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Old 05-13-2011 | 10:27 AM
  #766  
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Originally Posted by tgpatrsn
I just got a sc10 and have the castle 1410 with the sidewinder. What is everyone using for pitch and gearing? I read the first page but wanted to know if anyone has tried this combo and if they smoked the esc and what gearing worked best. Thanks
oh and i ran the fan on the esc and so far its been pretty good and not to hot .
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Old 05-13-2011 | 10:35 AM
  #767  
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Originally Posted by Maybell
Traxxas nuts #1747R should work great in this case.
thanks for the info on the wheel nuts guys. I am headed out in a bit to my LHS to find some.

maybe Craig could add the info to PG1 in the wheels section
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Old 05-13-2011 | 10:37 AM
  #768  
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Has anyone found an option for shock springs yet?

I would have thought they would have released a set when they released the truck. Pretty retarded IMHO.

HPI and OFNA have 13mm shock springs. Dont know if the lengths work though.
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Old 05-13-2011 | 10:38 AM
  #769  
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The cvd pin doesn't need to be completely encapsulated in the bearing, it just needs a little to hold it in. But if a wheel comes off you could loose a pin. Or you could get the old style MIP set screw style pin retainers, they go right in the sc102x4 FT cvd's, probably the same on these. I always loc-tight the FT aluminum nyloc's but the serated style bolts work better to keep the wheels on but they are heavier, the traxxas nuts were steel last time I had some. Lol, maybe 1/2g or so but it adds up!
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Old 05-13-2011 | 10:40 AM
  #770  
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Originally Posted by FRONTI3R
It's there to fit a future release of an overtray/ undertray that keeps the dirt from going in the chassis and electronics.
Awesome I was thinking that's what they were for but didn't think they would pre install/include it with the kit. Love the forward thinking AE.....
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Old 05-13-2011 | 10:45 AM
  #771  
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543
The cvd pin doesn't need to be completely encapsulated in the bearing, it just needs a little to hold it in. But if a wheel comes off you could loose a pin. Or you could get the old style MIP set screw style pin retainers, they go right in the sc102x4 FT cvd's, probably the same on these. I always loc-tight the FT aluminum nyloc's but the serated style bolts work better to keep the wheels on but they are heavier, the traxxas nuts were steel last time I had some. Lol, maybe 1/2g or so but it adds up!
The HPI serrated are aluminum and I think might be lighter then the stock nuts.
> CNC serrated aluminum, large diameter wheel nuts used at each corner allow the fastest maintenance and offers the most wheel holding torque to prevent wheels from loosening.
From the HPI site HPI103908 is the Part#
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Old 05-13-2011 | 10:46 AM
  #772  
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I noticed there were a bunch of little clips in the shock parts bag. Can someone explain what these are for? I am thinking these are used to limit shock travel and control droop since there are no droop screws. Can someone confirm this?
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Old 05-13-2011 | 10:59 AM
  #773  
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Default Hex Help...

Originally Posted by JMD51
Guys,
I posted about this about 2 days ago. Same issue, and yes my cvd pins came out. I had just put electronics I'n and was setting mesh and belt. I shimmed like crazy, but unneccesaily to fnd out. Once u put the hex's and wheels on tight, they are tight as well and o issues. However, I like mine really tight so when I have it on the bench and am working, like I was, they won't come off. So I ended up using 2 each rear 2 front. Still may add 1 n front tho.
Easiest Solution...

Remove Hex and Drive Pin. Use a very small dab of shoe goe on the pin and a little bit in the drive pin side of the hex. Bolt wheel back on and let dry. Now when you pull your wheels off the hexs don't move but you can pop them off easy enough if needed for service.
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Old 05-13-2011 | 11:01 AM
  #774  
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Originally Posted by Shark413
I noticed there were a bunch of little clips in the shock parts bag. Can someone explain what these are for? I am thinking these are used to limit shock travel and control droop since there are no droop screws. Can someone confirm this?
Those are for limiting down travel on the shocks. Half moon shaped so they are easy to get off and on without taking shock bottom off.
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Old 05-13-2011 | 11:03 AM
  #775  
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Default Savox Servo Help

Originally Posted by rc-racer75
I am running savox 1268 servo, MMP SCT system, Spektrum micro receiver, M11 with spektrum module not the pro. i know the savox is a high voltage servo. My problem is that it is glitchy and also effects the motor and esc. How do I eliminate this any help is appreciated. Also, I am running a 35C 5000mah 2S lipo.
The MMP does not a real heavy duty BEC. I was running into some of the same problems with eh Savox TG1258 servo as well.

I purchased capacitorys online and made my own with two caps for the rx to help keep the voltage spikes up. Also if you have a Castle-link, bump the voltage from the default 5.5 to 6.0, More volts pull less amps. Finally make sure you end points are set correclty so the servo is not pushing agains a stop causing a high amp draw as well.

Hope this helps
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Old 05-13-2011 | 11:12 AM
  #776  
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Originally Posted by LosiSuperTruck
What can I do to tighten the truck a bit? When trying to take corners at higher speeds it seems like all the weight is on the outside rear tier and the inside front will lift and the truck wants to spin out. This problem is even worse on off camber turns or turns right after downsiding a jump. Setup is stock.
run chris jarosz's setup
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Old 05-13-2011 | 11:17 AM
  #777  
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Default Where o where can I find Piano wire?

I am trying to build sway bars but can not find piano wire? Do you guys know of some distributors? I have the hardware ready, used an old OFNA kit, but the bars I have are way weak, and I need much thicker but can't seem to find any. Checked all the piano shops, but no luck. Guess I'm hoping for another alternative!?!?

Thx
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Old 05-13-2011 | 11:33 AM
  #778  
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Originally Posted by hootie7159
@jstall:

are the bars supposed to move side to side completely or are they supposed to be anchored in the middle?
Originally Posted by Jstall7543
Ya, anchored in the middle is correct
Are you really sure about this? I always set the sway bar so it has a tiny bit of slop in the middle just so it can move freely. If you tighten it too much in the middle the car may get over-reactive. Just my $0.02...
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Old 05-13-2011 | 11:33 AM
  #779  
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Originally Posted by JMD51
I am trying to build sway bars but can not find piano wire? Do you guys know of some distributors? I have the hardware ready, used an old OFNA kit, but the bars I have are way weak, and I need much thicker but can't seem to find any. Checked all the piano shops, but no luck. Guess I'm hoping for another alternative!?!?

Thx
Your LHS should have it. I don't think I have ever seen a hobby shop with out a display of wire, with brass tubing and the like. Piano wire is just spring steel rod.

(Usually the displays are from a company called K&S)

Hope that helps.
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Old 05-13-2011 | 11:35 AM
  #780  
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Originally Posted by JMD51
I am trying to build sway bars but can not find piano wire? Do you guys know of some distributors?
Try a hobby shop that sells plane and helicopter stuff
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