Team Associated RC8Be Thread
01-31-2011 | 11:09 AM
#1756
god i hate when people say the 2650 is too big of a motor for the track just tone it down on your computer i got mine set up at 60 punch running a 4s battery and the thing is amazing on the track but im running the hyper 9e. I would way rather have a larger motor for when i wanna bash instead of running a smaller motor and have to run it on 6s
There is a huge difference between a weekend basher that goes to the track and strong arms the car around the track with a big motor and someone that races with precision for the lowest lap times.
Last edited by GreggW; 01-31-2011 at 11:41 AM.
01-31-2011 | 11:38 AM
#1758
Mine are the same way. I think the right is a manufacturing defect. And my blocks are pretty loose. Scroll up some, Billy posted where he shimmed his up a little. When I get time, I may do this too.
Bit of a question guys:
I'm assembling my RC8be and I have two questions: (fairly small)
Please reference the PDF instruction manual link:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...eft_manual.pdf
Page 9 Steering Block - when the CVA bone is secured in Steering Block, well, my left spins fairly freely, the right a bit choppy. Is this a big deal considering there will be 32k rpms pushing this? (I thought I might have got lock tite in there, maybe a drop onto the bearing, but barely anything if anything at all... I'm 99.9% sure no effect.)
Page 10 (the big question):
When the steering block is inserted into the caster block is there supposed to be any play side to side with the Steering block? I did insert the key bushing properly. The side to side play isn't exactly free flowing and the screw moves that secures the block bushing.
a. should there be any play in this?
b. and if there is some play, (movement side to side) does it matter?
From what I gather the steering block inside the caster shouldn't move. At all. But there is a little play. Is this a big deal?
I'm assembling my RC8be and I have two questions: (fairly small)
Please reference the PDF instruction manual link:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...eft_manual.pdf
Page 9 Steering Block - when the CVA bone is secured in Steering Block, well, my left spins fairly freely, the right a bit choppy. Is this a big deal considering there will be 32k rpms pushing this? (I thought I might have got lock tite in there, maybe a drop onto the bearing, but barely anything if anything at all... I'm 99.9% sure no effect.)
Page 10 (the big question):
When the steering block is inserted into the caster block is there supposed to be any play side to side with the Steering block? I did insert the key bushing properly. The side to side play isn't exactly free flowing and the screw moves that secures the block bushing.
a. should there be any play in this?
b. and if there is some play, (movement side to side) does it matter?
From what I gather the steering block inside the caster shouldn't move. At all. But there is a little play. Is this a big deal?
01-31-2011 | 11:41 AM
#1759
Run the car for a battery or two, then check the hub bearings. Mine freed up significantly, and now there's a bit of play that wasn't there before. It doesn't seem to hurt anything, but I'd rather not have the additional play. I thought about using some higher quality bearings, but I have other stuff to do first. 
Side-to-side play in the steering block? Do you mean play that is parallel to the steering king pin axis (I think of that as more up-and-down play, rather than side-to-side)? If so, then that seems to be fairly normal. Mine was the same way. It's too bad that AE didn't try to use some type of bearing in the caster block. The steering rack is very well made and slop free. It would be nice if the caster blocks and steering knuckles were the same way.
Good luck with the build!
Side-to-side play in the steering block? Do you mean play that is parallel to the steering king pin axis (I think of that as more up-and-down play, rather than side-to-side)? If so, then that seems to be fairly normal. Mine was the same way. It's too bad that AE didn't try to use some type of bearing in the caster block. The steering rack is very well made and slop free. It would be nice if the caster blocks and steering knuckles were the same way.
Good luck with the build!
Bit of a question guys:
I'm assembling my RC8be and I have two questions: (fairly small)
Please reference the PDF instruction manual link:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...eft_manual.pdf
Page 9 Steering Block - when the CVA bone is secured in Steering Block, well, my left spins fairly freely, the right a bit choppy. Is this a big deal considering there will be 32k rpms pushing this? (I thought I might have got lock tite in there, maybe a drop onto the bearing, but barely anything if anything at all... I'm 99.9% sure no effect.)
Page 10 (the big question):
When the steering block is inserted into the caster block is there supposed to be any play side to side with the Steering block? I did insert the key bushing properly. The side to side play isn't exactly free flowing and the screw moves that secures the block bushing.
a. should there be any play in this?
b. and if there is some play, (movement side to side) does it matter?
From what I gather the steering block inside the caster shouldn't move. At all. But there is a little play. Is this a big deal?
I'm assembling my RC8be and I have two questions: (fairly small)
Please reference the PDF instruction manual link:
http://teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_a...eft_manual.pdf
Page 9 Steering Block - when the CVA bone is secured in Steering Block, well, my left spins fairly freely, the right a bit choppy. Is this a big deal considering there will be 32k rpms pushing this? (I thought I might have got lock tite in there, maybe a drop onto the bearing, but barely anything if anything at all... I'm 99.9% sure no effect.)
Page 10 (the big question):
When the steering block is inserted into the caster block is there supposed to be any play side to side with the Steering block? I did insert the key bushing properly. The side to side play isn't exactly free flowing and the screw moves that secures the block bushing.
a. should there be any play in this?
b. and if there is some play, (movement side to side) does it matter?
From what I gather the steering block inside the caster shouldn't move. At all. But there is a little play. Is this a big deal?
01-31-2011 | 11:44 AM
#1760
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
So far i really like how Associated gave us the tirods pre-assembled at the correct length. That's a plus. I hate trying to twist those end plastic pieces on. Just a neusense. Saved me some work.
01-31-2011 | 11:48 AM
#1762
price
Besides used which I don't want to do, right now what is the website that sells the rc8be factory team kit for the least amount. For the people who just bought their rc8be's where did you buy them???? Right now the lowest i have found was $329. just don't want to get ripped off.
01-31-2011 | 11:49 AM
#1763
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Run the car for a battery or two, then check the hub bearings. Mine freed up significantly, and now there's a bit of play that wasn't there before. It doesn't seem to hurt anything, but I'd rather not have the additional play. I thought about using some higher quality bearings, but I have other stuff to do first.
Side-to-side play in the steering block? Do you mean play that is parallel to the steering king pin axis (I think of that as more up-and-down play, rather than side-to-side)? If so, then that seems to be fairly normal. Mine was the same way. It's too bad that AE didn't try to use some type of bearing in the caster block. The steering rack is very well made and slop free. It would be nice if the caster blocks and steering knuckles were the same way.
Good luck with the build!
Side-to-side play in the steering block? Do you mean play that is parallel to the steering king pin axis (I think of that as more up-and-down play, rather than side-to-side)? If so, then that seems to be fairly normal. Mine was the same way. It's too bad that AE didn't try to use some type of bearing in the caster block. The steering rack is very well made and slop free. It would be nice if the caster blocks and steering knuckles were the same way.
Good luck with the build!
PS - the key bushing was a pain in the..... to line up.
01-31-2011 | 11:49 AM
#1764
I just had a thought...I could try turning down those steering king pin bushings in my lathe, but they're very tiny. I'm not sure I could accurately set them up in the chuck.
One could try sanding them down a bit, but that could take a long time (not to mention it would be difficult to hold them).
One could try sanding them down a bit, but that could take a long time (not to mention it would be difficult to hold them).
01-31-2011 | 11:50 AM
#1765
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Where you see it for that? ebay? Are you including the shipping cost?
01-31-2011 | 11:51 AM
#1766
$329? That's a heck of a price. Don't think you're going to find it cheaper than that anywhere. Where did you find it for $329?
01-31-2011 | 11:54 AM
#1767
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
01-31-2011 | 11:57 AM
#1768
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,030
From: Albany, NY
Btw Gregg,
I took a look at that diff case. Oh yeah... it's visible to the naked eye. The casing (you can tell) is definately machine cut. There is evidence of plastic burrs on each one of the diffs I built.
I took 600 grit sandpaper to all of them on a flat hard surface as suggested. I too think this will prevent any leak problems.
although, that paper gasket seems next to worthless, although, I know a very important part. I think it's promising there won't be any leaks. I didn't see reason to buy a new gasket.
I took a look at that diff case. Oh yeah... it's visible to the naked eye. The casing (you can tell) is definately machine cut. There is evidence of plastic burrs on each one of the diffs I built.
I took 600 grit sandpaper to all of them on a flat hard surface as suggested. I too think this will prevent any leak problems.
although, that paper gasket seems next to worthless, although, I know a very important part. I think it's promising there won't be any leaks. I didn't see reason to buy a new gasket.
01-31-2011 | 12:00 PM
#1770
setup
hey toyota 2jz just a few questions:
1.Is that a mamba max pro 1/10 scale esc (even though i pretty sure all mamba max pros are 1/10 scale)
2.what batteries do you use
3.whats the kv on the motor
1.Is that a mamba max pro 1/10 scale esc (even though i pretty sure all mamba max pros are 1/10 scale)
2.what batteries do you use
3.whats the kv on the motor