I grabbed these last order I made:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Buggy-Tires-2

Look and feel good. Still waiting for the snow and ice to clear...

Those actually look really good. I might get some. I ordered my chassis braces, aluminum wing standoffs and alum shock standoffs from Amain. Took 1 day to get. But the $8 in tax and $7 shipping still bothered me. Tower didn't have the chassis braces in stock. When I ordered my Tekin I got the hot-wire and the correct servo horn tossed in there. And with the discount it was still only $331 shipped.

Alum shock standoffs? You have a link?

Yeah, I bought a set of those aluminum shock stand offs too. Nice product, and not expensive at all:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Aluminum-RC8-4

Gregg, which servo horn did you buy?

Those are the ones. And I bought the Integy "short" aluminum 25T horn.

This is the one Billy.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXABYK&P=7

Hmm, its really must have servo horn alum?
And which rims is good? Maybe proline velocity ? Or kyosho? Or other?

Aka evo

Hey guys i finally received my rc8be that I bought used. I have a question about it tho, the front diff looks like it's leaking oil. Kind of hard to explain but it's coming out where the right cva meets the diff. Is this normal, or should I take it apart and replace the fluid and seals? I'll try to post pics.

wont hurt to do a shake down and re oil everything...

I would rebuild the diff. When you do, sand the diff cup flat, and make sure you use the updated o-rings.

i noticed a lot of changes between the sc8e kit i built and the rc8b kit i built.

this has been a known problem for sometime from what I gather for all the diffs. The trick is to take them apart and sand the casing on a flat surface in a figure 8 motion to remove all the burrs from the factory cut. For many, this has solved the problem. I've done it myself recently as I build up my kit.

The other solution is to put a different O-ring in (aside from the black one that came with the kit). You can either order another under the part number in the instruction manual and you will get the proper size one (it's clear) or put in a kyosho or Mugen one (from what I understand). I have sanded my casing and hoping this will do it. I'll go for the O-rings next if it's a failure.

Frank

I hope this isn't the case. I did the sanding, but I stayed with the kit o-rings hoping the sanding will be enough...

and to my last post... use 600 grit.

It's just recommended to change them out. I sanded mine down and it doesn't leak. I'll be damned if I take it back apart risking a leak to change some seals that aren't leaking.