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Old 07-29-2011 | 10:29 AM
  #5446  
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Oringal setup- so the rear chassis sacks a lot more than the front, should I get heavier wt shock oil or stiffer srings or both?

Is 40 wt too much?
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Old 07-29-2011 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Eli
Thanks D^

What is everyone doing with their bodies? Just mounted a freshly painted EKD body and it looks great. I dont want to put any holes in it if its not necessary and am not sure what is leagal.
Are most of you guys putting holes below the windshield and cutting out the rear bed cage where the three triangles are?
With my practice body i cut out where the rear lights are but that was it
Im assuming the body doesnt float as bad by doing the above things?
Eli thanks you guys in advance. Eli is also sorry for the newb question as Eli has usually always ran 2wd buggy.


you can run the speedholes on the windshield and cut the rear end off, as long as it still looks like an sct body its safe to "assume" its still legal. if you look at jesse robbers blitz body you will see tons of holes that were legal for nationals



D
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Old 07-29-2011 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by derbrylac
you can run the speedholes on the windshield and cut the rear end off, as long as it still looks like an sct body its safe to "assume" its still legal. if you look at jesse robbers blitz body you will see tons of holes that were legal for nationals



D
I run the jconcepts svt raptor bodies in the "stock" configuration with no holes. I run on an 1/8 scale track with many large jumps and have no issue with parachuting. I have not added any weight or chased the battery configuration at all either.

Parachuting has alot to do with throttle controlle while leaving the face of the jump, your shocks (oil weight and spring rate), the balance of the truck, and believe it or not, wiether or not your running your mudd flaps. I say the muddy flaps because of this simple principle, drag created results in downward motion from the point at which the drag occurred. I had my bumper break of the back of my sc10 2wd and I almost pulled my truck off the track because I couldn't jump the truck at all. It would parachute almost instantly after leaving the face of the jump and couldn't get the nose down to save my life. Put a new bumper on and mudd flaps and it never did it again.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-29-2011 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by GuiltyByAssoc
Oringal setup- so the rear chassis sacks a lot more than the front, should I get heavier wt shock oil or stiffer srings or both?

Is 40 wt too much?
Be sure to check rear A-arm pivot points for binding, they will bind pretty bad with extended use and not cleaning them. Shock oil will not help with sagging it will only adjust how fast a shock will compress or rebound. Although really heavy wt oil along with dirt filled pivot points will equal sagging.
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Old 07-29-2011 | 11:04 AM
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Thanls guys for the responses. I dont have much of a problem with parachuting unless I squid it off a lip
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Old 07-29-2011 | 11:06 AM
  #5451  
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are the proline caliber 2.0 tires wider on the inside or outside? or a bit of both?
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Old 07-29-2011 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Eli
I just got the spring kits yesterday and i might say the yellow front springs are nice atleast down here at SDRC. I even went to the white rear spring and like it but realized i may be too high on rear shock oil but at the moment im running 32.5 front and rear with yellow fronts and white rears.
have you tried the rear and front yellow? i just got mine kits too and thinking of going this route.
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Old 07-29-2011 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bzb
are the proline caliber 2.0 tires wider on the inside or outside? or a bit of both?
Pretty sure both, though I have never had the 1.0s. Tossed the 2.0s on the back of my 2wd and the truck instantly gained 10s/lap (on a 50-60s lap track)
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Old 07-29-2011 | 12:58 PM
  #5454  
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
Pretty sure both, though I have never had the 1.0s. Tossed the 2.0s on the back of my 2wd and the truck instantly gained 10s/lap (on a 50-60s lap track)
Those are long laps, where do you race at?
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Old 07-29-2011 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bzb
are the proline caliber 2.0 tires wider on the inside or outside? or a bit of both?
Both, great tires! I run the m4 calibers on my 2x4 FTSC10 on indoor clay and they work really well. They work really good on outdoor loose dirt also. With the 4x4 you better get the under tray because these sling the dirt big time! Id probably go m3 for outdoor, the m4's are almost to soft!
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Old 07-29-2011 | 03:42 PM
  #5456  
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cadillac wants to know if eli has his setup sheet for sdrc yet. cadillac remembers chatting the other night with eli @ sdrc, but not quite remembering what he said. cadillac asks eli to forgive him for asking him all the "newb" questions all the time, but wants eli to know he asks d. jarosz a lot of "newb" questions also. plus you know what cadillac does after hours.

cadillac knows eli and d. jarosz are experts in the field of rc and sc10 4x4's. cadillac already owes d. jarosz a "rocka-star," and cadillac will owe eli an "a&w."

side note: cadillac says to all the haters who hate on tbirdjunkie, this is internet life....not reality. all tbirdjunkie has done is helped out and made comments here on this thread about this topic...at least since cadillac has been reading here. if tbirdjunkie was talking smack, cadillac wouldn't say anything like this and cadillac would let the bashing go on...but honestly cadillac hasn't seen tbirdjunkie attack anyone.

cadillac thinks 3rd person is weird.
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Old 07-29-2011 | 05:37 PM
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Testing a new motor in SC104wd - Viper 18.2mm rotor/4200kv 540 (sensorless).

Thought you guys might like more motor options.


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Old 07-29-2011 | 06:24 PM
  #5458  
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here is me. doing a few laps with a brand new xerun 120A v2.1



+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 07-29-2011 | 07:23 PM
  #5459  
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Lightbulb Question....

Is anyone else having an issue with the servo horn hitting the front belt cover? It isn't really anything major, maybe I just need to move the servo to the left a bit? Thank.
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Old 07-29-2011 | 08:29 PM
  #5460  
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Originally Posted by BlackLabelVinyl
Is anyone else having an issue with the servo horn hitting the front belt cover? It isn't really anything major, maybe I just need to move the servo to the left a bit? Thank.
Mine comes very close, but doesn't touch the belt cover. My problem was with the servo horn hitting the servo. I wondered why the servo horn screw was loose after every race even with thread lock. After closer inspection, the enforcing rib on the horn was hitting the top of the servo where it wrapped over the top of the servo. I removed a little material to get clearance, but now I'm worried about strength. We'll see.
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