5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-08-2011 | 09:59 PM
#3016
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 108
Ben you did not ask for the "proper temps for max power"???
Apperantly, I did not recall correctly(iirc) the safe maximum temperature for the 1410, it's 200*f not 220*f.
Can some of you 550 guys post your motor temps after 20 minutes of run time without a fan on a 20c 5ah lipo?
Thanks in advance
Apperantly, I did not recall correctly(iirc) the safe maximum temperature for the 1410, it's 200*f not 220*f.
Can some of you 550 guys post your motor temps after 20 minutes of run time without a fan on a 20c 5ah lipo?
Thanks in advance
06-08-2011 | 10:33 PM
#3017
Tech Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,031
From: netherlands
raise the rear ballstuds at least 3 mm to get the rollcenter down
I would go with 5K rear diff and around 7 or 10k front diff, depending on surface and layout.
2mm front swaybar
long wheelbase
stiffer spring in the front.
these are the thing I have done to get the rear to react a little slower and make the rear more stable.
Im not finnished yet, couse when I push harder on the truck , the rear is still easy to come around.
but Im getting there
06-09-2011 | 12:01 AM
#3020
I love my SC10 4x4 but one thing is a real pain, changing or adjusting the pinion. It basically requires you to pull the entire motor out. So I decided to do what AE should have done for us. I drilled a hole thru the bottom of the chassis that lines up with the pinions grub screw. So now I can stick a wrench in the hole and loosen the pinion grub screw to adjust or remove the pinion. I used a small foam wedge to seal the hole from the inside. See my post on RCShortcourse. http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/s...774#post189774 for the gory details (it's a long post and I didn't want to clutter this thread).
With a small hole in the bottom of the chassis I can insert a 2mm hex driver and loosen the pinion grub screw without removing the entire motor.
Small foam wedge seals the hole from inside.
Here is the bottom of the chassis. The hole is where the rear chassis slopes so it won't snag on anything and is small enough to not compromise the strength of the chassis.
With a small hole in the bottom of the chassis I can insert a 2mm hex driver and loosen the pinion grub screw without removing the entire motor.
Small foam wedge seals the hole from inside.
Here is the bottom of the chassis. The hole is where the rear chassis slopes so it won't snag on anything and is small enough to not compromise the strength of the chassis.
Also I love my sc10 , I'll be picking up another one soon to try a different setup once I get my current one dialed to my liking......
06-09-2011 | 12:05 AM
#3021
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
ThunderbirdJunkie's overheating problem is being caused by a bent topshaft. Set the mesh at the closest point, we'll see what happens on Friday. Anybody else bent a topshaft?
Mind you, ThunderbirdJunkie is the kind of guy that can break ANYTHING.
Mind you, ThunderbirdJunkie is the kind of guy that can break ANYTHING.
06-09-2011 | 12:08 AM
#3022
Nope can't say that I have, the only thing that I've broke is a cheap sensored motor but that was my fault lol....... And I've bashed, crashed, raced my sc10 and its still as durable as the day I put it together.......
06-09-2011 | 12:14 AM
#3023
06-09-2011 | 05:07 AM
#3028
I love my SC10 4x4 but one thing is a real pain, changing or adjusting the pinion. It basically requires you to pull the entire motor out. So I decided to do what AE should have done for us. I drilled a hole thru the bottom of the chassis that lines up with the pinions grub screw. So now I can stick a wrench in the hole and loosen the pinion grub screw to adjust or remove the pinion.
06-09-2011 | 05:34 AM
#3029
Ok, guys, I can't keep up with all the info that's in this thread.
If you see something that should go on the first page, PM me and I will add it, usually within a few hours mon-fri. I usually don't check the board on the weekend.
When you send me a PM, please also specify the post number that the info is in so I can give that person the credit.
You can also follow this guide on
and
If you see something that should go on the first page, PM me and I will add it, usually within a few hours mon-fri. I usually don't check the board on the weekend.
When you send me a PM, please also specify the post number that the info is in so I can give that person the credit.
You can also follow this guide on
and
06-09-2011 | 07:25 AM
#3030
I don't see how people are getting an allen wrench in there, but I hear it can be done. I prefer a good hex driver and it took all of 15 mins to do the mod. Whatever works for you is cool.