hello all, I'm new to the 1:8 game and could use some tips on set up.
I have an rc8be on its way with the monster 2200 combo.
Here's what I need help on:
servo choice
spring choices
oil choices
cambers

Thanks in advance to all of you who have invested so much time dialing your cars in. I spent a lot of time on my 1:10 buggies and trucks and would appreciate accelerating the learning curve so I can dial it in and get out and race!

Welcome, I have the same setup, I am running a hitec 645MG right now to tie me over until my XP DS1015 servo comes in. I havent spent any time on the track with the buggy until this coming Sunday so I cant comment on spring rates just yet, or oil choices for that matter. Hang out though and leave your input, there is always room for more information in here.

+ YouTube Video

Here is how i did it. Much like you intend to do it

What diffgear and piniongear are you using? Right now i have both in steel, but it sounds like this picture(hehe )

when i roll the car on the floor. And my ears are bleeding when i drive the car! Even on the "cogging"-stadium of the speed it is almost not bearable.

But i guess the plastic diffgear will hold up nice, and that someone has tried it?

I'd say for the servo, either a Savox 1528TG, 1526TG, XP DS1015, or even a 1268MG if you can run high voltage (crazy specs @ 7.2V although it still has good specs @ 6V).

For other settings, I tried the setup posted on AE's website. The tapered shock pistons also seem to work well according to feedback I've read. I have them in my car, and I like them (although admittedly, I don't race RC; I do race a full scale car, so I have a good understanding of vehicle dynamics).

BTW guys, I had an old RC10B4 tire here that I did an experiment on with the AKA glue. I found an area where the bead had pulled away from the wheel, so I glued it down with AKA tire glue. I let it sit for about 30 minutes, then covered the bead in Jet CA Remover. I was able to remove the tire bead completely except where the AKA glue was located. Next I tried a no-name brand CA remover. No go. Then I tried acetone. No go. Then I tried MEK (anyone who has worked with MEK knows how nasty it is and how it seems to remove everything thing adhesive related and then some). No go!! So I tried filling a small container with acetone and let the tire sit in the acetone for over an hour. Still, the AKA glue held on. This is some serious glue....

i will be running a jr9000t servo in my buggy.

Im running a hitech 7955tg in the sc8e

The RC8Be comes standard with a plastic spur, and it seems to be holding up fine for me.

Ahh, then it is a go It is incredibly noisy with steel on steel, that is for sure.

I run a JR Z9100S in my 1/8's

Billy, just boil them off. That's about all I hear works on AKA.

I was afraid of that. I think it's AKA glue that has my antenna stuck in the antenna tube.

Just getting back from the track. I broke a right upper rear turnbuckle. Someone crashed into my back wheel. Was able to buy the parts at the shop there. So I swapped them out and didn't think to take pics. But the shop at that track just lost my business for good.

What happened that caused them to lose your business?

I spent $70 on tires got back over to the track. Not having run there before one of the guys says "you want some a little softer than that" ok I'll take them back. I w of a mile back to the shop. They won't take them back because the corner of one of the packages was opened. Well I bought it just like they saw it. I go back and show my friend he gets one of the guys that works there. That guy drives me back up there and assures me he'd take care of it. That guy helps me pick out the correct tires we go back up he talks to her and she rings them up and tells me how much it will be. The other guy that drove me up there who works there tells the girl behind the counter who is his co worker that the owner said is was ok. So she starts getting loud with him saying "I told him to come back tomorrow and talk to the owner. The worker that drove me back up there says "I talked to him he said it's fine" sh says well I'm going to call him. Then she calls the owner who is the announcer at the track. The same guy that the other worker and I just showed the package to not 5 minutes ago. Then she said that the owner just told her over the phone that we'd take them back but not the opened ones. I just bought these like this. The top was opened just like that when I bought it. So no deal. They lost my business forever.

This is just how I bought it 10 minutes before. No refund.

I hate hearing stories like that. I'd be upset too.

I always thought the main selling point of the local hobby shop was the additional customer service that one receives, in addition to supporting a local race track (if the shop has a track). However, when I hear stories of like this, it really makes me wonder what some owners are thinking. I hate to hear about a local hobby shop closing or shop owners really hurting for business, however I've had more than one condescending shop employee experience which pushed me to seek assistance on boards, figure out what I want (or what the problem is) and mail order the parts.

The really strange part is, with full scale racing, I find the opposite is true. While I do the majority of my own work, I've found that as I progress in my career and as my son gets older, I have less free time. I've been using race shops increasingly in the past few years, and I find that most shops are more than willing to work with customers. Perhaps it's the overall money difference, because I know the margins are really thin on most pre-fabricated race hardware. Now custom work is another beast all itself, and there the margins are a little better, but $80 to $100 per hour labor adds up, especially on big jobs like roll cages, etc. Heck, I just spent $1k getting my brake system replumbed on my race car, and that was 90% labor. I already designed the front and rear brackets, had them machined, and installed them along with the rotors and hats. I also supplied stainless brake line and probably 75% of the fittings and sensors. The guy that did the work spent a lot of time with me getting to know what I wanted, what I was looking for, and answered ALL of my questions. I was so happy with the work that I had him do some cage work, re-fab my steering column, and do a bunch of other work. I spent a ton with him because his customer service was top notch as was his work. Don't even ask how much a typical race weekend costs...