What pinion and esc timing are you running with that 1700?

For the 1700kv motor , I run the stock spur and a 20 pinion. I am running the timing at 10 on the RX8.

i just got my car put together with the RX8/T8 2050kv. if anyone else is running this combo, what kind of boost are you running?

I am in the process of rebuilding my shocks now, but before i get to the point to fill them up i am wondering about something in the manual on page 7 on the bladder installation; rebound!

It says if i install the caps with the shaft fully extended, i will get full rebound. What does this mean? And to run less rebound i have to set the shaft to the desired position. Has this got something to do with the stiffness on the shock, or where the stiffness "begins"?

Thanks in advance.

My understanding is that "rebound" refers to how far the shock shaft is pushed out (by hydraulic pressure within the shock) when you push the shock shaft in completely (i.e. fully compress the shock shaft into the shock body). You do this without anything attached to the shaft that could influence its movement (i.e. springs, dust cover, etc).

What I normally do is fill the shock with the piston fully extended, remove as much air as possible, then install the shock cap w/bladder. Then if the shock has too much rebound, just bleed the shock until you get the desired rebound.

117 is correct. If you take a shock and remove the springs and boots and compress the shaft all the way, the pressure within the shock body will naturally force the piston and shaft to return to some position. This is what people refer to as rebound.

You can adjust this rebound by simply filling your shock body with oil and placing the shock shaft at the desired rebound position, and then tighten the shock cap. If you want 1/2 rebound, then place the shock shaft in the middle prior to tightening your shock cap.

Things to note: 1) the rebound of the shocks should be the same on left and right sides. If you take both left and right shocks and push them all the way up and let go, they should rebound to the same location at about the same rate. If they don't then adjust the rebound. 2) You use rebound as an adjustment for various track conditions. If the track is rutted and bumpy, you generally want more rebound. If the track is smooth, less rebound. So if you dial in more rebound, the faster your shocks will respond to bumps giving a little more traction.

Hope that helps.

Wow! Thank you very much! This was more than i asked of Finally i got an understanding for this. Very helpful.

As this RC8e of mine has been converted to a rallycar i will use it mostly on asphalt and smooth surfaces, so then i dial in less or none rebound i think. Have to wait for the spring to come before i can test it properly...

Thanks again guys!

I was mostly talking about running a larger battery and detuning it.

I was talking about the first few posts in this thread.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...oar-rules.html

I had someone explain what rebound was to me once, but it was kind of confusing. Thanks for that explanation. Now I totally understand it. And thanks to the guy who asked the question

Does the center diff assembly fit without the center diff riser? With the recess machined into the chassis, it looks like there would be enough room for the spur gear, and with the Grid mount, the motor wouldn't touch the chassis. I'd just try it, but I thought maybe someone has already tried, so that would save me a bit of work.

not sure about that one. I havent tried it, but its the Nitro Chassis so I think the recess was for that portion of the buggy.

I was also wondering the same thing. The GRID mount does make it look raised enough with the 46 tooth spur.

Rebound can also be adjusted for the track based on the type of landings from the jumps. If they are flat, I normally run zero rebound to keep the car from bouncing on landing. If the landings are inclined properly then I will normally run 3/4 rebound. Full rebound on flat landings normally will cause the rear end to kick out when you land and make hard to control.

Ok, I didn't realize it was just 4 screws, so I tried it myself.

Spur gear fits fine. I need to measure the exact clearance, but the spur does hang down a tad lower than the diff mount, so the recess in the chassis is needed.

The stock screws are too long without the spacer installed, and the spacer is 4mm thick, so I need to go buy some 4mm shorter screws.

A couple of other noteworthy observations. There was what looked like a thin coating of oil (or something similar) on the chassis, but the diff is bone dry (thankfully). Maybe it's from the bearings?

So I'll go get some shorter screws tomorrow (hopefully), bolt everything down and see how much clearance I have between the spur and recess in the chassis. I'll take pictures for sure. There is plenty of room for the motor.

The angle of the drive shafts looked high to me with the spacer underneath it. I did make a post on here or the grid thread and no one responded on it. Is this the same chassis as the nitro? Most nitros usually have that area completely open where the spur is actually exposed.