Team Associated RC8Be Thread
#1261
The angle of the drive shafts looked high to me with the spacer underneath it. I did make a post on here or the grid thread and no one responded on it. Is this the same chassis as the nitro? Most nitros usually have that area completely open where the spur is actually exposed.
#1263
This is the RC8Be chassis, the center 4 staggered are for the center diff, just notched out. The actual hole is for the Nitro Engine Flywheel, this is the one plugged. As you can see its the nitro chassis with the electric parts configured and designed to fit the same chassis and use all but 2 of the old holes.


#1265
We will be milling out that spur slot completely on one of our spare chassis. That would allow any loose dirt to fall out instead of building up a puddle of dirt. Most of the other buggies do not have this spur opening sealed.
Ron
#1266
Sorry if we missed your post on our thread. The nitro RC8 uses a 44T spur so a riser plate is not required. On the RC8e and RC8Be, a larger plastic 46T spur is used an thus a riser is needed.
We will be milling out that spur slot completely on one of our spare chassis. That would allow any loose dirt to fall out instead of building up a puddle of dirt. Most of the other buggies do not have this spur opening sealed.
Ron
We will be milling out that spur slot completely on one of our spare chassis. That would allow any loose dirt to fall out instead of building up a puddle of dirt. Most of the other buggies do not have this spur opening sealed.
Ron
#1267
Sorry if we missed your post on our thread. The nitro RC8 uses a 44T spur so a riser plate is not required. On the RC8e and RC8Be, a larger plastic 46T spur is used an thus a riser is needed.
We will be milling out that spur slot completely on one of our spare chassis. That would allow any loose dirt to fall out instead of building up a puddle of dirt. Most of the other buggies do not have this spur opening sealed.
Ron
We will be milling out that spur slot completely on one of our spare chassis. That would allow any loose dirt to fall out instead of building up a puddle of dirt. Most of the other buggies do not have this spur opening sealed.
Ron
#1268
Hi Ron, yes my install pictures are in this thread, plus they are in your Grid RC mount thread as well. 
Speaking of spur gears, I hope someone makes a 44T plastic spur gear (if so, hopefully it wouldn't cause any compatibility issues with the Grid mount).

Speaking of spur gears, I hope someone makes a 44T plastic spur gear (if so, hopefully it wouldn't cause any compatibility issues with the Grid mount).
#1271
#1272
Agreed, but you can tell that the spur is already down in the cutout and look at how much space is still at the bottom of the bulkhead. Im not even talking about the mount, you can see that the spur is already in the hole. The grid mount isn't going to raise the spur, thats what I mean.
#1273
Agreed, but you can tell that the spur is already down in the cutout and look at how much space is still at the bottom of the bulkhead. Im not even talking about the mount, you can see that the spur is already in the hole. The grid mount isn't going to raise the spur, thats what I mean.
#1274
I can't tighten the screws on the diff mount, but if I push downward to ensure that the diff mount is flush against the chassis, I can still turn the spur, no problem.
I'll get some shorter screws tomorrow, get everything tightened down, and post up some pictures.
I also PM'ed Ron @ Grid about adding some additional mounting holes for the Castle Creations Neu motors. Since there are only 4 mounting screws, if you make the wires just long enough for a certain spur/pinion combo (in my case the stock 46T spur and 21T pinion), and then change pinions, the wires may no longer fit. My problem is that if I install a 19T pinion, I have to turn the motor so far that the wires hit the rear brace. So I turned the motor 90 degrees to get the wires away from the brace. Now I am able to get a good gear mesh, but now the wires don't reach because I turned the motor. If I could turn the motor 45 degrees instead of 90, then I imagine it would fit nicely. So I'm hoping Ron can look at his mounts to see if he can machine 4 additional mounting holes for the Neu motors offset 45 degrees from the other mounting holes.
I'll take my motor off the mounting plate tomorrow to see if this can be done. I'm afraid that the Tekin motor mounting holes might get in the way. Since the Tekin has 6 mounting holes, I imagine they get a little more mounting flexibility than the Neu motors.
I'll get some shorter screws tomorrow, get everything tightened down, and post up some pictures.

I also PM'ed Ron @ Grid about adding some additional mounting holes for the Castle Creations Neu motors. Since there are only 4 mounting screws, if you make the wires just long enough for a certain spur/pinion combo (in my case the stock 46T spur and 21T pinion), and then change pinions, the wires may no longer fit. My problem is that if I install a 19T pinion, I have to turn the motor so far that the wires hit the rear brace. So I turned the motor 90 degrees to get the wires away from the brace. Now I am able to get a good gear mesh, but now the wires don't reach because I turned the motor. If I could turn the motor 45 degrees instead of 90, then I imagine it would fit nicely. So I'm hoping Ron can look at his mounts to see if he can machine 4 additional mounting holes for the Neu motors offset 45 degrees from the other mounting holes.
I'll take my motor off the mounting plate tomorrow to see if this can be done. I'm afraid that the Tekin motor mounting holes might get in the way. Since the Tekin has 6 mounting holes, I imagine they get a little more mounting flexibility than the Neu motors.
#1275
You might have to use 10mm long screws (maybe 12mm might fit). Stock ones are 14mm long, and the spacer is 4mm thick. I didn't try to install the screws all the way in the AE plastic diff bulkhead, but they bottomed out on the Grid mount long before they were tight on the chassis.




