Team Associated RC8Be Thread
04-03-2011 | 01:12 PM
#5281
When this has happened (on clay) I'll switch the rear tires to a knobbier tread so I can slide instead of roll.
04-03-2011 | 01:20 PM
#5282
[QUOTE=WPNpipSTAR;8907242]
It really depends on where you want to race and what you want to accomplish. The main heat killer in a motor/esc is gearing. You should have no problem running a 1900kv Tekin T8 on 4s geared 19/20-46.
When you consider all the things that people are telling you, remember this. The only Battery packs approved by ROAR (sanctioned racing) for 1/8th buggy are 4S hard case (roar approved sticker) packs. If you fill your pit bag up with 5-6S packs, that's fine. But never plan on racing in a ROAR event until they change this. 1700-2050kv is the moat common setup, 1900 being probably the most popular setup. 2650 is way too much for just about any track you won't use the top end. And the 1700 being more for smaller tracks. Quick throttle torque for tight corners immediately followed by jumps. 2650 would have more lag and less torque for the jumps.
Thanks, if you don't have a painter, check out Hitaslice. He also shipped them from North Carolina in 2 days! 
I actually like it better than 1/8th
That's mainly preference. But, we can get you headed in the right direction.
Most common are Castle Mamba Monster 1800-2200. Or Tekin RX8 T8 combo. Anywhere from 1700kv to 2050 for the track. 4S being the most popular battery size. Pinion gears range from 18T to 21T for these.[/QUOTE
From what I have been reading and trying to pry from the heads of more experienced racers it seems like everyone keeps telling me to use a higher KV motor due go being able to run higher voltge batteries while keeping the motor cool and around 30k rpm.
But it seems like your saying the lower KV motors are more popular ? And people are running 4s and keeping the motor cool at the same time?
What's the bennifet or difference between a 1700KV motor (example) vs a 2650kv motor ?
Everyone says the lower KV gives you more torque an the higher KV gives you more speed.
I would really like a straight answer if anyone can lay in down for me.
I actually like it better than 1/8th
That's mainly preference. But, we can get you headed in the right direction.
Most common are Castle Mamba Monster 1800-2200. Or Tekin RX8 T8 combo. Anywhere from 1700kv to 2050 for the track. 4S being the most popular battery size. Pinion gears range from 18T to 21T for these.[/QUOTE
From what I have been reading and trying to pry from the heads of more experienced racers it seems like everyone keeps telling me to use a higher KV motor due go being able to run higher voltge batteries while keeping the motor cool and around 30k rpm.
But it seems like your saying the lower KV motors are more popular ? And people are running 4s and keeping the motor cool at the same time?
What's the bennifet or difference between a 1700KV motor (example) vs a 2650kv motor ?
Everyone says the lower KV gives you more torque an the higher KV gives you more speed.
I would really like a straight answer if anyone can lay in down for me.
When you consider all the things that people are telling you, remember this. The only Battery packs approved by ROAR (sanctioned racing) for 1/8th buggy are 4S hard case (roar approved sticker) packs. If you fill your pit bag up with 5-6S packs, that's fine. But never plan on racing in a ROAR event until they change this. 1700-2050kv is the moat common setup, 1900 being probably the most popular setup. 2650 is way too much for just about any track you won't use the top end. And the 1700 being more for smaller tracks. Quick throttle torque for tight corners immediately followed by jumps. 2650 would have more lag and less torque for the jumps.
04-03-2011 | 02:43 PM
#5283
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 147
Wing
Thanks Greg for the info. Yes the wing is distorted, about a 10mm twist.
Is there enough clearance with the spur gear if i take out the riser ? What do you mean about the screws being flat heads? The screws that are provided just need to be shortened by the thickness of the riser don't they?
Anthony.
Is there enough clearance with the spur gear if i take out the riser ? What do you mean about the screws being flat heads? The screws that are provided just need to be shortened by the thickness of the riser don't they?
Anthony.
04-03-2011 | 02:52 PM
#5284
Thanks Greg for the info. Yes the wing is distorted, about a 10mm twist.
Is there enough clearance with the spur gear if i take out the riser ? What do you mean about the screws being flat heads? The screws that are provided just need to be shortened by the thickness of the riser don't they?
Anthony.
Is there enough clearance with the spur gear if i take out the riser ? What do you mean about the screws being flat heads? The screws that are provided just need to be shortened by the thickness of the riser don't they?
Anthony.
04-03-2011 | 04:52 PM
#5285
[QUOTE=GreggW;8907293]
It really depends on where you want to race and what you want to accomplish. The main heat killer in a motor/esc is gearing. You should have no problem running a 1900kv Tekin T8 on 4s geared 19/20-46.
When you consider all the things that people are telling you, remember this. The only Battery packs approved by ROAR (sanctioned racing) for 1/8th buggy are 4S hard case (roar approved sticker) packs. If you fill your pit bag up with 5-6S packs, that's fine. But never plan on racing in a ROAR event until they change this. 1700-2050kv is the moat common setup, 1900 being probably the most popular setup. 2650 is way too much for just about any track you won't use the top end. And the 1700 being more for smaller tracks. Quick throttle torque for tight corners immediately followed by jumps. 2650 would have more lag and less torque for the jumps.
Ok well I like racing at my local track, clay track medium size with slot of tight and sharp turns. I don't want to loose to much top end because there are some long straight aways .
What do you recommend ?
It really depends on where you want to race and what you want to accomplish. The main heat killer in a motor/esc is gearing. You should have no problem running a 1900kv Tekin T8 on 4s geared 19/20-46.
When you consider all the things that people are telling you, remember this. The only Battery packs approved by ROAR (sanctioned racing) for 1/8th buggy are 4S hard case (roar approved sticker) packs. If you fill your pit bag up with 5-6S packs, that's fine. But never plan on racing in a ROAR event until they change this. 1700-2050kv is the moat common setup, 1900 being probably the most popular setup. 2650 is way too much for just about any track you won't use the top end. And the 1700 being more for smaller tracks. Quick throttle torque for tight corners immediately followed by jumps. 2650 would have more lag and less torque for the jumps.
Ok well I like racing at my local track, clay track medium size with slot of tight and sharp turns. I don't want to loose to much top end because there are some long straight aways .
What do you recommend ?
04-03-2011 | 05:07 PM
#5286
[QUOTE=WPNpipSTAR;8908107]Tekin 1900kv or Castle 1800kv, on 4S, plenty of power and torque for any medium track.
04-03-2011 | 07:11 PM
#5287
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Street test today.
Street test today started off rough, but ended well! 1. didn't realize there is a "display" mode, and a "tx" mode on my 4pl. I had it on the "display" mode, and I was wondering why my Tx wasn't communicating with the Rx. Idiot mistake #1. 2. As soon as I began pulling the trigger, the car stopped dead and I hear some r...attling. It was the front drive shaft. It came off because the set screw wasn't tight. The bearing from the front diff was about 10 feet away on the road. Once I got THAT fixed - - - very successful street test (with the street tires). I was drifting this thing! Drifting.... It didn't have a high top speed comparable to my E-revo VXL; but the take off was smooth and driving the same. I think it's going to be a force to be reckon with on the track this year!
The body does interfere with the steering linkage. Just need to take a snip off. This week will be more testing in a few rougher conditions to see what else I can shake loose.
The body does interfere with the steering linkage. Just need to take a snip off. This week will be more testing in a few rougher conditions to see what else I can shake loose.
04-03-2011 | 09:18 PM
#5288
Ok check this out hopefully it answers all of your questions. I still have some editing to do with it, but you get the idea.
| + YouTube Video | |
Last edited by GreggW; 04-03-2011 at 10:17 PM.
04-04-2011 | 05:43 AM
#5289
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 891
From: Erie
very sweet
like that mount just wish I had the money to get one
I am going to work on modding the stock one for now later this week
looked at 2 of them that had minor machine work to hold the screws in place
the grid mount is very nice for quick changing motors but the pinion change still looks kinda crappy plus the wait for loc tite to dry
oh well all part of the game
had my buggy on my track saturday and let me say it is awesome on 4s
the turnigy battery worked great ran it 2 times
charged it at 5amps and it worked great both times with about 15 minutes of run time
like that mount just wish I had the money to get one
I am going to work on modding the stock one for now later this week
looked at 2 of them that had minor machine work to hold the screws in place
the grid mount is very nice for quick changing motors but the pinion change still looks kinda crappy plus the wait for loc tite to dry
oh well all part of the game
had my buggy on my track saturday and let me say it is awesome on 4s
the turnigy battery worked great ran it 2 times
charged it at 5amps and it worked great both times with about 15 minutes of run time
04-04-2011 | 06:20 AM
#5290
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Suspension
New question guys: ( I think )
I did my street test yesterday. Went very well. But I'm not off the street yet and don't want to be because my suspension is really droopy.
I tossed around the idea of stiffer springs, but that will just increase my spring rate. I bought some thicker shock oil (27.5 for the rear and 32.5 in the front) - I haven't put that in yet, but I'm sure that will help the landings...
Actually my question comes in here: how many threads from bottom to top are you guys setting your spring compression? I was thinking of bringing all of them down to around 4-6 threads above the utmost bottom thread. I'm curious to hear what you guys have set yours at and if you have any further suspension set up advice?
I'm fishing for some inside set up advice with it because Ross (as good as he is with his suspension) isn't letting all of his secrets out (trying to keep that competitive edge LOL)
I did my street test yesterday. Went very well. But I'm not off the street yet and don't want to be because my suspension is really droopy.
I tossed around the idea of stiffer springs, but that will just increase my spring rate. I bought some thicker shock oil (27.5 for the rear and 32.5 in the front) - I haven't put that in yet, but I'm sure that will help the landings...
Actually my question comes in here: how many threads from bottom to top are you guys setting your spring compression? I was thinking of bringing all of them down to around 4-6 threads above the utmost bottom thread. I'm curious to hear what you guys have set yours at and if you have any further suspension set up advice?
I'm fishing for some inside set up advice with it because Ross (as good as he is with his suspension) isn't letting all of his secrets out (trying to keep that competitive edge LOL)
04-04-2011 | 08:03 AM
#5291
I will help you with your suspension... after you marshall one of our 1/5 off road bike classes...
04-04-2011 | 08:18 AM
#5292
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
I have yet to test it on dirt yet, but the drag brake seems a bit low. It stopped in about... 3-5 feet from full throttle.
I'll have to give it another look... do an actual marker test.
04-04-2011 | 10:18 AM
#5293
Ive been watching the E-buggy class grow quite significantly around here and have decided I want to jump on the bandwagon. Being a long time RC8 driver and current RC8TCE owner the RC8BE is a logical choice for me. The question is about the electronics. I really have no clue and the KV stuff has me a little confused. I know Im going to want to run 4S lipos so what KV motor should I be looking for. Ive been looking at the 2200KV Mamba system. I want reliability first and foremost and secondly I want insane HP. I run at all kinds of different tracks in a season so I figure I get something from the middle to fast end of the spectrum and do the rest with gearing and settings.
04-04-2011 | 11:17 AM
#5294
Ive been watching the E-buggy class grow quite significantly around here and have decided I want to jump on the bandwagon. Being a long time RC8 driver and current RC8TCE owner the RC8BE is a logical choice for me. The question is about the electronics. I really have no clue and the KV stuff has me a little confused. I know Im going to want to run 4S lipos so what KV motor should I be looking for. Ive been looking at the 2200KV Mamba system. I want reliability first and foremost and secondly I want insane HP. I run at all kinds of different tracks in a season so I figure I get something from the middle to fast end of the spectrum and do the rest with gearing and settings.
Pinion gears range from 18-21 tooth. Anything smaller would be undergeared.