SC10 4x4 Thread
#751
#752
What can I do to tighten the truck a bit? When trying to take corners at higher speeds it seems like all the weight is on the outside rear tier and the inside front will lift and the truck wants to spin out. This problem is even worse on off camber turns or turns right after downsiding a jump. Setup is stock.
#753
I believe so, the hex adapter is on and there's still a good bit of movement. I'll need to throw a wheel on and see what happens but that just brings up another issue of having to mess with the pin every time I remove the wheels to make sure it's seated properly.
I just need to get some more but it doesn't state what size they are in the manual.
I just need to get some more but it doesn't state what size they are in the manual.
#754
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut
#755
What can I do to tighten the truck a bit? When trying to take corners at higher speeds it seems like all the weight is on the outside rear tier and the inside front will lift and the truck wants to spin out. This problem is even worse on off camber turns or turns right after downsiding a jump. Setup is stock.
#756
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 114
From: Florida
I believe so, the hex adapter is on and there's still a good bit of movement. I'll need to throw a wheel on and see what happens but that just brings up another issue of having to mess with the pin every time I remove the wheels to make sure it's seated properly.
I just need to get some more but it doesn't state what size they are in the manual.
I just need to get some more but it doesn't state what size they are in the manual.
I posted about this about 2 days ago. Same issue, and yes my cvd pins came out. I had just put electronics I'n and was setting mesh and belt. I shimmed like crazy, but unneccesaily to fnd out. Once u put the hex's and wheels on tight, they are tight as well and o issues. However, I like mine really tight so when I have it on the bench and am working, like I was, they won't come off. So I ended up using 2 each rear 2 front. Still may add 1 n front tho.
#757
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 105
From: North Texas
I'm a little worried about my CV joint pins on the rear coming out. The bearing is all that's holding them in and AE doesn't supply enough shims to properly keep the CV from pushing in to where the pin could come out.
Has anyone running the truck had an issue with the CV joint pins coming out? I guess I gotta find some shims to ease my mind.
Has anyone running the truck had an issue with the CV joint pins coming out? I guess I gotta find some shims to ease my mind.
#758
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 105
From: North Texas
The Pro Line wheel is visibly thicker than the factory wheels. the nylon on the nut is just catching the first thread on the axle.
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut
Last edited by Keep'N It Cool; 05-13-2011 at 09:53 AM. Reason: FOund the info
#759
#760
You haven't "snapped" the hex all the way onto the pin. The play behind the hex to bearing should be .1-.2mm not very much at all.
If you have installed and tightened the wheels on and then remove you should see that this process will click them into place. Other wise you have to hold the driveshaft into the hub and push the hex on to snap it over the pin.
If you have installed and tightened the wheels on and then remove you should see that this process will click them into place. Other wise you have to hold the driveshaft into the hub and push the hex on to snap it over the pin.

#761
The Pro Line wheel is visibly thicker than the factory wheels. the nylon on the nut is just catching the first thread on the axle.
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut
#762
The Pro Line wheel is visibly thicker than the factory wheels. the nylon on the nut is just catching the first thread on the axle.
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut
Its definitely something that I will have to pay attention to then running these wheels. Some blue loctite might be in order or I might see if I can find a slightly thinner nyloc nut
#763
I am running savox 1268 servo, MMP SCT system, Spektrum micro receiver, M11 with spektrum module not the pro. i know the savox is a high voltage servo. My problem is that it is glitchy and also effects the motor and esc. How do I eliminate this any help is appreciated. Also, I am running a 35C 5000mah 2S lipo.
#764
I just got a sc10 and have the castle 1410 with the sidewinder. What is everyone using for pitch and gearing? I read the first page but wanted to know if anyone has tried this combo and if they smoked the esc and what gearing worked best. Thanks
#765
I used the 32pitch spur with a 13 tooth slash/Emaxx 32 pitch pinion . I havent raced it yet but it drives really good just bashing around with this set up . Rick



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