I'm running clay Panther switches. Any type of bar tire works well. Most guys are running super soft AKA bar codes. The new clay compound from Panther seems to work well.
There will be no racing at HDRP for the next couple weeks. The hobby shop and track will be open for practice but no racing. We will be racing at Rifle Remote Control Park for the next couple weekends. Check out the threads in the Colorado section of RCTech or visit http://highdesertrc.com/ for information on what is going on as far as racing goes here in Western Colorado.
Look forward to meeting you. If you have any questions please feel free to send me a PM.

I have to rip into the servo stuff tonight. Took it out for a test run last night and the servo horn doesn't fit right (made it 30 seconds before I lost steering). User error on my part, but was not about to rip into it last night.

One tip I can give for anyone going to build the truck... Buy a Ryobi or Makita drill.

OK just got done building mine. My slipper just spins car wont move. Ive got it built like the manual says. What am i doing wrong?

+1 lol I got my truck built and my hand wouldn't work after.

2. The shock shaft screws were loose on 3 of the shocks. I didnt remove the screws but just had tightened them up, hopefully they dont back out. I was tempted to remove them and add some loctite but I didnt. Will see how it goes.

I will be running a tekin rx8, 4.5 sc4x, and a ds1015 servo....should rip![/QUOTE]

I'm running same electronics. 13 pinion 35 timing. Runs 130deg.

I would take your shocks apart and loctite the screw. I had one come apart and beat up the retaining ring, the piece that goes in the bottom of the shock body, and an o-ring. AE does not have the parts to warranty it in stock...but I will get them when thay do. I had to use some Shoo Goo so I could keep running it.

Funny we ran at two different tracks and came up with the same changes to improve the way it drove.

I did make a sway bar set though. You will really like the truck with them. I ended up running 30k in the front diff and 3k in the rear. Although I think it will be better with 5k in the rear. What did you use for diff k's

I came up with a pretty sweet fan set-up too.

You sure that on Page 27 (second picture) you didn't forget to put the slipper thrust washer on? part 91090. I had forgot it and noticed it on my bench.... because of that... the belt wouldn't fully grab.

Yeah, I have a dremel electric driver, and AE team driver bits. I ca get into the diffs in 10-15 mins.... not bad at all. Thats faster than my rc8be.

On another note, when I firt tookout my truck to the track , the motor and speedo were hittin 160 running the castle 1410motor with the hobbywing sc10 esc. I rebuillt the truck last night and swapping out from a 14t pinion to a 16t, after 2 days at the track the 14t pinion was badly worn, so I ordered the RRP hardened pinions 14-16t. Did 10 min of high speed runs in the street, beatin on it hard, and found the temps in the mid 120s. While rebuilding last night, I mades sure that the front gear case was smooth with no binding, and did the same with the rear, then put on the belt, and checked by rolling it across the floor(without the pinion meshed up). I found that it rolled with much less drag than the day before. I must have over tightened the gear cases and the belt. There is a huge improveent in the top speed and acceleration now. Cant wait to hit the track up

Salad, have you ran yours yet?

One other thing, I noticed the losi guy at the track running traxxas offset rims. His truck was at least an inch wider than mine. I wonder how much wider we can get our truck and be track legal, and if it would be to our advantage to do so. The track i run doesnt even check.

Check p27 of the manual. make sure you have the slipper thrust spacer in, and in the right way. Last night I accidentaly left it out, and experienced the same thing, could tighten down the slippercutch all the way and it would still spin without grabbing.

Yes sir, its on there. Just like the manual. Im still lost.
I also checked the axle pins.

Hey BBurns - this is a must upgrade - thanks for sharing.
Would you be able to post some links on the Tekno Wheel hex, Hex Pins and Shims that you are using?
I will do this upgrade before taking it out to the track

Tekno wheel hex.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Adapter-Set-4

Traxxas hex pin.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ub-Axle-Pins-4

I used shims I had laying around. Centralcoaster posted a few links for some shims a page back.

I have the same setup and was running a 13t 32p pinion and the motor was coming off at 160, I better look at the cases binding.

Where is everyone setting their belt tension? I have mine just as the manual shows.

Yea I need to stop by the Home Cheapo on the way home from work and get a Ryobi. I did not get a chance to run it more than 30 seconds, in the 30 seconds I did notice it turns very sharp. I did plan on running it for the 2 minutes then take it back in and check the belts.

I predict people will be using Slash rear offsets on this truck. I think the front Slash offsets will be to wide but the rears should work and still hang under the body. Stock width is right there with the SCRT10 and had traction roll issues with the stock wheel offset. But as mentioned I have not had really any wheel time so I could be 100% wrong lol.

I did drop it next to the Losi and it's much narrower, the Losi is almost an inch wider and longer.

Going through this thread I've seen a few questions about the front overdrive pully and a loose belt ... on page 41 in the manual it states you need to set the front retainer to position 1 and use position 2 or 3 in the rear.

I had binding issues on the belt after completing the initial build. I found it best to remove all the belt covers, no motor pinion and put the tires on, then start working front to back looking for binding issues. In my case I found that I had overtightened the rear diff case (helped by adding a washer like what has been mentioned already) and had not properly seated the slipper assembly. Putting it all back together now and it's noticeably smoother and free, and will only get better once the truck gets a few packs through it.