Tamiya TRF415
#1846
Originally posted by F1Junkie
Hi -
I thought I'd ask my question on this forum.
I was wondering if anyone knows the diameter of the ball that goes in the top part of the shocks. I am trying to retro fit a pair on another car and need the part that snaps into the top part of the damper.
If anyone knows the size or has a part number for the pieces I need that would be great.
I am looking for the piece that accepts a 3mm screw to attach it to the shock tower.
Thanks
Dave
Hi -
I thought I'd ask my question on this forum.
I was wondering if anyone knows the diameter of the ball that goes in the top part of the shocks. I am trying to retro fit a pair on another car and need the part that snaps into the top part of the damper.
If anyone knows the size or has a part number for the pieces I need that would be great.
I am looking for the piece that accepts a 3mm screw to attach it to the shock tower.
Thanks
Dave
Here:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFSC6&P=X
#1847
i am ready to try it too... now, i shoulda ordered another locked pulley for the center already so it would be fully direct drive, but i keep forgetting! plus, when i originally started this, i didnt see anyone had it in stock. now just gotta ring up Steve and order some more stuff........
#1850
Originally posted by KilRuf
Sounds good. I finally get to test my new setup tomorrow in Stock. I'd also like to try out a Strat 2 body as aposed to my Mazda6. But I don't think I'll have it painted in time. Oh well, we'll see.
Sounds good. I finally get to test my new setup tomorrow in Stock. I'd also like to try out a Strat 2 body as aposed to my Mazda6. But I don't think I'll have it painted in time. Oh well, we'll see.
kilruf - u using two hole pistons? i switched mine to the 3 hole.. and 30wt associated oil.. hopefully that'll work better because i wanna run a stiffer spring. all the tracks i go to have pretty good to carpet like traction.
#1852
I'm running 3hole with 600wt Tamiya oil. I have been running the 400 with 2hole before. But last week the car felt real good with the 600wt. Only problem was it rained before I had a chance to get a qualifier in to get some real lap times. So we went indoors onto the carpet. Had to whip out the Yok SD for that and put up the 415. This weekend looks to be Sunny!
I'd also like to try AE 30wt with the 3 hole pistons as well. Plus I'm running Tamiya White Springs up front with Blues in the rear. Anyways.. we shall see.
I'd also like to try AE 30wt with the 3 hole pistons as well. Plus I'm running Tamiya White Springs up front with Blues in the rear. Anyways.. we shall see.
#1853
Originally posted by NVisible
Considering picking up this car. Is there any more information on it other than the limited info on the tamiya site?
Considering picking up this car. Is there any more information on it other than the limited info on the tamiya site?
info you should know: no front diff.. spools are available thru speedtech. locked center pulley you have to do yourself. if you want more info.. PM Me.
everything else is awesome about the car...
#1855
my main concern is the lack of a front diff. Is it really that big of a deal? id be mostly using it outdoors.
also, hows the hardware it comes with? would i be wanting to get a stainless or titanium screw kit? i know the screws that came with my xxx-s were crap compared to the stainless im running now
also, hows the hardware it comes with? would i be wanting to get a stainless or titanium screw kit? i know the screws that came with my xxx-s were crap compared to the stainless im running now
#1856
No diff, have to come up with your own make shift deal. I don't need it since it's my outdoors car. But other people need a diff to run foams on carpet or to run the Reedy Race where oneways are banned. Screws... I'd upgrade to Speedtech's Ti screw kit. The kit screws will work. But Tamiya "stock" screws tend to strip out the heads sometimes. Mainly counter sunk ones.
#1858
Originally posted by KilRuf
I'd upgrade to Speedtech's Ti screw kit. The kit screws will work. But Tamiya "stock" screws tend to strip out the heads sometimes. Mainly counter sunk ones.
I'd upgrade to Speedtech's Ti screw kit. The kit screws will work. But Tamiya "stock" screws tend to strip out the heads sometimes. Mainly counter sunk ones.
#1859
You think so? Are they different than the screws that were in the 414? I just remember people stripping them out and having to dremel the screw heads on the 414. I didn't take the risk.. so I'm using Ti screws on the lower deck.
#1860
Originally posted by KilRuf
You think so? Are they different than the screws that were in the 414? I just remember people stripping them out and having to dremel the screw heads on the 414. I didn't take the risk.. so I'm using Ti screws on the lower deck.
You think so? Are they different than the screws that were in the 414? I just remember people stripping them out and having to dremel the screw heads on the 414. I didn't take the risk.. so I'm using Ti screws on the lower deck.
. This time I just give a nodge to tighten them down. No more stripped screws.



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