in the you tube videos of the RC8B build he talks about letting the front upper arm fall into the caster block on its own and spacing accordingly which, if using the book setup, would require the spacers to be in different locations than the manual shows. did anyone else do this? do you still you use both spacers?

I only built it using the book, I haven't gone back and tweaked it like the video shows.

And Billy, please stop me from buying the Futaba 4pks!!

The 4PKS is pretty sweet, and teamed up with that Savox servo, the steering is VERY fast. I really like the menu and how everything is laid out. The receiver is quite small as well.

I have some Fasmask that I'm going to try, but it's so stinking cold here. I don't have any pin striping, though. I might take a trip up to the LHS tomorrow to get some. I need to give a multi-color paint job a try.

On the caster blocks, I was a bit confused. It doesn't show any spacers in the upper inner A-arm pivot, so I didn't put any there. The silver conical washers on the outer upper pivot make total sense, but it seems like there is a gap in front of and behind the upper inner A-arm. I was kind of thinking that the arm was free floating (and caster was determined by the inserts in the lower caster block), and it had to be free floating in order to allow you to change caster via the lower caster block inserts. Then I saw the caster spacers... They're not mentioned in the RC8Be manual, though... I was a bit confused by the vid as well. I need to go watch it again.

If they have some Bob Diveley pick that up, its like $3 it will save you the headache. And Im still trying to decide on dropping the hammer on a radio that costs 2/3 more than my car.

The Fasmask is the same type of stuff (liquid mask) or are you saying the Fasmask sucks?

Fasmask is the same "type" of liquid mask. But in deciding what was good, I ran into a thread with over 100 replies and everyone that's used it swears by it. Others flake off and bobs comes off in sheets. So to be safe $3.85 sounded safe to me.

Hey guys. Jumping back into r/c after many years. My son got a slash for Christmas and I'm jealous!

Going all out on an rc8be setup. I have a good grasp on batts / esc and motors. But I am having a hard time picking a servo. There are dozens. Slow and strong. Fast but weaker. Not sure what exactly to get for steering. LHS recommended the hitec hs7980th but it seems very high torque. 617 oz @ 0.17 sec but the 7945 seems better for me @ 319 oz @ 0.10 sec. Both at 7.2v. What range should I be looking for?

I have looked at savox jr futaba and just start to get overwhelmed.

J

What setup are you going with to get 7.2? Just wondering because castle itself only pushes 5v. And for servos. I have a hitec now. But I'm ordering the XP from associated. Billy will suggest what he has savox. Im not familiar with them so I'm going XP.

Also if you order the kit I got mine from Tower Hobbies for $339 with the coupon.

You can get Savox fairly cheap from A Main (but I know that's kind of a pain for you). I'm using a Savox 1258TG. Seems to have plenty of torque. I couldn't imagine needing something with 600+ oz*in of torque!

The 1258TG has: 0.08 sec/60°, 166 oz*in @ 6V and only $70. You can get the higher torque 1256TG for $80 but it's a bit slower (0.15) however much stronger (277 oz*in).

Gregg, MMM BEC is only 5V? I thought it was 6V, but I am probably wrong!

The only bad thing is that Savox servos are LOUD. Much louder than the Futaba I have in my RC10B4.

EDIT: Had my facts wrong. XP servos are supposedly made by ACE.

Now that I look at the specs of the DS1015 XP servo, that's a mighty fine servo!!! I probably would have bought it had I not already purchased the Savox.

Im going with the DS1015 Its $99 at Tower and I know I can get the discount coupon for over $100 with it, ill just buy a cotter pin or something to put me over $100. Save $5 more that way.

I just looked again Billy, its adjustable between 5 and 7v so thats awesome. I need to get in my programming and see what mines set at.

New Software update for the Castle ESC 1/7/11

Hey guys, just got my new FT RC8BE up and running. It's my second 8th scale buggy, and after last night's first run, I really like it!

Question about saving weight though....


EDIT Wow, messed up my first post on this thread.....!!!!! Please see below for my full post.....sorry!

Yeah, I can't find any of the CVD replacement driveshafts around here for my kiddo's Revo, so I'm going to order a pair from Tower. Now I'm trying to find enough stuff to either get the order up to $100, or maybe even $150 for free shipping.

Hey guys, just got my new FT RC8BE up and running. It's my second 8th scale buggy, and after last night's first run, I really like it!

I noticed that the buggy is a bit heavy though (I haven't put it on the scale yet, and yes....I know 8th scale cars are porky) so I have a question about saving a little weight....and I'd like to keep the cost down, as opposed to going with the all carbon bits.....

My setup is: 2250KV motor, two 2S Turnigy 5000mAh packs, 15/46 stock gearing....

Sooooo, has anyone run a 3 cell in their RC8? If so, what gearing and motor KV? Also, what packs do you recommend? I'm on a budget, so Turnigy/Hobbyking stuff is always my first choice. And I'm ok with soft packs or hard, as long as they fit in the tray. The track I run on is a large 1/10th scale indoor track ....so I don't need insane top speed.


Thanks!!
MC

Good place to start..

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...info-tips.html

And youre going to order an extra $50 to save shipping. Haha!