Whoa someone is a smarty pants.

Most people use a capacitor or two and that fixes the problem. Or if your esc has a built in bec that is a way to go. I'm not big on adding bec's and I think I speak for the majority out there as well.

Ha ya didn't mean to come off that way. Just putting my EE degree to use. Honestly I hear people say the wrong things about electronics where I race. Sometimes what they say could cause bad things to happen other times they just don't understand. Electricity isn't the most common sense thing so I just try to spread the knowledge.

How well does the exotech hold up to bashing? I would assume it' strong enough, but does it get beat up by rocks? any coating to be worried about scraping off?

Trying to decide which way to go for this truck. I was leaning towards the Center Diff, but a guy at my local track told me a center diff won't do anything for this truck since it's belt driven. He told me the clutch basket is a better option.

This is my first belt driven car, so I can't argue with him on his point. I only use this truck for racing. And I'm new to that so not very good yet. But I'm looking to the experts on this truck to guide me in the right direction. Which one will be better for the truck?

I'm running a novak ballistic 550 4.5T with a MMP ESC and Savox 1256 servo. And a spectrum glitch buster.

I just got mine in the mail. Its not raw aluminum it has some type of coating.
I'm sure this will be like every other aluminum chassis car. You scratch the bottom you see a shiny line.

I just ordered the center diff. I don't think the fact that its driven by a belt has anything to do with it. Every other 4x4 sc has a center diff they're not changing.

The center diff and the clutch basket are 2 tunning options. The clutch basket may work better on a certain track and the center diff may give you more of a performance advantage on another. I would buy both if you can and see which one works better on your track.

The basket is good, it has proven itself. The new center diff has gone through one pre order and will be shipping in the next week or so. Marcus from rc shox makes really good stuff and tests everything he makes extensively. I have no doubt his new center diff will be great.

As far as it not working because the truck is belt driven, not true in my opinion. It acts like a ball diff in your trans, which has also proven itself. With the front clicker system locking itself while under power links through the belt to the rear and the slipper. The biggest problem with the truck and why everyone has gone to the basket was due to the slipper pads not having enough grip to power the truck. The basket added 2 more surfaces to help with the lack of grip, and by doing so allowed people to adjust the slipper like they are intended for instead of just having to lock it down. The new center diff will act just like a ball diff in a trans, it will deliver the power to the side that needs it the most or in this case the front or rear of the truck.

Since the Slipper was designed as a de-coupled mechanism, the Ball diff will work on the truck. It also works much better than any slipper set-up, de-coupled or pinned, basket or not. Both Mantis and I can attest to that.

We have been testing a ball diff for a while as well. This has already been discussed with Marcus too. We both sort of started working on the project at the same time, however it takes us longer to release the product as it will include a manufactured spur and machined slipper hubs. Expect our center diff to be ready around Mid January.

EXACTLY!! between Cristian and I expect AE domination this year!! Both of us have been chasing a particular losi this past year. I think we have gotten him at least once but the gap is closing quick, the dude is just quick and was killing us with a jammin before the losi! The center dif is the last piece of the puzzle

I know this gets asked every page but I can't seem to find it. Whats a good starting point between HD and standard pads in the basket?

HD on spur standard in basket. i ended up with all 3 hd

Thanks to all for your informative responses. Looks like my gut feeling was correct. I'll order a Center Diff once Mantis gets the next ones going. (I checked the site today and it didn't look I could order one now.)

Looking forward to getting this thing running consistently. First day on the track the stock plastic hex wheel hub melted to the bearing holder and ended my day quickly. I've since installed the aluminum ones to resolve that issue. Next day I had issues with my steering. Took me a while to figure it out, but I believe my servo was moving (b/c my screws weren't tight enough) so my center point kept moving on my while driving. That, and my steering end points weren't dialed in correctly. So when I was turning all the way right/left, the a-arms were actually flexing pulling my loose servo right to left. I'm hopeful that after fixing all that, my next time on the track will be more than a couple laps!

Did anyone try the exotek saddle mounts? I wanted to get those instead of the AE ones incase I want to buy the exotek chassis. It isnt worth drilling holes on a 100 dollar chassis. And also, what is the best way to mount the saddle packs? Side to side or front to back?

Would be nice if there was a replaceable plastic or cf clip/screw on plate you could install to protect the Al.