Hey everyone, Kinda new to these go engines, first , had it pinched by Rex and got it put in the buggy. Fired it up for the first time to night and started to tune. Well, I set the high side, bench tune, and move on to the low side. If I set the engine to idle fair then nail it, it is WAY fat till it cleans out, now I start leaning it on the low side and the thing starts doing the really fast idle like its lean, but it had good throttle responce. tryed to back the idle screw out but she just won't idle down. So it's back and forth. How many turns out from closed is a good general starting point. Oh yeah, this is a 7 port bout 75*-80* low humidity.
Thanks everyone,
Mike

well now it sounds like the HSN is tooo lean!....if you move more than a couple hours on either needle,then the opposite needle needs to be moved the opposite way!...for example,if you lean the low,then you need to richen the high just alittle and visa versa!....set your idle gap first! then lean the low till it idles consistantly and doesnt lean bog when given throttle,then if it is idles high the HSN is to lean,richen it up some!...

Thanks for the help. I'm Actually just shy of a gallon in it now. I was running. The re10 pipe, 30% werks fuel, 1 silver and two copper shims, os p3 plug. What other pipes would you suggest? I run at revelation raceway big track with big jumps.

Sounds good, I'll give it a go, lol. Right, anyway, I'll have to try in the morn, lil late for the neighbors.
Thanks,
Mike

dynamite 086, you still have a way to go breaking it in.

+1 on the 086, especially on a big track - top end to burn
Leave the shims like that for another .5 gallon and try the O'Donnell 97T plug on the 30%. The GX and MG motors really seem to like the 97T's especially on 30%, where a medium plug is good with the higher nitro content.
The only other pipe I would look at is the GO 2072. I find I get better economy with the 086 though, and a little more bottom end response too.

Not quite correct. The high speed needle effects the low speed needle, but the low speed needle does not effect the high speed needle.
Sounds like a classic case of too wide an idle gap covering a really rich bottom end which in turn leads to a lean top end.

Set the idle gap first to .7mm - if it won't idle at this setting then lean the bottom end until it will idle - DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE GAP ONCE IT IS SET.
Use the pinch test after one minute of warming on the box to set the idle gap if you like. This is a good way of doing it if you don't have anything the right size to set the gap manually with. Decrease the idle gap until the motor only revs up slightly when you pinch the fuel line. If it revs up quite high when you pinch off the fuel line the idle gap is still too big.

Idle gap directly effects the low speed needle setting, so without the gap set right when you start to tune, you will just chase your tail all day trying to get a tune unless you are an experianced tuner and know what to listen for.

Once you have the bottom set for a crisp take off, then set the top for WOT running with good smoke all the way. If you need to richen the top end, you may now need to go back and reset the bottom needle again, as the top end needle has a direct effect on the bottom end needle. So if you richen the top, you will need to lean the bottom.

Same applies to idle gap and bottom end needle. Because the low speed needle is directly attached to the throttle slide - if you increase the idle gap you will richen the bottom end, and if you decrease the idle gap you will lean the bottom end - so you need to make corresponding adjustments if you play with the idle for any reason. This is why it is so important to have the idle gap set at the .7mm factory setting before you try and tune the bottom end.

Sorry for the novel, but I hope this makes it all a little clearer

OOps, forgot to mention - set the high speed 3/4 of a turn in from flush and the low speed 1.25 turns in from flush. Set that idle gap and tune in from there. It shouldn't be too far off.

yeah thats what i meant

The average woman tune strikes again

Damn, now that's what I'm talkin bout! Thanks guys,
Mike

best roar approved pipe for the gx5r is what?

Ha ha ha - yeah, I'd actually forgotten about that one Flanno.
The old lean on top, fat bottomed with a wide gap sort of girl. Their everywhere. It's a good memory aid though - average girl = average tune
Jeez we are cruel. Of course we are all so perfect ourselves - NOT !!!!
Can't think where balding and love handles fit into the tuning guide though, so I am safe for the time being

I'm with ya on the handles but I don't need to worry about going bald just yet, thou the salt & pepper thing has started .

That's cool. When you get more salt than pepper like me, just get the No1 hair cut. They tell me the real short grey hair looks "distinguished"
I think that's the better half trying to be kind, but it works for me .

Is that your original 60+ litre MG66 in the truggy Flanno ? If so she has been a goodun eh.
I am still running # AUMG0031 - one of the originals, and it is going as strong as ever. Just purrs everytime I fire it up

Breaking in # AUMG00380 at present for our National Champs in October. It will be nice to have a fresh motor kept aside for the bigger events, with the tried and trusty original for club days and back up duties.

In the video ?

No, thats the new MG66X, only 3 ltrs old in that video, wich is only my 2nd engine since I joined the MM team, the one that lasted 60+ was the 1st .

And that only failed because it was still the original rod from day dot as you know we (MM) were doing an experiment .

With an engine usage rate of only 1 per year, I'm easy to sponsor .