Team Associated RC8Be Thread
01-31-2011 | 01:28 AM
#1741
1/8 servo needs
For a 1/8th scale like the rc8be you need more torque than speed right? Also is it true that if a buggy has more of a wide chassis like the rc8be does it not have as good handling?
01-31-2011 | 04:27 AM
#1743
Now as far as wide chassis goes, the chassis should only have to do with the weight and design of the buggy. Not saying it doesnt have anything to do with handling at all, but the length of the suspension arms would play more of a role in the handling. Wide is good. Narrow and you're prone to flipping. I have never gone around the corner with mine and had it tumble from being too narrow. The RC8Be is a great handling buggy.
01-31-2011 | 05:24 AM
#1745
I hope yours was a fluke Gregg. As for specs, the Savox I'm using is 0.08 sec/60 degrees and 166 oz*in of torque @ 6V. It's a bit noisy, but that's not too big of a deal to me, although it can be rather annoying when adjusting the alignment on a setup station.
Also Gregg, I noticed that Integy has aluminum caster blocks for the RC8 as well. Not sure if that's really necessary, but it would be nice if someone could come up with a caster block to take all the play out of the steering knuckles. The steering rack is so well made and slop-free, that it's a shame the steering blocks knuckles have so much play in the caster blocks.
BTW, I put a few 4mm shims on the front upper A-arm pins and a few 3mm shims on the rear outer hinge pins and was able to remove all the play from those areas.
agarabaghi, take your time and implement many of the suggestions in this thread and you'll be set.
I was able to mount my new body last night. I'll post pics when I get home from work.
Also Gregg, I noticed that Integy has aluminum caster blocks for the RC8 as well. Not sure if that's really necessary, but it would be nice if someone could come up with a caster block to take all the play out of the steering knuckles. The steering rack is so well made and slop-free, that it's a shame the steering blocks knuckles have so much play in the caster blocks.
BTW, I put a few 4mm shims on the front upper A-arm pins and a few 3mm shims on the rear outer hinge pins and was able to remove all the play from those areas.
agarabaghi, take your time and implement many of the suggestions in this thread and you'll be set.
I was able to mount my new body last night. I'll post pics when I get home from work.
01-31-2011 | 05:27 AM
#1747
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,775
From: Orlando / Maitland, FL
Radio: Dx3s w/ SR300 rx
Lipos: Turnigy 4s 5000mAh / Turnigy 4s 4500mAh / Blue 4s 5000mAh
Servo: JR 9000t
Motor: Castle / Neu 2650
ESC: Mamba Monster
Hop-ups: FT Alum chassis braces / Steel 46t spur
Shock fluid: 37wt front / 27wt rear
Diff: 10 / 7 / 5 (f/c/r) (but im not 100% sure on this)
Tires: Stock Hole Shots for now, might pick up some mounted calibers eventually
01-31-2011 | 05:28 AM
#1748
I hope yours was a fluke Gregg. As for specs, the Savox I'm using is 0.08 sec/60 degrees and 166 oz*in of torque @ 6V. It's a bit noisy, but that's not too big of a deal to me, although it can be rather annoying when adjusting the alignment on a setup station.
agarabaghi, take your time and implement many of the suggestions in this thread and you'll be set.
I was able to mount my new body last night. I'll post pics when I get home from work.
agarabaghi, take your time and implement many of the suggestions in this thread and you'll be set.
I was able to mount my new body last night. I'll post pics when I get home from work.
01-31-2011 | 05:34 AM
#1749
Radio: Dx3s w/ SR300 rx
Lipos: Turnigy 4s 5000mAh / Turnigy 4s 4500mAh / Blue 4s 5000mAh
Servo: JR 9000t
Motor: Castle / Neu 2650
ESC: Mamba Monster
Hop-ups: FT Alum chassis braces / Steel 46t spur
Shock fluid: 37wt front / 27wt rear
Diff: 10 / 7 / 5 (f/c/r) (but im not 100% sure on this)
Tires: Stock Hole Shots for now, might pick up some mounted calibers eventually
Lipos: Turnigy 4s 5000mAh / Turnigy 4s 4500mAh / Blue 4s 5000mAh
Servo: JR 9000t
Motor: Castle / Neu 2650
ESC: Mamba Monster
Hop-ups: FT Alum chassis braces / Steel 46t spur
Shock fluid: 37wt front / 27wt rear
Diff: 10 / 7 / 5 (f/c/r) (but im not 100% sure on this)
Tires: Stock Hole Shots for now, might pick up some mounted calibers eventually
And my stock Holshots lasted about 4 full throttle bursts down the blacktop.
Probably order some stuff today. I completely lost all my plastic wing posts yesterday. Both of them broke off completely. I'll order the FT kit with the aluminum standoffs. I need to get a few other things too.
01-31-2011 | 05:41 AM
#1750
Gregg, I don't think so. I don't remember seeing that option on the HotWire interface. However, it does have a 6V 5A BEC, so it's a tad more voltage than the MMM, but I'm not sure what the current rating on the MMM is.
Before you buy a BEC, try installing a cap on the receiver.
After I get those 4S batteries in, and do a few more tweaks, I'm going to have to go do some practice laps to get the hang of track driving. I think I'm going to give racing a try then. My wife rolled her eyes at me when I mentioned giving it a try.
Before you buy a BEC, try installing a cap on the receiver.
After I get those 4S batteries in, and do a few more tweaks, I'm going to have to go do some practice laps to get the hang of track driving. I think I'm going to give racing a try then. My wife rolled her eyes at me when I mentioned giving it a try.
01-31-2011 | 05:45 AM
#1751
Agreed. Ask Lars; he says the steel spur drives him batty. I'd be very surprised to see someone strip the stock spur unless they had it WOT in the air and dropped the car onto the concrete.
01-31-2011 | 05:47 AM
#1752
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,775
From: Orlando / Maitland, FL
Sounds like a good setup. Are you going to race or just bash? That's a BIG motor to race with. And the steel spur will drive you crazy. It's extremely rare for the plastic one to give out even with Billy running his Tekin 2050 on 6S.
And my stock Holshots lasted about 4 full throttle bursts down the blacktop.
And my stock Holshots lasted about 4 full throttle bursts down the blacktop.
I run my sc8e with the steep spur and i love sound =P...
yea im a bit worried about the tires not lasting... but they never really do on the sc8e
01-31-2011 | 10:17 AM
#1753
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Bit of a question guys:
I'm assembling my RC8be and I have two questions: (fairly small)
Please reference the PDF instruction manual link:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...eft_manual.pdf
Page 9 Steering Block - when the CVA bone is secured in Steering Block, well, my left spins fairly freely, the right a bit choppy. Is this a big deal considering there will be 32k rpms pushing this? (I thought I might have got lock tite in there, maybe a drop onto the bearing, but barely anything if anything at all... I'm 99.9% sure no effect.)
Page 10 (the big question):
When the steering block is inserted into the caster block is there supposed to be any play side to side with the Steering block? I did insert the key bushing properly. The side to side play isn't exactly free flowing and the screw moves that secures the block bushing.
a. should there be any play in this?
b. and if there is some play, (movement side to side) does it matter?
From what I gather the steering block inside the caster shouldn't move. At all. But there is a little play. Is this a big deal?
I'm assembling my RC8be and I have two questions: (fairly small)
Please reference the PDF instruction manual link:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...eft_manual.pdf
Page 9 Steering Block - when the CVA bone is secured in Steering Block, well, my left spins fairly freely, the right a bit choppy. Is this a big deal considering there will be 32k rpms pushing this? (I thought I might have got lock tite in there, maybe a drop onto the bearing, but barely anything if anything at all... I'm 99.9% sure no effect.)
Page 10 (the big question):
When the steering block is inserted into the caster block is there supposed to be any play side to side with the Steering block? I did insert the key bushing properly. The side to side play isn't exactly free flowing and the screw moves that secures the block bushing.
a. should there be any play in this?
b. and if there is some play, (movement side to side) does it matter?
From what I gather the steering block inside the caster shouldn't move. At all. But there is a little play. Is this a big deal?
01-31-2011 | 10:20 AM
#1754
End Point Adjustment
jmackani, I used all four screws on the fan, tightened gently. After my test run, the fan was running with 2 LEDs lit for internal temp. I listened to it for a bit, as I was double checking the temp, and the fan sounded completely normal (i.e. it didn't sound like the blades were hitting anything). I'll double check tomorrow and maybe space the fan down a bit if there is a clearance issue.
As for the Ofna belted slicks, they're a PITA to mount. I looked on Ofna's site and found some instructions. You have to use foam glue (CA attacks the foam), and glue the narrow piece of foam to the wheel (the instructions say to peel the tape from the foam, and tape the foam in place, but the foam that came with the tires has no adhesive) and glue the ends together. For the main piece of foam, the ends need to be glued together, and it's installed in the tire. Finally, the tire is installed on the wheel. Yeah, easy, right? Since I have to use bands to hold the foam in place while the glue dries, it's going to take a few days to get these tires properly mounted. I'm going to have to go slow and be sure I'm doing it right as 4 of these tires is NOT cheap!!
jmackani, I used all four screws on the fan, tightened gently. After my test run, the fan was running with 2 LEDs lit for internal temp. I listened to it for a bit, as I was double checking the temp, and the fan sounded completely normal (i.e. it didn't sound like the blades were hitting anything). I'll double check tomorrow and maybe space the fan down a bit if there is a clearance issue.
As for the Ofna belted slicks, they're a PITA to mount. I looked on Ofna's site and found some instructions. You have to use foam glue (CA attacks the foam), and glue the narrow piece of foam to the wheel (the instructions say to peel the tape from the foam, and tape the foam in place, but the foam that came with the tires has no adhesive) and glue the ends together. For the main piece of foam, the ends need to be glued together, and it's installed in the tire. Finally, the tire is installed on the wheel. Yeah, easy, right? Since I have to use bands to hold the foam in place while the glue dries, it's going to take a few days to get these tires properly mounted. I'm going to have to go slow and be sure I'm doing it right as 4 of these tires is NOT cheap!!
01-31-2011 | 10:31 AM
#1755
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 169
god i hate when people say the 2650 is too big of a motor for the track just tone it down on your computer i got mine set up at 60 punch running a 4s battery and the thing is amazing on the track but im running the hyper 9e. I would way rather have a larger motor for when i wanna bash instead of running a smaller motor and have to run it on 6s