Not for nothing but I have been watching a P5 at my local track lately and I must say this engine sounds and looks like its a beast. Idle is smooth power is killer. How do these do in a buggy. What kind of run times do these get.

The p5 is great in buggy. It has a lot of torque and helps to get over the tough jump sections. I think my best lap times happen when I run a p5, I have a few other engines, and they have a bit more top end, but none have the powerband of the p5. I may be partial to it, but the overall package is perfect. Under 250 dollars, plenty of power, easy to tune, idles great, super reliable...The most notable features are the bottom end, and the reliability....The first engine I recommend when a new racer wants more power than his 3 port Nova that he learned to drive with, It's all about the p5.

After a time they might want to get an engine with more rpm's, like a 7 port, for the bigger tracks, but the workhorse is the p5. The longtime best overall engine for the price......

Runtime varies a lot. In most places 9-10 minutes is average, but honestly, I live right at sea level in Texas and the extra density of the air likes to help my engines drink fuel. I get 7-8 minutes here, but most other places I've raced in the state I get 9-10.....

Monty tunes them too, the best combination. Monty/P5=can't go wrong....

Merdith6 what pipe/manifold/glow plug combo do you run on your P5 buggy
engine?

Most run the 9886 top end pipe, but I find the 9853ss pipe is more durable and makes the most power overall.

The header is the 41021 or the 41029 in a Mugen buggy or when the 41021 doesn't quite clear the side guard...

Those are the short round headers and help maintain a strong top end with the mid range pipe....

Turbo= OD-97T

Thats what I was thinking; 9853/41021 or 41029 x6.

Thanks

BTW I resurrected my old P5xs; new rod, ceramic bearing, RayA pinch, H.E.S. crankshaft and a ebay new cooling head. She looks brand new. I'm going to install her in a new X6 that I'm trying to sneek under the wife's radar.. It came with a standard button, but I also have a turbo that I need to try. Do you have both and if so, was there a perfomance difference?

OK I have an update in regards to my previous posts about my engine running poorly and leaning towards the Fuel tank as to the problem, this weekend was a GLORCS race out here in Qc at the RC Drummond track. It was a great weekend with some great racing by all, that being said I was still having my running issues with myself not being able to finish a qualifier past 3.5 mins.I then put a known good fuel tank,new fuel tubing and a complete engine seal using lucky 7 engine seal.(back cover, needle valves on carb, carb mount, rubber slide boot on the carb) and then after running it it seamed to hold it's idle much better I went to race(C main) and then after just a few laps it started once again.(flame out) This happened about 5-6 times during this main but I really wanted to at least finish the race so we kept starting it and going another 3-4 laps before flaming again. Once I went back to my pits I started it up again and got it running at temp, I then sprayed a small shot of brake cleaner at the flywheel and the engine died straight away. I am lead to believe this is the tell tale sign the front bearing is leaking and allowing air to get into the engine and mess the tune and cause flame outs. Any idea's? was this the correct way to converm the bearing? Is there anything else I should do?

Thanks Monty

Sean

All bearings leak but if the bearing leaks profusely it will definitely effect the way the engine runs . If you feel comfortable changing it out yourself then buy a bearing and install yourself , if not then send it to an engine builder and make sure it is done properly .

Not really a difference in performance between turbo and standard in my opinion. I do think the 97t plug outlasts the standard plugs by a slim margin though. Good luck sneaking under the radar....

Well I dont have any tools for removing the bearings, will the Hudy tool listed at Amain do the job? also this bearing is not leaking outwardly it is only taking in air and killing the idle.at times it is running great then out of nowhere it just jumps the idle way up and nothing I do can change it? then when I was racing it I was getting to this same double and dieing on exit(it was a slow speed double with a 180 deg on exit)

As usual, great info in here

Quick question on front bearings as we're talking them and I pulled my N21R apart for the first time yesterday for an internals inspection :

How much slop is acceptable slop in a front bearing? When the crank is held by both the front and rear bearing on my N21R, I cannot move the crank at all, but when I pull the crank out and reverse it (ie have it held by the front bearing only) I can then tilt it a few degrees. Addtionally, there is a gap between the shield and the inner cage so i can see some light through it, but then again how big a gap is a bad gap compared to "functional" slop?

thanks,
Paul

Monty,

Cade had a awesome weekend at Round 3 of the Texas RC Pro Series in Harlingen Texas, TQ'ing and finishing 1st in both Sportsman Buggy and Sportsman Arena Truck!

The GEARS club built a great layout and battled the effects of tropical storm Hermaine the same week of the race but had the track ready to go by Friday practice. Their facility is top notch! Tire choice played a big part all during the race as the track would change after each round, it got slicker as the day went on.

The Plus 4 in the buggy and the P5XLT in the truggy were flawless. I had to do a little tuning on Friday night because of the humidity but not anything major. Retuned a little on Saturday and didn't touch the needles the rest of the day, maybe a hour or so. Run time was great on both.

Guys if you haven't tried a Houston Tuned P5XLT do yourself a favor and try one if you are needing a new mill anytime soon. They are great motors and just flat out work.

Thanks for all your Great Help and Service Monty!

Jon and Cade

Cade also qualified 2nd and finished 1st in 4x4 Short Course Truck too!

in that case check the gasket in the block at the base of the carburetor , part#14002

Good job Cade !!

thanks for the update Jon and great job on the tuning

Yes this I did check when I had the engine apart and it was in perfect condition, I then went ahead and using Lucky 7 engine sealer I applied a thin bead on the neck of the carb so when I fully seated the carb it was just starting to come out. I also removed the neddle valves and applied sealer on the threads, and then ofcourse I also applied sealer to the back plate. Once this was done I started the engine and brought it up to temp on the box (approx 200 deg) I then started working on getting a smooth idle with out dieing. Everything seamed perfect as if the problem was solved and then out of no where the engine just had a major jump in RPM at idle after giving a few revvs? and would not drop, at this point I sprayed the front bearing with brake cleaner and the engine died. This is what lead me to believe the front bearing is my issue but there is no outward leaking from this bearing as the block is completely dry. This was only my 3rd offroad race so far since coming over from Onroad and so far it has been a rough road LOL, I have ran about 3 gallons threw the engine between racing and running as many laps as I can during practice. This running issue has been with me for the past 2 races as I first was thinking the tank was my issue.

Thanks again for helping

Sean