True, true...

dudes! I really appreciate the resource that this thread is because of all of the info that is shared. awesome!

I'm wanting to tear my rc8 down and rebuild it so I had a couple questions:

1. can you be more detailed on "sanding the diff cups please?
2. could you post a link to the mugen gaskets?
3. I'm running the tekno conversion so it has a sweet mount already, otherwise I'd get the grid.

Let me know if there is anything else you need. Check this page here, I skimmed through it, hopefully this is all you need.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-rc8be-65.html

thanks so much Gregg! Looks like they need to be sanded to make room for the slightly bigger gasket.
Getting a plan and an order together.

i tried to warn you about that servo arm.i bought the same one and upon inspecting it before install i noticed the 2 side clamp screws were to short and the stripped just trying to snug them before i put it on.i bought the good old canadian one from gh racing and its sweet.no problems at all.will we ever learn not to buy integy.garbage,garbage,garbage.the allan wrench set isnt to bad,but stay away from hop up parts from integy!!!!!

Sod the Integy, went for this one instead and its spot on...(AnswerRC)




As for centring the servo, i just adjusted the turnbuckle. Don't know if thats a god thing or not but don't see how it could effect the greater scheme of things. Never knew about this EPA (end point adjustment???). Anyone got a link to some decent vids for setting up the car once built?

Another thing, the fan on my RX8 runs for the 1st few seconds of startup then doesn't go on again. Just checking to see if it has automatic switching or if somethings up.

Any recommendations for a decent ride height and camber gauge?

Yes you called it. I actually bought another one which said it was smaller, but it ended up being the same one. But this one comes with 12.9 cap screws. But it's the threads that are weak. So it too, is going back.

Looks pretty beefy Doug, where in the world did you get that Servo? That's supposed to be one of the good ones! And yes I watched your video, all you hear is that servo straining hitting the stops. Definitely adjust the EPAs.

http://www.rcracer.com/radios-charge...ust-your-radio

And the fan is fine, mine does the same thing. I ran it for 20 minutes and the motor was 158 degrees F and the esc was only 84 degrees F. I sat it on the bench with it on and every few seconds the fan would come on then shut off.

Servo came from Wheelspin Models (uk) and was actually cheaper than the AE.

Just had the car out on its 1st run. The back end is just crazy. Can do a 360 on the spot on asphalt thanks to a wet road and Proline road rage tyres.(tires..). Still can't get over the toe in on the rear but it's not adjustable from what i gather so no changing it. As you say the EPA defo needs adjusted and the throttle's quite savage at the moment. Might change the drag brake as well as i think the std setting is nil. All seems good though. Just a shame i clipped the side of a bin and snapped one of the rear hingepins. Ordered up a spare set but think i might fork out for some Lunsford Ti pins at some point. Just happy its all running sweetly!

You broke it already!? You're as bad as me! and I think with the AE, you're probably paying a little for the name. But the lifetime warranty does it all for me.

And you haven't seen power until you put a 6S pack in it!

Get those EPAs adjusted! I replied to your Tekin thread too.

Yeah, probably a dumb idea taking it out on a narrow back road in the damp for the 1st time... On the bright side ordering new pins gave me an excuse to get Losi ride height and camber gauges. Was tempted by the Ansmann setup station but thought i'd learn to walk before run 1st!

You can adjust the rear toe by changing the inserts on the D-plate. I have mine set to 1 degree toe in on the rear, whereas the manual sets you up for 3 degrees toe in on the rear. I'm actually very surprised that these cars run so much toe in on the rear. I imagine this is to keep rear end stability on bumpy tracks and likely makes the car handle more predictably on corner exit.

Doug, you want the servo horn to the parallel to the arm on the steering rack that connects to the turnbuckle. That will keep the steering more linear across the servo horn's arc (this is one reason why I don't care for cars with a steering rack like the RC8's, but with the servo laying on its side).

Take a look at the setup videos on YouTube for the RC8. There is a section that discusses steering. I set mine up like that and it works great.

If you plan to use the Mugen gasket, I would sand a little extra. If you're using the AE gasket, just sand enough to get the matte finish on the diff cup. When you start sanding, you'll notice that there are areas where the diff cup is still shiny and areas that are matte. That's due to the lack of flatness of the flange on the diff cup. Keep sanding until it's all matte. I have some pictures somewhere in this thread.

ive never seen so many people have issues with servo horns haha

+1 stock plastic servo horn and 80.00 savox servo working great...