Just build my AE RC8Be and the center diff is leaking. Ive taken it apart and put it back together twice. Just keeps leaking. Anyone else have this problem?

I had that happen to me as well...Take some sandpaper and a flat surface and rub the diff case in a figure 8 pattern and make it totally flat. Mine hasn't leaked a drop since I did that.

was lookin at sme of the gearing posted on the previous page,. I went with 17/46 with a 1400kv on 6s. should be around 35mph. Does that sound right?

Also running the 46 or smaller spur you can omit the shim under the center diff if you run an elite rc motor mount. The elite rc mount raises the motor a lil higher than i would like for it to so leaving out the shim brings it back down a mm or so. JMO

Yep, I've run out there several weekends. Been running 2 wheel mod and 4x4 short course. Just getting into the 8th scale stuff.

well I finally caved and bought a slew of fun stuff including an RC8Be today. Should be here in a few days and hopefully on the track by next weekend.

Cool, to save yourself some work later might want to grab up the FT 1.011 pistons "white". Seemed night and day to me! Great car fun to drive.

I've been running the 25 weight oil with the stock pistons, if I switch to the tapered option pistons, should i use a thinner oil? What would you fellows suggest? Thank you.

Kinda all depends on your track conditions. I like to play around 25-35WT is a good starting point.

Looks like everybody is having an easy build. I must be unlucky. I received my kit from A-Main last Friday and started on it right away. First, one of the CVA couplers was bored out smaller than normal and wouldnt fit the pin. Whatever, I ordered the CVA rebuild kit which got here today. The new coupler fits fine. Second, the motor mount holes are too far out. The holes on my 2200kv are 25mm whichever way. The motor mount is of by about .5 of a mm. Just enough so the screws wont screw into the motor straight. To top it off I'm missing the wheel nuts.

The seals were intact when I received the package. All the plastic bags were sealed as well. Not to happy about it but I guess I'll just have to email AE and see what they can do.

the rc10.com site is down anyone know where ryan cavs setup sheet that i can download? wana see the differences between mine and his.

hey was just wondering if anyone knows which parts from the rc8 wont fit the rc8b? as i can get a rc8 roller for $125 which is better than trying to buy parts whenever i need them but unsure which parts will fit, any help would be great

Wow...sorry to hear about your issues with the build. I would tell AE about all of it and I'm pretty sure that they'll take care of you. As for the motor mount...I've seen a couple people complaining that Castle/Neu motors won't fit...they WILL regardless of what your experience thus far might tell you. 2 things to check though.

First...the motor pad is too big. You need to trim it down to fit into the divot in the chassis below the motor area. I also had to remove a bit more near the front of that divot...no biggie.

Second...to mount up the motor it is not necessary to have the set screws exactly parallel. It'll still work...mine does. Try putting the screws (and ballstud washers) loosely into the motor first, then fit the motor into the mount. I actually wound up mounting the mount and diff first and putting the motor in afterwards. It's a LOT easier out of the vehicle!

It's not the size of the motor thats the issue, it's the motor hole spacing on the mount itself. I tried 2 other Neus and a Tekin last night. It's a manufacturing defect on the mount. It's only half a mm off but its enough to make the hex start binding and screwing in crooked.

I don't really mind the missing wheel nuts or the defective CVA coupler since they were only $10 to replace. The motor mount on the other hand drove me nuts. I'm sending it back to AE today and I had an RC Monster mount overnighted as well so I should be good for the weekend

I am in the middle of my assembly and received a bad rear cva hing pin. Its about .5mm to long and wont fit into the rear hub carrier bearing. Is it wise to take the dremmel to the pin to try and grind it down?

you can do that it shouldnt hurt anything just take a little off at a time