Hey guys I'm running a stock Novak Ballistic 550 can 4.5T motor in my truck. Thinking about going with the new 14mm rotor for this motor. Good idea or not? I run on a large outdoor 1/8 buggy track with prety good traction with AKA City Blocks soft tires.

I'll let you know soon. I put my SC10 4x4 together last night and I race an
SCTE as well...

It went together good as is normal with AE kits. The only snag is one of the
rear CVA's is bent right out of the box all the shock piston screws were
loose and no diff lube in the diffs

I put sway bars on mine (I made them which was a piece of cake)
and I'm running 10.000 front,5.000 rear with 35wt front 30 rear 26mm
ride to start.

I'm heading out to race shortly and I'm taking the SCTE just in case. Better
safe then sorry, plus I can run them back to back.

The truck reminded me even more of the old MIP AE RC10 4x4 conversion
kit I built 25 years ago. Everything old always comes around to be new
again...

I'll post a report later...

No they aren't but I'd bet the piston screws are all loose and when you
race it one or more will fall out (like has happened to others here) and
distroy your shocks...

Be careful trusting any RTR R/C products they are put together by child
labor at .3 cents an hour...

Hey guy's, my son ran his for the first time last night. There were 5 other sc10 4x4's there. in each of the heat races, at least 3 had a rear whell fall off including my sons. Guys were cranking the wheel nuts so tight, that the rear drive was binding. Also, the cvd pins on the rear fall out when there's no wheel on! By the end of the night, 3 broke, my son was in a hurry to get the battery in his truck, reversed the battery leads and smoked his havoc pro! All the ae 4x4's finished at the bottom the losi's were WAY faster, and took the top 5 spots followed by a couple of durangos! Any solution besides drilling and tapping for a set screw to keep the cvd pins in?

tia.

put a piece of telfon tape around the wheel pin before the hex hub will keep the hex hub back off.

Use serrated wheel nuts and the wheels won't fall off and you won't lose cvd pins!!

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Locking-Nuts-8

This is why I'm taking my Losi SCTE with me when I race my SC10 4x4 for
the first time today...

subscribed.

ben

Chuck, let us know if the aluminum wheel hexes off your SCTE fit on the SC10?

I'll check that out and post later"

If they do and you want a locking hex you can use the blitz ones as they are aluminum and locking . I use them on my scte

I use the Kyosho locking hubs on my SC-R, never thought of seeing if my
Kyosho's fit the SCTE? I'll have to check all of them out to see if they all
interchange??

Ya try it out if they pin fits you are good to go.

ha I stripped a drive hex, using proline wheels

running a 550- 4.5 motor

Thanks for the quick response guy's! Just to be clear, it's the cvd pins that fall out, NOT the hex pins. There just seems to be a LOT of play , in and out. It would take quite a few shims to get rid of the play. He works at a hobby shop and pretty much has a clue about all things rc! He's gonna check to see which aluminium hex hubs might work. TIA