35 rear and 40 front v2 setup = DIALED

all i need to be fully converted are all 4 arms,driveshafts,turnbuckles and rear shocks!.....if anybody has any of these that they can spare,i would appreciate it sooooo much!...i have $ so im not asking for donation....about these setups,will they still be the same for my truck!...as far as shock oil weight,shock location,camber link and whatnot?

Is anybody drilling the factory caps? Everybody is out of stock on the new ones and to be honest, $30 a vehicle just for the caps is rediculous if its just a hole to drill in them.

they dont charge anymore for eu caps then they do for the stock caps. but either drill them or buy them, they are n stock


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...hock-Cap-Set-2

I drill my caps but those black anodized ones look sweet.

I don't drill the cap and just use the foam. They work very well. If you drill the cap you better change the bladder every time you change oil. If that bladder goes then there goes allying shock oil.

Not drilling the cap or using a vented cap defeats the purpose of the mod/foam as air pressure will still be contained behind the bladder and rebound will still change. When rebound changes, ride height changes which is what the mod is trying to eliminate. You need the vent hole for the foam to work as it is supposed to.

Jammin,Why so much talk about the shock modd for buggy but little fan fair on the truggy? Seems like it would be the way to go on the truck as well!!!

i dont understand how this would affect how it handled tho, My old buggy handled like SH*T when i sent them to alan, My truggy is dialed but like i said i wont do it to my new buggy. i would think it would settle more? And the shock was pretty much new, alan gave me a new set of shocks when i had mine modded, he has great customer service btw

I'm loving them on the truggy. They really do make the shocks more consistent. They're recommended for both cars.

Air pressure behind the bladder changes as the air heats up. This makes rebound change and in turn ride height changes as well. Losi cars are very sensitive to ride height changes. When the shocks heat up in a long race without the vented caps, the ride height changes during the race. This will change the way the car drives from the beginning of the race compared to the end of the race. In other words the car isn't as consistent as it is with the vented cap and foam compensator. The whole goal of the vented setup is to provide more consistent handling. Not necessarily better handling, but more consistent handling, which to me is a huge win.

ill stick with non vented in the buggy : )

The foam presses on the bladder and that's what keeps it consistent. Hot air builds up behind the bladder and changes ride height?? Seriously the air would have to heat over 100 degrees? Where does this added heat come from? There's no heat source that is aimed at the shocks and they can't build that kind of heat just from being actuated?? So where does this heat come from?

The biggest problem imsee with the losi shocks is that the bladder does not stay in place you can see this when you go to rebuild them the bladder is up inside the cap. This causes the shock to become inconsistent. With the piece of foam between the bladder and cap it holds the bladder in place and thus the shock becomes consistent.

Friction. One main reason for going to big bore shocks was to keep the oil more consistent during long races. Oil changes temperature when running, so the air behind the bladder also changes temperature. Watch the Drake video. He explains the reasoning for the mod to begin with. The vent hole is NOT optional for the mod to work properly.

+ YouTube Video

Explanation at 0:50

I have seen the video and I understand the physics behind the theory but I still don't see that kinda heat being generated on a 30 min run. I'll definatly check it out. I'll run my truggy for 30 mins like in a main and then take the temp of the shock oil. Who knows I may be surprised. But I don't get the heat part.