Cool, bro. So, since you're beating a dead horse, ThunderbirdJunkie is not allowed an opinion based on the products he's used? IE the Ruluxes for his B4.1 and his SC10, which had cracks in the barrel of the wheel within two race days on both?
Or maybe he's not allowed his opinion based on the poor quality of the film the bodies are made from based on his experience in plastic film extrusion, and the fact that the body holes on his JC Truth body wallowed out within a day on the track, and the fact that that same body cracked worse and faster than his
A: stock SC10 2w body
B: his SC10 '09 Champ body
C: any of his many PL bodies
D: his XXX-SCT stock bodies

Or maybe the fact that the Barcodes didn't hold up as well as his PL Suburbs OR his AKA Wishbones (the Wishbones having a decided advantage over the suburbs)?

Or perhaps his negative experience just doesn't matter for anything because he is not a Nats-caliber driver? Because, you know, the only opinions that matter are the people that have a full ride sponsorship, NOT the lowly morons that actually pay money for the stuff
And AKA.

Start reading more and open your eyes, bucko.

Are these the wheel nuts you use? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ed-Nuts-Blue-4

Those are the ones ThunderbirdJunkie has been using on his SC10 4w

Thanks T-Bird!

these are the ones i use...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Locking-Nuts-8

i think the teeth on the steel ones last longer...

The ofna ones worked great for me, but they're spendy.

is it weird that i still use the stock ones with no issues?

If you really want to bullet proof your wheel nuts before a main I put 1 drop of CA. on the end of the axle shaft (AFTER) I put the nuts on, it keeps them on quite well and they will come back off when you want them off.

Nope I've ran mine on both an outdoor 1/8th dirt track (with very high jumps) and indoor 1/10th clay track with 0 issues of the wheels falling off....... "Knock on wood"............. I guess we are lucky lol

Seems like it isn't just wheel nuts. My wheel nuts have never come loose but my left rear outer camber link nut comes undone every other race. Need to do the CA trick to that one.

Make sure that ballstud/rod end isn't binding. Either that or the nylon in the nut is just worn out from being assembled/reassembled too many times.

Mine are steel but yes. I'd much rather have those.

It's due for a good cleaning as I haven't reassembled that piece since I built the truck so I doubt it's worn out from that. LOL Time for a good disassemble and cleaning.

I've been running the same serrated aluminum wheel nuts for over a year on other rigs. They don't wear out. If anything, the aluminum ones are better since they're lighter and mounted to a rotating assembly. BTW, the Tekin combo I purchased from you has been working great and winning races.

I had the same problem with that ballstud/nut, even with zero binding. It's also something I don't remove/install very often. A little blue loctite cured the issue.

Where I run there are 4 or so of us with the SC104 and I'm the only one with any issues of wheel nuts coming loose. Running similar setup, electronics etc as the other lads so no obvious, logical reason for it other than barbra streisand