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Old 02-22-2011 | 07:27 AM
  #3271  
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I run 21 tooth. 18-21 is recommended. 18 being a little undergeared.
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Old 02-22-2011 | 07:28 AM
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The mmp is sensor-ed and should work fine in 8th scale, Id probably stick to 4s though, as I heard the BEC is kinda weak on it.

The MMM is not sensored and rated for higher amps.
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Old 02-22-2011 | 07:31 AM
  #3273  
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Originally Posted by tonyv2382
Ok sounds good. In general I prefer running a sensored system so it will probably be a 1900 rx8, god Im going to get so much flak for buying another tekin product lol. Any way, how about gearing for that system? I know its mostly dependant on track size etc but what is a good round about start point? And does the kit actually come with a pinion or no? Cuz the nitro kits usually come with a clutch bell, Im wondering if the same holds true for the 8th electric stuff

Depending track size....a good start with a 1900kv is 19/46 nice to have in you toolbox pinions 18-22
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Old 02-22-2011 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by GreggW
I run 21 tooth. 18-21 is recommended. 18 being a little undergeared.
Very good thanks for the info.
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Old 02-22-2011 | 07:37 AM
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have u guys run an mmp with good results on an 8th scale? Im assuming with that ur gonna need a sensored motor to pair it up with. Those escs really stay cool on an 8th aplication?
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Old 02-22-2011 | 07:40 AM
  #3276  
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mmp is offered in the 8th scale sc8e rtr by associated, with the 2200kv castle / neu motor. So they much think it's enough.

the mmp can be both sensored and sensorless so motor choice doesnt matter.
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Old 02-22-2011 | 07:50 AM
  #3277  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
I was thinking about that when he mentioned it yesterday. 1/10th is a totally different animal. I don't know anyone running anything besides MMM or Tekin.
Hobbywing 150a ---- the shinny blue ESC. Not the black one.

I'm choosing this as a cheap alternative on a backup ESC if the Tekin Shiznits the bed.
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Old 02-22-2011 | 07:54 AM
  #3278  
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Originally Posted by agarabaghi
mmp is offered in the 8th scale sc8e rtr by associated, with the 2200kv castle / neu motor. So they much think it's enough.

the mmp can be both sensored and sensorless so motor choice doesnt matter.
I believe the ESC may be sensored / sensorless in the 1/10th arena, but sensorless only for 1/8th scale. I know you were referencing the motor; but I think Tony was asking about the ESC's .

And yes, you may choose any mmp motor you want and they are capable of sensored or sensorless operation. But if you want sensored operation, you need a Tekin.
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Old 02-22-2011 | 08:02 AM
  #3279  
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Originally Posted by per4m28
Depending track size....a good start with a 1900kv is 19/46 nice to have in you toolbox pinions 18-22
+1

Originally Posted by GreggW
I run 21 tooth. 18-21 is recommended. 18 being a little undergeared.
I'm running a 19T. 20T also safe. I don't know what your temps run gregg, but I'd assume in the 140 - 150 range yes?

21 - I wouldn't go more than that or you're pushing over geared territory and will face temp issues.

Better to run cool than run overly fast. (IMO)
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Old 02-22-2011 | 08:36 AM
  #3280  
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Originally Posted by tonyv2382
have u guys run an mmp with good results on an 8th scale? Im assuming with that ur gonna need a sensored motor to pair it up with. Those escs really stay cool on an 8th aplication?
I run one in my RC8Be whenver my Tekin isn't working. Runs very well and temps stay low. Running 4s with a 1900 Tekin motor geared 46/19-20.

You can run sensored or sensorless 1/8 scale motors. What really matters is how you set up the esc. CHEAT mode is generally not recommended for mod motors or larger 1/8 scale motors.
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Old 02-22-2011 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by SEF
I run one in my RC8Be whenver my Tekin isn't working. Runs very well and temps stay low. Running 4s with a 1900 Tekin motor geared 46/19-20.

You can run sensored or sensorless 1/8 scale motors. What really matters is how you set up the esc. CHEAT mode is generally not recommended for mod motors or larger 1/8 scale motors.
LoL...Whenever the tekin isnt working. Thats the kind of stuff im talking about and experienced myself.
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Old 02-22-2011 | 10:43 AM
  #3282  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
And the height isn't limitless. You still need to fit the shell on the car.
Of course, i forgot that. I am spoiled with my rallybody, i am sure i can stack 3 or 4 batteries before it touches the roof

Originally Posted by 117
They're probably trying to do you a favor.
Now that made me lol!
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Old 02-22-2011 | 12:51 PM
  #3283  
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My Whip RC8BE TEKNO V4! I moved my esc back a little since this pic and zip tied it! Scary close to the pinion. Also balanced it out better, these are the initial photos after assy.
V4 chassis, RX8 1900kvT8, 5s batt's, lunsford pins and buckles, team Hubs, light weight stubs, Jconcepts wing ect ect... the car is always changing!
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated RC8Be Thread-rc8be-tekno-v4.jpg   Team Associated RC8Be Thread-rc8be-tekno-v4-layout.jpg   Team Associated RC8Be Thread-tekno-v4-rc8be.jpg  
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Old 02-22-2011 | 12:53 PM
  #3284  
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back right seems a bit heavy how come?
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Old 02-22-2011 | 02:14 PM
  #3285  
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Originally Posted by Jstall7543
My Whip RC8BE TEKNO V4! I moved my esc back a little since this pic and zip tied it! Scary close to the pinion. Also balanced it out better, these are the initial photos after assy.
V4 chassis, RX8 1900kvT8, 5s batt's, lunsford pins and buckles, team Hubs, light weight stubs, Jconcepts wing ect ect... the car is always changing!
What's something like that scale setup cost?
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