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Old 10-07-2011 | 06:25 AM
  #8206  
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Broke my first part.

Broke the Rear Chassis Plate. The motor side 3mm screw and nut pulled right up throught the plate

I was rear ended by a Losi just before a 180 turn. I got on the brakes setting up for my turn and I think he was going to over shoot the turn. The hit was hard enough that I think my 2wd would have been in pieces. I am ptretty impressed how durable this truck has been.

Still ran the rest of the night But the truck lossened up some with the added flex from the missing screw.
.
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Old 10-07-2011 | 07:43 AM
  #8207  
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Now that I have it apart both sides the nut pulled through the plate.

Has anyone else had this?
These are the rear most screws in the side rails of the chassis that have the nut inserted from the bottom.
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Old 10-07-2011 | 07:54 AM
  #8208  
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Originally Posted by Mundy1
Now that I have it apart both sides the nut pulled through the plate.

Has anyone else had this?
These are the rear most screws in the side rails of the chassis that have the nut inserted from the bottom.
Yes that was happening months (within the first 50 pages of this thread) ago to people that had over tightened the screw. in a crash it would pull the screw threw the chassis
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:04 AM
  #8209  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Cant find the hot racing diffs anywhere. Anyone have a link?
I went to Hot Racing's web site and they list a few places that sell their stuff.
http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...=SCF38HD;c=617
I ended up ordering my vented slipper set from LiquidRC. $0.99 shipping... if you're not in a hurry...
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:08 AM
  #8210  
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Originally Posted by jpure009
Dgrobe,

another Q,????

The owner of the track, said i shouldn't ride it with much subtrim, ever???
SO i wana get it perfect.....I have to use the tool, that comes with the
KIT, correct??? Witch i know, i also did PERFECT, and had 30Ltrim...

THX
here you go.. check this out..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2olQYCa6tPE
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:09 AM
  #8211  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
Can't you just loosen the 3mm screws on top of the case and move it L/R in lieu of using the subtrim? I have 40 or so of subtrim in mine, and it's absolutely zero problem.
excellent idea.. didnt even think of that.. thats gonna help a ton!!!!

i got mine as close to perfect as i could.. and i still have like 40 subtrim.. thanks man...
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:20 AM
  #8212  
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
I went to Hot Racing's web site and they list a few places that sell their stuff.
http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...=SCF38HD;c=617
I ended up ordering my vented slipper set from LiquidRC. $0.99 shipping... if you're not in a hurry...
Thanks, with that diff, all I would need is all my parts that are on my diff know right? Like the gears and the outdrives etc.
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:25 AM
  #8213  
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I believe so. Someone else on here a few pages back actually had pics of their rebuild with that diff.
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:26 AM
  #8214  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Thanks, with that diff, all I would need is all my parts that are on my diff know right? Like the gears and the outdrives etc.
I would suggest the idler gear to go with it...... That way all your gears in your trans will be metal. Might be more of a heat issue, but in the long run should last longer.
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:34 AM
  #8215  
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ok i have a serious problem. I just received my pro4 tekin 4000kv motor. it says to run the 48p spur gears, but none of my pinions mesh with that spur. so am i to runs the 32p spur gears or try to find some fine tooth mod 1 48p pinions?
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:38 AM
  #8216  
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Originally Posted by aGeS1272
ok i have a serious problem. I just received my pro4 tekin 4000kv motor. it says to run the 48p spur gears, but none of my pinions mesh with that spur. so am i to runs the 32p spur gears or try to find some fine tooth mod 1 48p pinions?
nono. Run 32p gear for the Pro 4. Try the stock 62 tooth with a 14T pinion. Make sure it's a metric pinion for a 5mm motor shaft.

I have the 4600 Pro 4 in my SC and run 62T 32pitch Spur with a 14T pinion.
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:38 AM
  #8217  
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Originally Posted by aGeS1272
ok i have a serious problem. I just received my pro4 tekin 4000kv motor. it says to run the 48p spur gears, but none of my pinions mesh with that spur. so am i to runs the 32p spur gears or try to find some fine tooth mod 1 48p pinions?
Maybe try running the 48p spur with a 48p pinion...... my only suggestion. or try a 32p set up and see what the out come is..... just watch the temps.
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:43 AM
  #8218  
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thanks guys i was just about to go crazy. i hope this motor is stronger than my tekin 4.5scx motor
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Old 10-07-2011 | 08:47 AM
  #8219  
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Originally Posted by aGeS1272
thanks guys i was just about to go crazy. i hope this motor is stronger than my tekin 4.5scx motor
It "SHOULD" be...... At the same time I thought CC SCT 1410 set up would be better than it is, not saying it's not a strong set up, but I was getting passed by LRP's and a few other motors with the same gear settings. So I'll be looking to upgrade some time in the near future.
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Old 10-07-2011 | 09:01 AM
  #8220  
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Originally Posted by TimMo846
It "SHOULD" be...... At the same time I thought CC SCT 1410 set up would be better than it is, not saying it's not a strong set up, but I was getting passed by LRP's and a few other motors with the same gear settings. So I'll be looking to upgrade some time in the near future.

From personal experience, tekin sc4x 4.5t is stronger than the 1410 4-pole 3800kV. At least top speed wise, my old sc4x pulls the 1410 guys on the front straight. (Same truck, same gearing).
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