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Old 01-18-2011 | 07:50 PM
  #1261  
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Originally Posted by jmackani
The angle of the drive shafts looked high to me with the spacer underneath it. I did make a post on here or the grid thread and no one responded on it. Is this the same chassis as the nitro? Most nitros usually have that area completely open where the spur is actually exposed.
This is the RC8Be chassis, the center 4 staggered are for the center diff, just notched out. The actual hole is for the Nitro Engine Flywheel, this is the one plugged. As you can see its the nitro chassis with the electric parts configured and designed to fit the same chassis and use all but 2 of the old holes.

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Old 01-18-2011 | 07:53 PM
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RC8Be has a fairly deep recess at that spot. It's not milled completely through.

EDIT: Gregg beat me to it, as with a picture, no doubt!

Last edited by 117; 01-19-2011 at 03:55 AM.
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Old 01-18-2011 | 07:58 PM
  #1263  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
This is the RC8Be chassis, the center 4 staggered are for the center diff, just notched out. The actual hole is for the Nitro Engine Flywheel, this is the one plugged. As you can see its the nitro chassis with the electric parts configured and designed to fit the same chassis and use all but 2 of the old holes.

Was that chassis originally anodized black?
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:03 PM
  #1264  
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:03 PM
  #1265  
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Originally Posted by jmackani
I was also wondering the same thing. The GRID mount does make it look raised enough with the 46 tooth spur.
Sorry if we missed your post on our thread. The nitro RC8 uses a 44T spur so a riser plate is not required. On the RC8e and RC8Be, a larger plastic 46T spur is used an thus a riser is needed.

We will be milling out that spur slot completely on one of our spare chassis. That would allow any loose dirt to fall out instead of building up a puddle of dirt. Most of the other buggies do not have this spur opening sealed.

Ron
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:10 PM
  #1266  
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Originally Posted by Team Grid RC
Sorry if we missed your post on our thread. The nitro RC8 uses a 44T spur so a riser plate is not required. On the RC8e and RC8Be, a larger plastic 46T spur is used an thus a riser is needed.

We will be milling out that spur slot completely on one of our spare chassis. That would allow any loose dirt to fall out instead of building up a puddle of dirt. Most of the other buggies do not have this spur opening sealed.

Ron
Hey Ron, hit page 67 for the grid mount installed on Billy (117) RC8Be. When I saw the Elite mount, i thought to myself "what could be better than that?" I saw the Grid video for your mount, and now I know. Sweet mount! Does it come with the top plate? or is that extra? I didnt see it on your site.
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:12 PM
  #1267  
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Originally Posted by Team Grid RC
Sorry if we missed your post on our thread. The nitro RC8 uses a 44T spur so a riser plate is not required. On the RC8e and RC8Be, a larger plastic 46T spur is used an thus a riser is needed.

We will be milling out that spur slot completely on one of our spare chassis. That would allow any loose dirt to fall out instead of building up a puddle of dirt. Most of the other buggies do not have this spur opening sealed.

Ron
Thanks for the update Ron. Like 117, it looks like with the 46 installed and not screwed down that the chassis may already be milled enough to have clearance. I was too afraid to try it with my son's car being new and not wanting to get the finger pointed at me for ripping his spur gear up. So, I guess you are saying you guys have tried it already?
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:14 PM
  #1268  
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Hi Ron, yes my install pictures are in this thread, plus they are in your Grid RC mount thread as well.

Speaking of spur gears, I hope someone makes a 44T plastic spur gear (if so, hopefully it wouldn't cause any compatibility issues with the Grid mount).
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:22 PM
  #1269  
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Wont work with the stock spur gear guys, sorry about the cell phone pic.




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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:26 PM
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Gregg, it's your motor mount. It's not flat on the bottom I bet.

On mine, the Grid RC mount fits flush, as does the front diff bulkhead. I'll have to take some pictures.
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:28 PM
  #1271  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
Wont work with the stock spur gear guys, sorry about the cell phone pic.




I think the grid mount is milled differently than the stock though. For one, the Motor is a lot higher than the stock one from what I could see where it does not need that padding on the chassis.
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:28 PM
  #1272  
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Originally Posted by 117
Gregg, it's your motor mount. It's not flat on the bottom I bet.

On mine, the Grid RC mount fits flush, as does the front diff bulkhead. I'll have to take some pictures.
Agreed, but you can tell that the spur is already down in the cutout and look at how much space is still at the bottom of the bulkhead. Im not even talking about the mount, you can see that the spur is already in the hole. The grid mount isn't going to raise the spur, thats what I mean.
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:36 PM
  #1273  
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Originally Posted by GreggW
Agreed, but you can tell that the spur is already down in the cutout and look at how much space is still at the bottom of the bulkhead. Im not even talking about the mount, you can see that the spur is already in the hole. The grid mount isn't going to raise the spur, thats what I mean.
I am going to go an pull the spacer out and secure it down and see if it still spins.
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:37 PM
  #1274  
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I can't tighten the screws on the diff mount, but if I push downward to ensure that the diff mount is flush against the chassis, I can still turn the spur, no problem.

I'll get some shorter screws tomorrow, get everything tightened down, and post up some pictures.

I also PM'ed Ron @ Grid about adding some additional mounting holes for the Castle Creations Neu motors. Since there are only 4 mounting screws, if you make the wires just long enough for a certain spur/pinion combo (in my case the stock 46T spur and 21T pinion), and then change pinions, the wires may no longer fit. My problem is that if I install a 19T pinion, I have to turn the motor so far that the wires hit the rear brace. So I turned the motor 90 degrees to get the wires away from the brace. Now I am able to get a good gear mesh, but now the wires don't reach because I turned the motor. If I could turn the motor 45 degrees instead of 90, then I imagine it would fit nicely. So I'm hoping Ron can look at his mounts to see if he can machine 4 additional mounting holes for the Neu motors offset 45 degrees from the other mounting holes.

I'll take my motor off the mounting plate tomorrow to see if this can be done. I'm afraid that the Tekin motor mounting holes might get in the way. Since the Tekin has 6 mounting holes, I imagine they get a little more mounting flexibility than the Neu motors.
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Old 01-18-2011 | 08:39 PM
  #1275  
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Originally Posted by jmackani
I am going to go an pull the spacer out and secure it down and see if it still spins.
You might have to use 10mm long screws (maybe 12mm might fit). Stock ones are 14mm long, and the spacer is 4mm thick. I didn't try to install the screws all the way in the AE plastic diff bulkhead, but they bottomed out on the Grid mount long before they were tight on the chassis.
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