Oh, NOW i see! I don't know why, but i thought the bearing was larger than the motoraxle, so that the shank of the piniongear was to go inside the bearing. Very nice construction anyway, i like the extra support it provides (or the thought of it as i don't one this mount yet )

I want one!!

where are yall ordering the grid mount from?

www.gridrc.com

Hey guys, I'm back for real now. Last week we were at the "happiest place on Earth! (aka Disney World)" Fun trip, but it really wears you out!! Glad to be back, but not looking forward to work tomorrow.

Anyway, I had a bunch of stuff come in while I was gone, so I'm doing a bit of work on the car today. I'll post some pictures later. Right now, I'm working on installing the RX8. A couple of minor observations.

The documentation for the HotWire software is seriously lacking. I still need to do some research on how to set the custom voltage cutoff. I'm not crazy about an 18V 6S and 12V 4S cutoff. However, from what I read online before my purchase, one could set the voltage per cell for the cutoff, like the MMM software. From what I've seen of the Tekin user interface, though, you have to set the overall voltage cutoff. So in order to use 3.2V per cell for 6S and 4S, one must connect the ESC to the HotWire module and manually change the voltage cutoff. That's no problem for someone who runs all the same size (voltage-wise) packs, but I have 5S and 6S packs with a bunch of 4S packs on the way. I think the user interface could use some work, as I prefer to type my settings in, not use up or down arrows or click on up/down arrows in the GUI. There are some places where you can type settings into the GUI, but not many (unless I'm doing something wrong, which is possible, due to the lack of documentation).

Also, I'm missing a fan screw, and for some reason Tekin included two M3 x 8mm screws along with two 6-32 x 3/8 screws. The end bell actually uses 3mm and 4mm screws. The 6-32 screws WILL fit into the 4mm holes, but will cause a very slight amount of damage to the threads (don't ask me how I know). When I first opened the package, I thought that the larger screws looked really odd. Anyway, I was dumb enough to try them and damaged one of the 4mm screw holes on the end bell.

To make a long story short, I mounted the Grid motor mount plate with the end bell removed from the T8 motor and found that 8mm screws do not engage all of the threads on the end bell. I went by the hardware store and bought some M3 x 10mm screws along with some M4 x 10mm screws. Everything fits the Grid mount fine. Although, I will mention that the Grid mount is a tad tight around the screw heads, and I found that the M4 x 10mm button head screws that I bought were binding on the Grid mount (the hole that is closest to the edge). The problem appears to be the lack of concentricity of the button head to the axis of the screw. Mine must not have been that great, as there was quite a bit of runout on the head. Fortunately, I have a small lathe, so I was able to turn the OD of the button head down a bit. Now everything fits like a glove.

Also, the motor shaft on the Neu motors is quite a bit longer than the Tekin T8s. A regular M1 pinion will fit on the Neu motors with the Grid mount, no problem, but would likely not fit with the Tekin motors. I am using Hot Bodies M1 pinions, and the pinion is almost flush with the end of the shaft on the T8.

I'm also working on shortening my steering servo wire. I found that my pimpy (i.e. expensive) Honda pin crimper works awesome on the A Main Futaba servo connector kit, and I'm able to make crimps that look darn near factory. So I'm going to shorten my steering servo wire and make an extension for the RX8 that's just the perfect length.

Finally, I'm replacing the caps on my front shocks due to some damage. I removed the shocks from the car and put them in my pimpy (i.e. cardboard) shock holder. To do so, I had to remove the springs and pull the shock boot down. There is a noticeable amount of clean oil residue on the inside of the shock boot. Anyone else notice this? Is this fairly normal, or should I rebuild the shocks completely?

Finally, I'm also going to get the Ofna belted slicks mounted. I'll be sure to take some pictures. Everything looks well made, but I'm not crazy about the two-piece foam inserts that you have to cut to fit. Also, the rubber used in the tires is very soft, but it stinks. Like stinks bad. Really bad!

Sounds like you've been doing some work Billy. I'm just packing up to leave the track. Here's how my day went.

Batteries: 6 used
Parts broken: both plastic wing standoffs are toast. I.e gone. On the track somewhere. And last but not least. 1 broken XP DS1015. MY STEERING SERVO IS TRASHED

Lasted 1 trip to the track. Sad.

Ok, I found two more 6-32 screws in the Tekin box. It looks like those were for the fan, as the fan was not mounted, and none of the other supplied screws fit the fan.

I also bought 10ga wire from A Main (Viper brand), and it's a heck of a lot thicker than the 12ga that comes with the RX8. It's not just the thicker insulation, but the wire itself looks like either the Tekin is smaller than 12ga or the Viper is larger than 10ga. Either way, the 10ga stuff doesn't work well with the posts on the RX8, so I just used the supplied Tekin 12ga wire.

So my overall impression is that the ESC is very, very smooth. The 2050kV motor has TONS of speed with my 6S pack. I knew my front street tires were having issues, but during my test drive, I blew the inside bead on one front tire. I'm sure it would have happened with the MMM as well, but it was funny that the first time out, the Tekin blows one of my tires.

I really don't like the manner in which voltage cutoff is set, and I don't like the solder posts on the ESC or motor; however I like it enough that I can overlook those faults.

So, anyone interested in an almost new MMM with a brand new 2200kV motor and an almost new 1800kV New 1512 motor? Seriously.

Sorry to hear that Gregg! 1 trip to the track and the servo is toast...that sucks! What do you think it is; stripped gears?

My Savox has survived a couple of nasty wrecks, both of them being multiple cartwheels down the street. Oops...

I'll post some pics tonight Gregg.

Sh!t, not good. Let me know what the deal is with the servo as if it's no good i'll send mine back before fitting and get a 7955! Looks like the alu standoffs are the way ahead. Not so bad as the wing mount kit with the alu standoff's ain't too expensive.

Hey Billy, do you find the FT braces make a difference with the car?

Yeah it looks stripped somewhere inside. It's a strong servo and I was hit, crashed more times than you can imagine. Flipped over more than you can imagine. Cartwheeled a ton of times. So if you are a good driver it's a good servo. Lol

Told you the 7955 was the way to go! That does really suck though, sorry man not a cheap part to replace for sure.

This'll be the 1st car i've driven in years so 'good' may be a tad optimistic!

It has really good specs. Among the best. So maybe it's got something to do with crashing. Funny thing is though. Thats all I broke besides the wing mount standoffs. Which were ripped completely out. I'll take a look at the 7955. But this thing is under warranty. So they will definitely fix it. Problem is, is it going to be enough servo or was this just a fluke!?

Yeah I know. I'll check it out. If it has the same specs, I may as well stick with this one.

Not sure about the DS1015 but the 7955 has Ti gears which should be vastly stronger (and lighter).

Savox SC-1258TG that I'm using in my car also uses Ti gears.