got rid of the hot glued braces which never broke after 10 raceways and did them with zap medium glue, will those were off i sealed the seam with the same glue medium c.a "zap". The bottom has contact cement and black mica, even without the braces i cant brake it braces are for reassurance

so the handling of the Brent theike setup posted on rc10.com works amazing, i said to cherry it felt dead, im sorry i ment the cav, worlds setup.
i am running it without the carbon a arms but with carbon everything else he puts on the sheet, they still make carbon arms? and wat do they help with? i can seem to see any problem maybe it could respond a hair better? my lap times have stayed so consistant compared to stock its crazy

I can't seem to find that kit anywhere

It comes in the B4.1 kit. If you don't have all the toe blocks, go to amainhobbies or your local hobby shop and order a set of toe-blocks.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZWK3&P=7

Sweet, thanks. Do you know which one comes on the rtr? Also, how many people use this weight http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Set-25-335-4

if you have and rtr it comes with the 3.0 degree but it looks different, run the thicker spacer that comes in the kit and the 3.5 block. it will be easier to drive if your starting out, if you are good at driving or getting there try the 3.0 degree is is more agressive and gives more steering...

How come people say to run the 2.5 block?

2.5 toe block with the 0 degree hub is great for high traction conditions.

MAKES more steering by letting the rear have less traction, on the ft car it comes with .5 hubs-with the .5's instead of buying new 0 degree hubs for 30 bux if you want the nicer ones or you can use the included 2.5 toe in block