I have no doubt there is a difference Gregg, I'm just not so sure I'm good enough of a driver to feel or see the difference. Obviously, counterweight is the answer to setting a good equilibrium, --- so I guess the weight concerns are out the window.

Won't something as small as the magnets and clay inside the rims for tire balancing also throw the weight off? I'd imagine finding a good balance is going to be tough; and ever changing with each time you take it out for a weekend of racing.

Balanced car if prefered for best possible handling but hard to tell with very minimal weight diferences especially with off road rc...but in oval racing is very much needed!!

True, you may only use the scales a few times, but Id like to see how much of a difference a 4S pack and a 6S pack are. I can always add something to the other side. Mine seems to jump pretty straight though too.

Most people probably don't do it but as you can see 100g heavier to one side and the car will be prone to drift when turning in The opposite way. It's not needed really but I do think it helps.

The down side to this method is the tires
need to be in the exact center, 1/4 inch off and it will appear to be 30to40g's off. I just like to know how the balance is, I'm no pro or anything.

I keep my cars very clean and only run indoor clay. But your correct dirt in the wheels will change the balance. I'm not that hardcore. Lol!

As closely as people pay attention to alignment and whatnot, I would be surprised if not many people corner weight their cars. Seems like it would be much easier than corner weighting a full scale car.

You think a 1/1 is hard. Try an F16. Lol

At least you don't have sway bars on an F16.

True!

How close do you have to get the weights, and what does an F16 typically weigh?? What do you have to do to change the weight distribution?

The weights are pretty close. You have to do a complete weight and balance if you do so much as add or remove paint. Weights depend on what's loaded on the aircraft. Though most of them I have done were empty with 2 degrees nose up. 18,700 pounds empty. Depending on block and model.

Like everybody else I'm having a hard time deciding between the 1900 and 2050. I have a 225 ft. track at home but will do most of my racing on a very small outdoor track, maybe a little over 100 ft. Can either one of these motors really do both well?? Will I just eventually need to have both??

I thought I had decided on the 1900 as that's what most seem to say is the all around best and ordered a 19 and 20 hot bodies pinion to start with. No set screw comes with them???? Never seen that before, maybe it's a 1/8th thing, which I'm new to.

It's really tough to differentiate between the two. The 1900 is going to be smoother, while the 2050 is going to have more overall power. Either motor would be perfect for the track. You will be able to fine tune more with different pinions.

Maybe this will help.

Get the 1900, especially if you will be running on a small track which 100 ft is. The 2050 can be a hand full on a really small track. The 1900 will also work great on your larger track.

If you were to run only on the track with a 100 foot straight, and not a larger track, the 1700 would probably be an even better choice.

And getting the 1700, for more power, you can always run 5s. Saw a guy this past weekend running like that. Very interesting.