Ah that makes more sense. For some reason, I was thinking about the opposite end, and I was thinking that the wiring might be an issue.

I looked at the end bell on the shaft end, and it's held in place with 3 screws, so I would think that I could rotate it.

Got the MMP wired up. I don't have a fan, but it's really cold outside. I was thinking of doing a few high speed runs and measure temps after each pass. If it starts to creep up, I'll just wait until I get a fan, then retest. There is certainly a lot more room for the MMP! If all the tests go well, I'd like to try a sensored motor so I can run SmartSense to get the best of both worlds.

Yup; that's what did with mine!

hey guys u know if u still put Green Slime on the clear seals when u build the diffs thanks

My kit didn't come with green slime or clear seals.

When sanding the diff halfs do u have to remove a shim. I sanded mine went to put it together and the diff wouldn't turn. Took apart and removed one shim and worked great is this a common thing to do thanks

Jees, how much did you sand it? I didn't have to take any out on mine. And it doesn't leak anymore.

+1. I used black grease on the diff seals, per the assembly manual. My kit also did not include clear seals, but it's a good idea to upgrade to them as is well known by now.

I sanded my center diff and did not have to remove a shim. However, I used a Mugen gasket which is 0.005" thicker than the stock paper gasket. If you can, I'd install Mugen gaskets. It will help stop the weeping that many are experiencing.

Are these the mugen seals?

D'oh, can't post links yet. From amainhobbies, they are part MUGC0257 for the mbx5 buggies.

Thanks

j

That should be correct.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post8454270
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post8466960

So I sanded the diff halves until the whole surface had that matte look so I knew it was even. I used the clear seals and coated them with black grease and I still get the weeping that a lot of people talk about. I'm hesitant to use the mugen gaskets cause of the few people that wrote about their diff not being as smooth due to the extra thickness. any other suggestions?

Let me ask another question.....how much oil do you guys put in your diffs?

I filled my centerdiff so the gears was covered in fluid.

But what do you mean with the halves? I guess you are talking about the "ring" that makes the housing for the diff where the spurgear mates with it?

Well that's about the same amount of fluid I put in my diff and yes I was talking about the diff half that meets with the spur.

im still having a small leak out of mine to.im gunna try some 600 grit one more time.and the last time i sanded i only went to 350 grit and used some greese around paper gasket and gently snugged the halves together,making sure not to tweek the plasic,but it didnt work.oh and i even used new spur and new gasket.

Just got done testing the MMP. The final results are after 8 to 10 minutes of pretty aggressive driving (speed passes, lots of braking, lots of acceleration, etc):

Motor 167F
Batt 96F
ESC 150F to 165F, depending on where I aimed the temp gun
Ambient temp is 32F

Specs:
5S 40C 3000mAh Zippy LiPo
MMP with 1800kV Neu motor
No airflow provisions in the body
46T spur with 21T pinion

Also this is without a fan on the ESC. I had to remove the fan for it to fit in my RC10B4. If I decide to keep the MMP in the RC8Be, I'll order a new fan for it.

I'm charging up a 6S now to give it a try.

As for the leaking diffs, I filled mine up just past the spider gears. Some did come out when I assembled the diff (from being slightly overfilled, I assume), so I cleaned that up after I tightened the screws (I tightened them as evenly as I could). I let the diff sit overnight and no leaking. Also no leaking after a post run inspection. Before I used the Mugen gasket, the diff showed signs of weeping after I let it sit overnight.