RC10B4.1 FT/WC
10-08-2011, 08:41 PM
#6361
God Speed
how bout this
10-09-2011, 07:24 AM
#6363
10-09-2011, 08:19 AM
#6364
Leaking FT shock caps?
My FT shocks on my brand 4.1 are leaking from the caps. I thought i read about others having this problem early in the thread but can't find it now.
Am i possibly over tightening them? I put a bit of slime on the o-rings to keep them in place while i put on the cap.
Am i possibly over tightening them? I put a bit of slime on the o-rings to keep them in place while i put on the cap.
10-09-2011, 09:29 AM
#6366
When I build the shocks the shafts suck up to the body. How do I prevent that?
It seems like I should let a little air IN so there isn't a vacuum pulling the shafts in. Currently the chassis will slap after the jumps. I noticed the other cars were absorbing the bumps really well. Mine wasn't.
It seems like I should let a little air IN so there isn't a vacuum pulling the shafts in. Currently the chassis will slap after the jumps. I noticed the other cars were absorbing the bumps really well. Mine wasn't.
10-09-2011, 09:43 AM
#6367
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When I build the shocks the shafts suck up to the body. How do I prevent that?
It seems like I should let a little air IN so there isn't a vacuum pulling the shafts in. Currently the chassis will slap after the jumps. I noticed the other cars were absorbing the bumps really well. Mine wasn't.
It seems like I should let a little air IN so there isn't a vacuum pulling the shafts in. Currently the chassis will slap after the jumps. I noticed the other cars were absorbing the bumps really well. Mine wasn't.
I don't do this ^^ but after I cycle my shocks a few times the oil/air emulsifies and the shafts no longer pull back in.
10-09-2011, 09:57 AM
#6368
I have been bleeding the shock as the instruction say , then I push the shaft up & down a few times and repeat the bleed process once more ...
10-09-2011, 10:20 AM
#6369
Which rear hubs seem to work well at most tracks..0*; .5*; 1*; 1.5*
10-09-2011, 10:22 AM
#6370
0 degree hub , 3 degree toe block
10-09-2011, 10:36 AM
#6372
If you try switching to the 2.5 toe block , the car rotation* will be faster , more steering, less traction or grip .
Switch to the .5 hub and the cars rotation will
slow down, less steering, more traction .
Yes, if you experiment with the parts you should feel a noticeable difference & notice a change in the lap times .
*rotation , a fancy word for corner speed....
Switch to the .5 hub and the cars rotation will
slow down, less steering, more traction .
Yes, if you experiment with the parts you should feel a noticeable difference & notice a change in the lap times .
*rotation , a fancy word for corner speed....
10-09-2011, 10:40 AM
#6373
If you try switching to the 2.5 toe block , the car rotation* will be faster , more steering, less traction or grip .
Switch to the .5 hub and the cars rotation will
slow down, less steering, more traction .
Yes, if you experiment with the parts you should feel a noticeable difference & notice a change in the lap times .
*rotation , a fancy word for corner speed....
Switch to the .5 hub and the cars rotation will
slow down, less steering, more traction .
Yes, if you experiment with the parts you should feel a noticeable difference & notice a change in the lap times .
*rotation , a fancy word for corner speed....
10-09-2011, 10:46 AM
#6374
Exactly what I did. Filled shock body. Oil in shock cap. No bleed screw in cap. Put cap on and oil pushes out the bleed hole. Then as I compress the shaft I put the bleed screw in just before full compression so air can't enter. Cycle the shaft about 10-15 times and watch it retract into the body. Sometimes part way in, sometimes most of the way in. IDK.