Clockwork Racing Engines and Products...
#151
#152
Neal I see you have the JL on special.. Very good pricing.. How does a JP6 pipe work on this engine? I am considering 2 JL's for next season, and I have a JP-3 and a JP-6.. I am thinking JP-3 for truggy, and JP-6 for buggy.. If I go with the JL's that is.. Still looking at Werks pretty hard core also..
#153
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 115
That is awesome to hear buddy ! I told ya the modded JPX was something you had to see in person to understand LOL ! been running these mills for about 4 years now and they have become the standard i compare all other engines against......
The scary thing is your engine is still just a baby...its still got a breakin shim installed and wont even show you its full potential till it hits about 2 gallons.... when it drops its nuts it really is going to ramp up the power and RPM
Out of curiosity what other engines have you run ?
The scary thing is your engine is still just a baby...its still got a breakin shim installed and wont even show you its full potential till it hits about 2 gallons.... when it drops its nuts it really is going to ramp up the power and RPM
Out of curiosity what other engines have you run ?
I was looking for the durability of my RB motors with a power band like the 24 or K9 and the overall power of the NOVA. I think the EVO3 hit the mark.
#154
Neal I see you have the JL on special.. Very good pricing.. How does a JP6 pipe work on this engine? I am considering 2 JL's for next season, and I have a JP-3 and a JP-6.. I am thinking JP-3 for truggy, and JP-6 for buggy.. If I go with the JL's that is.. Still looking at Werks pretty hard core also..
#155
#156
If you want brutal bottom end at the expense of some top end, the JP1 is flat awesome on the bottom but it will not rev like the JP3
I've been running my CRE JL in my late model for a couple months now, and the JP3 is perfect for larger oval tracks with flowing corners and the JP1 is great for those tight, point and shoot tracks
I've been running my CRE JL in my late model for a couple months now, and the JP3 is perfect for larger oval tracks with flowing corners and the JP1 is great for those tight, point and shoot tracks
#158
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660
I have a quick question. Just got the jpx yesterday, and would like to know If the carb has already been seated. And if the lsn is supposed to be flat and blunt at the tip (seams strange) that's all.
Last edited by dreaux; 08-20-2010 at 07:57 PM.
#159
Got my clocked B5 in the mail today. Adding it to my clocked JPX and JL. Now I get to do some extensive testing and listen to everyone at the track ask what the hell I got in that thing. 
Thanks Neal!!

Thanks Neal!!
#161
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 38
What do you guys think is better for a Mugen MBX6? I was going to get an O'Donnell SS .21 but I just started looking at the Clocked JL, JPX and P7 EVO3. They are all within budget w/the most expensive on e at the top of what I want to spend. I have a JP-3 Pipe already so I'm leaning toward the JL.
I'm coming from an 2200kv electric powered buggy so I'd like to have some great low end and top speed(doesn't everyone). My track is rough loose dirt with 1 or 2 medium/large jumps and lots of smaller ones. Any help would be great. Thanks
I'm coming from an 2200kv electric powered buggy so I'd like to have some great low end and top speed(doesn't everyone). My track is rough loose dirt with 1 or 2 medium/large jumps and lots of smaller ones. Any help would be great. Thanks
#162
i have 2 questions i need answered. I am having a hard time getting in touch with neal, so if someone here can with these questions, please do.
First i got my clocked jpx .21 yesterday and i would like to know:
If the carb has already been seated.
What is the shimming on the head button.
And, when i look in the carb, the lsn does not come to a point, it is just flat and blunt. I have never seen a carb needle on a nitro engine do this (i have nothing but o.s. motors) It almost looks broke off at the end (but it looks long enough). Is this normal for a jpx?
I think that's it. Want to break in at the track tomorrow, but need to get this straight first.
oh yeah, talk about a nice fit between the P/S!! Will take half as long to break it in!
First i got my clocked jpx .21 yesterday and i would like to know:
If the carb has already been seated.
What is the shimming on the head button.
And, when i look in the carb, the lsn does not come to a point, it is just flat and blunt. I have never seen a carb needle on a nitro engine do this (i have nothing but o.s. motors) It almost looks broke off at the end (but it looks long enough). Is this normal for a jpx?
I think that's it. Want to break in at the track tomorrow, but need to get this straight first.
oh yeah, talk about a nice fit between the P/S!! Will take half as long to break it in!
What do you guys think is better for a Mugen MBX6? I was going to get an O'Donnell SS .21 but I just started looking at the Clocked JL, JPX and P7 EVO3. They are all within budget w/the most expensive on e at the top of what I want to spend. I have a JP-3 Pipe already so I'm leaning toward the JL.
I'm coming from an 2200kv electric powered buggy so I'd like to have some great low end and top speed(doesn't everyone). My track is rough loose dirt with 1 or 2 medium/large jumps and lots of smaller ones. Any help would be great. Thanks
I'm coming from an 2200kv electric powered buggy so I'd like to have some great low end and top speed(doesn't everyone). My track is rough loose dirt with 1 or 2 medium/large jumps and lots of smaller ones. Any help would be great. Thanks
#164
Dont touch the shims! neal will shim it accordingly before he sends it to you and include any extra leftover shims in your box. Most of neals engines are not stock shimmed but he always shims for 30% and according to his mod work.
#165
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,660



