Does anyone know if you can just get the venturi insert ( the chrome piece) seperately on the Sirio 12TRP carb. If so, let me know where to pick it up.

At Tower Hobbies:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=SIRIO&S3=&S4=

They only have stock in 5mm and 6mm, and if you wan't it on 5.5mm you could just drill the 5mm one to that size.

AFM

Thanks, I got my local hobbyshop to order one for me.

Next Question: Does the Original Sirio .12 Conrod fit the
New ev02 as well? I have both a turbo button
and new conrod and am thinking about
getting a new EVO2 if these parts are
compatible.

Yes they are compatible.
afm

How does the EVO2 compare with the newer Novarossi engines?

It is at par with them (stock). Sirios have different powerband and emphasize top end. You need to understand that and normally have to gear them a tooth shorter in 1st speed and equal or some times a tooth taller in 2nd gear, than tha Novas. The right pipe is also important, they work very well with their own pipe, and others have had good results with the Novamega TPO4.
Allround they are very good engines for the Money. Mine runs as fast as the Novas at my track, and this last Sunday I placed second behind an RB Rody Tuned, and actually lost because he was better driver than me. But hey!! my engine costs $199.00 and the Rody is $340.00.
AFM

I'm currently running a Sirio 5 port AAC outlaw, so I know that their power is in the higher RPMs.
I just wanted to see how the newer engines are.
Is there a noticeable difference between the new outlaw engines, and the older ones?

There were at least 2 different drivers and 5 engines total. Fura Fura had 3 engines which all only lasted 1 race and there were 2 other engines which only lasted 2 races.

Regarding Sirio. Its possible that the engines in South America where all Mk1. They were reknowned for having serious problems and not lasting any length of time. Sirio denied anything wrong with the engines. But the conrod was so obviously weak.

Its quite possible you got one of the Mk2 engines which mysteriously are far improved and dont have the same reliability problem relating to the conrod.

How are the new carbs on the EVO2?
Are people still swtiching out the carbs for Novarossi carbs?

Actually they were engines bought in the USA (Trinity*&%$)

I bought my engine (Sirio S12 Evo2) in Europe (Spain) on October 2003, and didn't come with the new big blue cooling head????
So you are saying there are two batches of Evo2 engines???
How do we know which engines are MK1 or MK2.

AFM

Not anymore, Evo2's come with the new improved 3 needle carb, and as far as me goes, it is the best carb I've had so far. I even use it on my back-up/training engine, which is an RB X12.

AFM

I can't tell you that. My engine is a 3 port ABC, and as far as comparing it to the old 3 port Sirio, yes it is by far much faster.

AFM

would you recommend a novice to break in a evo 2 5 port??

Hi ther Gent

Did you finally got yourself an Evo2 5 ports???? Why not Break-in any engine is the same, being an expert or a novice.

Any way following is the correct procedure for Break-In a SIRIO. I know you don't have a bench, but maybe somebody at your track or local, hobby shop might have one to lend. At any rate Break-in should be done between 90°C to 100°C maximum.

BREAK-IN

After reading a post by Andrea Rossi in the Sirio's web site, this is the correct Break-In procedure for the S12's

1.- One (1) tank in the bench at WOT with very rich setting of HSN, avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track with very rich setting of HSN, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN
He says after that, the engine will give more power after every new tank.
3.- For 20% Nitro, use .20 head shim and N° 7 Glow plug.

Which means that Break-In should be done with more or less 300 to 500cc of fuel.

AFM

hopefully i'll be breaking it in next week some time, but like i said the conrod posts and the fued you had with palarimis or what ever the name was just makes me want to make sure i break it in right, i dont have the money to kill a $200 motor. your advice has been the best!