the 2 copper,are you sure you don't have the .2mm and the .1mm copper shims? I never heard of a .05mm shim.

thats what i meant!...but with the .3mm alloy aswell...now that it is run in what shims should i run?

Deadmancourt, I answered that question in full a couple of pages back (post 11445) including a link to an article on the subject.

If you are running only 20%, run 1 x .3mm alloy for max performance and economy. You can add another 1 x .1mm copper for a total of .4 if you like for an added safety factor that will allow you to run 20% or 25% without messing with the shims all the time.

i know i was just seeing if i got a different response but no big deal...i always run LOSI Nitrotane 20% because its easy to get around all the tracks...but was thinking about going to 30% once i go through this gallon that i already have...so i should be fine with just the 1 alloy?....and then when i go to 30% what shims should i add?

I myself use 30%byrons with the 2 copper shims.[.2mm-.1mm] I did use the one .3mm shim but quit because they seamed to air leak on me. Now if your going to run 30% it is hard to tell you what shim pack to use. The reason being,how good do you tune? elevation,those sort of things. But mainly your tuning ability. After my engine is broke in I change the rear bearing to ceramic and the rod. Then I set the shim stack and put my needles back to flush. From there I turn the hsn in 1 full turn and leave it. Then I turn the lsn in 1.25 turns,then I check and reset if needed the idle gap. Then it's time to fire it up and get warmed up. At this point I stop using the heating gun to warm the engine and just put a beer coozie over the head. From there it's just touching the lsn 1/16th turn in or out[mostly in] after warm up. The other thing I forgot to mention is before I get this far I use massive mods run in oil in the very first 2 tanks. So as you can see everybody has their own way of doing things.

stupid question , Wheres the best place online to buy???

amain hobbies, massive mods,answer rc.depends on what your looking for.

Cool - but please do read the article. It tells you pretty much all you will need to know on shimming the GO motors, as well as plug choice to match which is important.
If your going to 30% I recommend a medium plug like O'Donnell 97T
I currently run 30% with .4mm shim stack and OD 97T and couldn't be happier with the performance and reliability

right now im running .6mm shim stack with 20% and an odonell 77t!...it is still a pretty tight pinchis this a good combo?...i am probally gonna drop to .4mm of shims once the tight pinch settles down

What clutch setup (shoes/spring) do you recommend for Mbx6 and Serpent S811?
Running GX7R and GX5R

hey guys... just wanted to let you know that we will have the new clutches and shoes in stock within the next couple of weeks. I'm ordering a large number of these, the 2 in 1 tools, and starter box parts. Plus, we're restocking on head buttons, turbo plugs (lots), plus ceramic bearings.

oddly enough, the new clutch shoes only come with one size spring. I'm told the composite compound we are using works best with this spring. Only time will tell, but I'll be asking for some feedback on here.

New flywheels are dialed. They have cutouts that prevent aluminum shoes from catching when they mushroom after a lot of use. I have one on my MBX6-T and one my agama buggy.

Hey guys I just purchased a massive mods MG66. I love this thing it is a beast. I was wondering if anyone might have a suggestion on the best size carb insert to run with the best balance of power and fuel economy?

Thanks

smallest. that thing with a heavy clutch is like a raped ape. its just nuts once you get about a gallon or two through it

Hi Lowerdam, glad you like the MG66. They are a sweet unit.
Carb restricter really depends on your track type and if your running buggy or truggy.
Once it's fully run in I would start racing with the 7mm. This gives a good balance of power and economy. Most guys in truggy run the 7mm. If you have it in a buggy, try the 7 mm to start with, then if you find you need more run time or it's just too nasty drop to the 6.5. You won't lose much top end at all (and may even pick up a little extra bottom end pull with the smaller restrictor).
Once you have it at race tune for a couple of meetings PM me and we can chat about shimming vs nitro% in the fuel you are using, and how to get a little more run time and power out of your new toy .
Enjoy that puppy

I agree with Grizz.

7mm in truggy and 6.5 in buggy.

See the GO thread in the Aussie section of mine with a 7mm, 0.4 shim stack, 2072 pipe on C2AMainBlueDot25%.